Well, hi there
I started this rifle last christmas and haven't had time till now to continue it, it's coming along and I'm planning on finishing it this week.
It's for my portfolio and much of a test of my skills.
Modeled in Maya, both lp and hp.
Using Xoliul's viewport shader.
I would love some feedback on it so far, some areas are not started yet, the barrel, gas block, and the rest is pretty much WIP.
Thanks in advance, and thanks a lot Earthquake for helping me out during the normal map baking process.
Still have some issues with inverted lighting on mirrored UV's though.
/Peter
Replies
The spec isnt coming out right in these images but Ive linked to a turntable mov showing it better, hopefully the mov works.
Still in need of feedback regarding anything.
Ive been thinking about a few stuff while working on this one:
Are there any rules on how many materials per weapon? Currently I have 4 mtl's for this one, one for the barrel to get the anisotropy, one for the rest of the metal, one for the clip and one for the plastic.
I find it very hard to organize my geometry during the baking process. I find it that keying every mesh to an exploded state helps but is quite time consuming.
And mirroring, generally speaking: to be able to mirror UV's correctly, a little more geometry is needed i.e. a split through the mesh? Hopefully this image will show ya what Im trying to explain a little better:
6585 tri's
2048^2
Diffuse
Spec
Gloss
Normal maps:
http://www.pee-baa.com/other/wip/scar/wip_scar_turntable_01/wip_scar_turntable_01-Desktop.m4v
tataa!
since you're doing the tan version, spec and gloss will be everything here. if you don't already have the link to the best firearms reference pictures database here it is, just find the FN SCAR section and poke thru. http://www.pixagogo.com/DeicideNBF
the real gun is a pretty desaturated tan unlike the deep dark sandy color that most photos of it show, so the main thing with texturing the scar is distinguishing the metal section from the plastic bits. if you have a look at some of the pictures, you'll see that the plastic bits are a low gloss, more saturated tan, whereas the metal sections are darker, shinier, and more of a bronzey tone than a tan. don't be afraid to push the specular!
here you can see the tonal difference between the metal and the plastics:
and here you can see how desaturated these things are without crazy photo stuff making it more saturated:
so yeah, go back and get your materials blocked out first, really working on the specular and stuff, then start on some cool wear!
Racer445: Thanks for your input n tips homie, yo tutorials are the wickedest partna.
Yeah, that was the site I took all my ref images from, it's awesome. I've certainly have had some issues in making out what colors it exactly has.
I actually didn't go as far desaturating it as your last image shows, it just doesn't look as cool if you ask me
It does however look a lot more bad ass now compared to my last post.
Highpoly:
360 Turntable:
www.pee-baa.com/other/wip/scar/wip_scar_turntable_02/wip_scar_turntable_02-Desktop.m4v
Also I'm not sure you've done your high poly correctly; from what I can tell it doesn't actually have smoothed out edges which is kind of the point of making a high poly model in the first place.
About the hp, some details I decided to leave without smoothing, only applying a bevel to get a little higher edge detail, I thought that would be sufficient in some areas. A trick I learned from a teacher at uni. I don't know how much this cheat is used in the industry/frowned upon though
g0zzie: Why thank you good sir
I am calling this done now, I will still listen to any c&c anyone has though. Sure was a fun project got me itching to do another one.
Here's some screens: