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Diving in the Props-World

Greeting everyone! After reading this forum for a couple of days, I simply couldn't waste the time any longer, so decided to create an account.
Well, the main thing is that I'm inspired by the things that people are doing here. It would be nice to start as a kind of hobby, but I totally don't know the nuances of creating such a goodies, just some messy theoretical information.

So to start the dive I've found some photos of crappy TV-set, which I would model out:

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So, how you can see it's quite hard to do, or not hard, when you know how, so I wanna know how. I have some questions:
1. Is it ok to use floating geometry for the things like holes on the back and on the front of this thing, etc.? Or have I to cut them into the mesh?
2. Can I use many parts? Won't it be bad for performance?
3. Some parts are almost symmetrical like front of it, is there a way to do one side and then do a bake on an overlay plane, or something, where the screw is?

Here's the beginning, the wire:

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Smoothed (the background photo's distorted a bit):

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On the glass the edge loop could be seen, and there's four n-gons as well, so I need some topo-magic, I think?

Replies

  • Hypnoticat
    Guess, nobody seen this thread, but after big delay I'm here with some updates and the hope for feedback. :) I've spend some time today to model out the back and make the whole model to look like reference. I'm stuck with how to make the back side have those vent-holes as on photo, I believe, that floating geometry will help, but dunno how to make it right on a curvy surface...

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  • mr.sin
    I think it's a good start you got there. The edges look a little blocky though, so you might want to work on that.

    And yes, it's absolutely okay to model it in separate parts. Actually in some cases it gives you less polys than forcing everything into one closed mesh, so it's a good thing when it comes to performance.

    keep it up!
  • Hypnoticat
    Thanks, Mr.sin! I definitely should work on form without being afraid of slicing the parts now. I tried to make them have the same number of edges to be stitched together, but if the number of parts doesn't matter so much, as I thought... Well, I'll try to make it look better now.
  • Jungsik
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    Jungsik polycounter lvl 6
    looks prty good! although i would've loved to see all the little details on the back of that tv into your model :P
  • Hypnoticat
    I've spend so many days looking for a job, that I can't believe I'm writing here again now.
    Many things have changed, and I started another mesh. Don't mean, that the first one will be left unfinished, I'll try to make it next time, when my skills will grow a little. I fount it quite hard to do.

    Well, the next mesh is more then the just started one, I've nearly finished modeling, but there's a bad thing, that driving me mad - a place near the handle.

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    Low-poly:

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    The low-poly UVing looks fine to me (not to distorted), but there was a moment where I screwed up completely:
    I've read that when you deal with map baking you have to use different UV-shell for every smoothing group, but... The thing is I've already made UVs but forgot about smoothing groups... Guys is there any way to select polys by UV shell and then give each shell own smoothing group? :(
  • Cojax
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    Cojax polycounter lvl 10
    First off your highpoly has some major pinching going on next to that handle. Fix it. If you cant figure out how to fix, post wires of it (0 Sub-D base version).

    Second. I don't know where you heard you need a separate UV "shell" for each smoothing group. Thats insane. Use one Unwrap UVW modifier, auto smooth the model, make sure nothing wacky is going on. You can still modify smoothing group with a UVW modifier on the stack, so don't worry about your smoothing groups.

    I hope this answers your question, I may be misinterpreting something though lol.
  • Sean VanGorder
    Cojax - I think he's referring to the fact that you have to break seams on your UVs for each smoothing group in order to get a clean hard edge when baking normal maps.
  • Cojax
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    Cojax polycounter lvl 10
    Just detach as an element when you explode the model. Copy it first though so you don't have to put it back together. Or in your Projection Options check 'Hit Only Matching Material ID'(make sure HP has the correct corresponding ID). This is dependent upon the situation but I have never heard of using multiple UV shells for each and every ID. Seems like to much work to me, but hey if it works what the hell! lol

    Theirs a lot of ways to do this stuff. Use what ever you are comfortable with. I'm just pointing out other quicker methods imo.
  • Hypnoticat
    Cojax, you're right, forgot to post the wire of that part.

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    Well, I'm not sure about have I figured out what I wanna know, guess, that it's a great mistake I made - looks like I just don't get a thing. In my situation using "autosmooth" can cause happiness with result is it so?
  • Hypnoticat
    Thanks, Cojax, I hope to try it today.
  • Cojax
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    Cojax polycounter lvl 10
    You want to get rid of the edges that create that triangle. Your indents edges are so sharp though you would be better off just floating those indents. Save your self the trouble.
  • Hypnoticat
    Oh, it's so sad to have so little time for practice. Yesterday I made a cage and tried to bake a normal map, when it was ready I suddenly realized, that it's totally inedible, because of noise. Nothing helped, but today I've fount a mistake - it was just because of output file format (Targa, 16 bit, with 24 or 32 noise is gone for good). There some problems because of inaccurate cage (or low-poly, vay be?):

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    I see bad places, but there're some questions to torment you, if you don't mind... :-D
    Well, the main is some parts, specially the wheel, looks correct from some angle, but from other may look angular as hell... Is there a way to fix it?
    The second is, you know, so many people use for baking the tool called xNormal, instead of using built-in ones... Why so? It must have many advantages?
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