Old Phone

Jessica Dinh

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Hey guys! Here I'm going to be revisiting my first model, this telephone, in hopes to turn it into a portfolio piece XD Here's a screenshot of where I left off last (3Ds Max/low poly...):



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I'm gonna turn this into a high poly first, then clean it up into a low. Here we go!

-Jessica

Jessica Dinh

Here's the high poly! Low poly coming soon. Critique welcome! ^_^



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adam

Drop a skylight in your scene. Enable shadows. Re-render and post that

XenoKratios

adam wrote: »

Drop a skylight in your scene. Enable shadows. Re-render and post that

Better yet, make a box, put the model in it, flip the faces, apply a whitish material (also to phone), drop 2 skyportals with custom color, one for the background and one as a main light, adjust environment settings and boom.

sex

Your model is very nice Jessica, I think the wire should be a rectangular box rather than a tringular, but it still looks good. You can also add some more loops to the dial part, make it a bit more refined.

You can also create quick cylinders as the buttons and one for the emblem in the middle, wont take long.

Oh and the phone part is floating on top of the wooden base, might wanna move that down a tad .

duxun

i agree with everything that has been said and yeah the telephone wire should be made high poly as well .

other than that keep it up.

Cheers...

haiddasalami

Look at the part where you pick up the phone in your ref and look at yours, The loops just need to be tighter in. Also the piece directly opposite the phone mouth area. There is a bulge. zyou have it in the first pic but not in the other ones. Not sure if you're going for perfect recreation but nice modeling.

Mark Dygert

Some really good advice.

I think you've got some poor ref, or atleast you should research the rotary part a little more. Using a modern phone that was dressed up to be an antique they are going to get some of the details wrong, if not by mistake on purpose because the function has changed.

For example the number of "buttons" on the phone doesn't match the number of "holes" or the proper configuration in the spin wheel of a rotary phone. Rotary phones typically had 0-9 (10 holes) you have 12, the two extra modern buttons?

The spin wheel would build up a small electrical charge, the more you turned it the higher the charge and based on that the phone company knew what number you where dialing. There was a gap between the last number and the finger stop because you need at least a min charge to send a number.

Another thing to consider is how the rotary phones worked, the dial wheel was a thin piece of metal that sat over the top of the base, the base doesn't move only the thin dial wheel spins.

Right now the holes are mushy and deep so you should probably separate the spin wheel properly and reconfigure the holes. You'll also need to add in the "finger catch" its a thin piece of crescent shaped metal that would stop you from over charging then number and miss dialing.

Check out some actual rotary phones to get some good dial wheel reference.
http://www.fast-autos.net/diecast-cars-models/diecast-car-image-large/antique-ktas-rotary-phone_190463139040.jpg
http://www.textually.org/textually/archives/images/set3/Contact_RotaryPhone.117114926_std.jpg
http://comps.fotosearch.com/comp/IMP/IMP182/close-up-rotary-phone_~1525R-80055.jpg

Mark Dygert

XenoKratios wrote: »

Oh and the phone part is floating on top of the wooden base, might wanna move that down a tad .

Technically that's a bell, or would of been if it wasn't a modern replica.

Snader

Any reason you made the buttons as holes instead of bumps?

lewist

Nice work so far – your model is pretty good looking already. Add some minor tweaks, such as more polygons to the wire and more edge definition to the dial and you will be in good shape. Other than that, definitely get some solid references of a true rotary dial phone and not just a push button remake if that’s the direction you want to take your model.

raul

looking good! I too think you could have used more reference. Are you redoing the low poly? could use some tweaking.

Keep it up the good work!

Mark Dygert

adam wrote: »

Drop a skylight in your scene. Enable shadows. Re-render and post that

Then put a strong blue light angled from the upper right to lower left, and a orange light in the opposite direction. Then add a little spec to your material and turn the gray to a darker color.

Jessica Dinh

Thanks for catching me guys! - I'll turbosmooth the wire, tighten the loops on the phone handle, and add that cushion on the earpiece. Also, I think it's unanimous that I should do some research before remodeling the dial XD

Mark, XenoKratios, adam - I appreciate the lighting tips, I'll be using them when I set up my final renders in UDK

Jessica Dinh

Hey big question. It's kindof confusing, but I'll do my best to explain myself: I'm modeling out the dial piece now, and to create the effect that I have a separate spin wheel, I deleted the polygons making up the bottom of each hole and instead modeled out a plane that floats a little beneath the spin wheel. When I light it, the holes should create a cast shadow effect on the plane and make it look like it is a separate piece from the whole dial. HOWEVER...

My initial intent was to make the dial holes normal information. Creating the holes using the above method will not allow me to do that - instead I will have to keep the holes as actual geometry in my low poly. Do you think it would be better if I just cap the bottoms of the holes? I think the spin wheel will still look like a separate piece because I have tightened up edge loops considerably and made the holes more shallow. Although the problem with this is that if I tighten the edge loops, normal information might come out bad, if at all! Dilemma...

What's everyone's opinion??

Here's some of my research, as well as a shot of the dial I recreated using the first method (still working on the finger-catch btw):



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Thanks!
Jessica Dinh

marq4porsche

It's coming along, but you have a lot of your details off. A lot of your bevels are too sharp while others can be sharpened. Really look at the big shapes before you go into detail. Really make sure that the shapes are accurate to your reference first then go into the details. I did a lil paintover with some edits. Hope it helps

Jessica Dinh

Awesome marq4porsche, I'll get on it!

Jessica Dinh

Ok, so here's an update! Tweaked a few things here and there. Also, after careful consideration I've decided the only way to make the spin dial appear accurate is to model out the holes as actual geometry. Low poly comin' up!



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Jessica Dinh

Here's the low poly - 4,440 tris. Critique welcome!

NOTE: There appear to be some ngons on the dial face, but there really are edges there lol. For some reason the lattice modifier wasn't reading all the edges...



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Thanks!
Jessica

ajr2764

Good looking model Jessica, simple and clean, look forward to seeing it textured.

Snader

More sides on the mouth and earpieces, they're jaggy. Sacrifice some loops of the horn to do so. I'd make the dialing ring with an alpha plane instead of actual geo for the holes.

Jessica Dinh

Thanks ajr2764!

Yeah, I agree with you on the mouth and earpieces Snader - I'll throw some more sides on them and take a few loops off the bell/horn thing, whatever that is.

As for the dialing ring . . . it's such a good idea, WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF ALPHA PLANES BEFORE?! T_T . . . now I'm really sad that I wasted all that time modeling those holes out for nothing lol.