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Clay sculpting?

t4paN
polycounter lvl 10
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t4paN polycounter lvl 10
Hello all, it's been a while since my last visit to polycount, but it's nice to be back. I see a few changes around and the main page is really picking up steam! (yeah, it's really been a while -_-)

So! I've been busy taking some rl-scultping classes to improve my self as an artist, mostly doing micro figure scultping, whatever the hell that means.

Actually let me show you -

2qimy50.jpg

This is the first piece I did with armature and stuff, it's pretty crap, but I guess it's a start. The smaller image in the bottom left side is just for reference, it's too blurry on its own.

So anyway, I know there's some dudes out there doing the same thing and I would like to ask you what materials you use, where do you buy them etc. For instance, at the school I'm going at we use this weird thingy which isn't exactly clay and you have to cool it before making a cast out of it in order to make copies of your sculpts.

My question is this: Has anyone here used Sculptie brand clay? Is it good? What other brands/materials are suitable for this sort of miniature sculpting?

Thanks in advance, I didn't put this thread on pimpin' cause it's mostly about information on the mats available and not about pimpin' my brown little dude.

Replies

  • iconoplast
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    iconoplast polycounter lvl 13
    Disclaimer: I haven't worked with this stuff in years, manufacturing/materials may have changed.

    Sculpey clay is decent but pretty hard to work with as far as polymer clays go -- you have to massage quite a lot to get it into a state where it's workable. This is true for all polymer clays to some extent, but I've always had the most trouble with Sculpey. Fimo is the brand I found easiest to work with overall. There are some different techniques required compared to what one does with regular clay, but you should be able to google that part. Most craft supply stores will have a decent selection so you can at least see what's available and pick up a small amount to see if you like working with it and which brand you prefer. Prices are probably drastically better online, however, so I wouldn't suggest buying much there.
  • BadgerBaiter
    I have used Super Sculpey in the past and really enjoyed using that to sculpt with. It is good for smaller sculpts, although if you have to do thick pieces of sculpture it is better to bake it in multiple layers - or use another material underneath to block it out and then go over it with Sculpey.
    If you go miniature sculpting , ie like Warhammer stuff, then the stuff to use is 'green stuff' a two part material you mix and leave to set. I had a go at it, but frankly its a bit too small for me to do anything decent with !!

    For larger sculpts I used Chavant, from memory it comes in different 'hardness' levels. I used a homemade clayoven to keep the chavant at a workable temperature.
  • t4paN
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    t4paN polycounter lvl 10
    Thanks for the replies, guise. Would any of you kind sirs happen to know of a good European online shop by any chance? Cause right now most shops I find are from the states, and goddamn the shipping/tax costs are extraordinary o_O
  • arshlevon
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    arshlevon polycounter lvl 18
    i am not too big of a fan of sculpy, but you can bake it and it gets hard. i like chavant, its a bid hard but i put it in the toaster over for a bit before working with it. if you want to know what sculpy is like, go buy a bunch of bubble gum, chew it up, then try and sculpt something out of it.
  • seth.
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    seth. polycounter lvl 14
    Hey t4paN.

    The first thing about sculpting in smaller scales is that the size of the finished object will probably dictate the material that you use. Anything from 1/9th above the I would use Chavant, usually medium. anything 1/9th or below then a polymer mix, sculpey, sculpey extra firm, and fimo. for anything 54mm and below you can start using the epoxy putties, Duro (green stuff) procreate, milliput etc.


    You can mix polymer and epoxy clay together , a ratio of about 60 epoxy to 40 polymer is nice, a little crumbly, and will give you about 4 hrs working time before it goes off, you can bake it after that but reduce the temperature that you would bake at by about 20 degree's celcius and reduce the time by about 5 mins.

    I have used most things at one time or another but my favourite is champagne fimo with a little sculpey extra firm thrown in for good measure. Its very nice to work with.

    if you are going to use polymers for the smaller scale stuff....75mm or below really, then I sugest priming your armature with epoxy putty first, I used to use old green for this, you put a thin layer of epoxy down and then layer polymer over the top and give it an hour or two for the epoxy to cure before sculpting over it.......not doing this can mean that you chase clay around a piece of wire for half an hour for it to just fall off :)

    if you decide that epoxy is for you then once mixed, give it about ten minutes to calm down before you wrk with it, and remember that you will need to keep going over any corners or sharp edges that you want as it cures, unlike polymers

    if you have any other questions about miniature sculpting then give me a shout and I will do my best to help innit :D

    oh and http://www.georgeweil.com/polymer-clay-pit.aspx for anything polymer and chavant,

    and http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/ for epoxies, wire and tools.
  • BadgerBaiter
    I get all of my sculpting/casting gear from

    http://www.tiranti.co.uk
  • iconoplast
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    iconoplast polycounter lvl 13
    arshlevon wrote: »
    if you want to know what sculpy is like, go buy a bunch of bubble gum, chew it up, then try and sculpt something out of it.
    That is a terrible analogy. It would be much easier to sculpt something out of bubble gum. :poly121:

    On a more serious note, seth's advice on mixing is quite sound. I have no idea why I didn't think to mention it.
  • BadgerBaiter
    Also, castilene wax is pretty bloody awesome too :D
  • t4paN
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    t4paN polycounter lvl 10
    Hey, thanks for all the infos, esp the online shops! Badger, is that wax what you put on your baked sculpts so you can add the miniscule details? What clay is it best used on?
  • Saman
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    Saman polycounter lvl 14
    I have used Super Sculpey in the past and really enjoyed using that to sculpt with. It is good for smaller sculpts, although if you have to do thick pieces of sculpture it is better to bake it in multiple layers - or use another material underneath to block it out and then go over it with Sculpey.
    I use super sculpey and for heavier and larger characters I start with a aluminium foil base(on top of the armature) and I then put sculpey on top of it. It's both cheaper that way and the maquette gets a lighter weight as well.
  • BadgerBaiter
    You can use Castilene from start to finish, without the need of an armature - although you can use one if you wish. You don't need to use it over any other material, although I am sure you could if you wished to.
    A friend of mine who used to work at McFarlane raved about it.

    Also, as its wax you can use it, mould it then heat the mould up to drain the wax out and run a cast, which is quite handy, especially if you don't want to worry about running multiple copies.
  • seth.
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    seth. polycounter lvl 14
    wax is a whole different beast to regular clay modelling, but can produce fantastic results once you get the hang of it. I have used it for one or two pieces just cos it was what the client wanted at the time, but I went back to the clay stuff quickly :D

    As badger baiter says you can build with wax without even an armature, its a right pain in the arse for me though, I prefer softer waxes which dont really hold up to being used to build up with, I used to rough out in chavant or plastaline, take an alginate mould from it, and pour moulten wax to get a rough that you can sharpen up and polish to final. But that's just the way I liked to work, there is no right way to do it really.

    The smallest that I have seen anyone work wax in is 54mm....even then I think that the guy was insane (clever yes...but totally insane :D ) which is worth bearing in mind if you want to work on miniature scales

    check out http://theclubhouse1.net/phpBB3/index.php its the home of a lot of garage kit sculptors and guys that work exclusivley in wax, it mioght give you a better idea of how its used etc.....
  • BadgerBaiter
    Goraaz wrote: »
    I use super sculpey and for heavier and larger characters I start with a aluminium foil base(on top of the armature) and I then put sculpey on top of it. It's both cheaper that way and the maquette gets a lighter weight as well.

    You are quite correct, I am sorry :/
    Has been a couple of years since I last sculpted - completely forgot about building it up over an alumunium foil base!!
  • ScoobyDoofus
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    ScoobyDoofus polycounter lvl 20
    I also use the Super Sculpy + foil & wire method. I find other clays to be way too messy for my tastes, though I rarely sculpt with traditional media any more. Hoping to be back into it though!
  • Saman
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    Saman polycounter lvl 14
    You are quite correct, I am sorry :/
    Has been a couple of years since I last sculpted - completely forgot about building it up over an alumunium foil base!!
    I wasn't trying to correct you or anything, just sharing my way of working. Here are the two tutorials I followed when I first started out;
    http://www.free3dtutorials.com/minotaur.php
    http://www.free3dtutorials.com/war-troll.php

    Edit: I would be a bit careful with the heat gun. I used one once on one of my figures and it started to tear the surface of it. When baking in an oven you get a nicer consistent bake on the whole thing.
  • BadgerBaiter
    I know fella ;) Just made me kick myself for forgetting such a thing ;)

    Also, whilst we are on handy hints and hot tools... don't fall asleep on a soldering iron. I woke up to find one melted to my forearm after being awake for 3 days and nights :p
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