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Unwrapping (Pelt) problem

Hi,

I'm unwrapping a head using pelt mapping. Like usual, I cut a seam starting at the top of the head and down to the bottom of the back of the neck. I broke the ears off as separate UV shells, so they won't cause any problems. But for some reason, when I simulate the pelt, it crumples and doesn't look remotely how it should. Even after I relax it, it still doesn't look correct (especially with the seams at the mouth and eyes).

Here's a picture showing the result of pelting it and relaxing:

Unwrap_Delete_Me.jpg?t=1275317555

The strange thing is that while in the Pelt window the stretcher seems to be attaching to the mouth:

Unwrap_Delete_Me_2.jpg?t=1275316849

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give---I'm stumped on this one.

Thanks! :)

Replies

  • Piflik
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    Piflik polycounter lvl 12
    That hapens in max from time to time...easiest workaround would be to cap all the holes in the mesh, unwrap and delete the capping faces afterwards.
  • Mr. Bean
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    Piflik wrote: »
    That hapens in max from time to time...easiest workaround would be to cap all the holes in the mesh, unwrap and delete the capping faces afterwards.

    I'll give that a try, thanks :)
  • Neox
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    Neox godlike master sticky
    just don't pelt a face :P
  • Mark Dygert
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    Yea pelt works best on closed meshes. And Neox is right you'll get much better results from other unwrap methods especially for something like this. Probably just a shpere or cylinder map, then relax. Or planar map, break a few edges and relax.
  • Mr. Bean
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    Neox wrote: »
    just don't pelt a face :P

    That would explain why this hasn't been working :P

    Cylindrical worked perfectly, although for some reason it's still acting a little funny when it's relaxed, but I think I'll be fine so long as I'm careful.

    Piflik, I tried capping the holes but it still wouldn't work...however I think cylindrical will work fine, but thanks a lot for the suggestion.

    Thanks a lot everyone! :)
  • Mark Dygert
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    Yep, those opened edges will cause problems when relaxing the entire thing. It's probably a bit cleaner to relax a selection of verts or faces. Turning on soft select helps when relaxing chunks like that.
  • Neox
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    Neox godlike master sticky
    what i usually do is planar map the face (not the whole head and the mouth not included) from its averaged angle, which is pretty much frontal, then weld together the parallel points on mouth and eyes, relax the thing and cut the holes back oben and move the uvs far enough from each other so there is a bit of space for edge padding.
    I just close the mouth and eyes because relaxing sometimes can create overlaps which i avoid this way.
  • Mr. Bean
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    Neox wrote: »
    what i usually do is planar map the face (not the whole head and the mouth not included) from its averaged angle, which is pretty much frontal, then weld together the parallel points on mouth and eyes, relax the thing and cut the holes back oben and move the uvs far enough from each other so there is a bit of space for edge padding.
    I just close the mouth and eyes because relaxing sometimes can create overlaps which i avoid this way.

    Thanks very much for the insight on your workflow, Neox; I will definitely give that a try. It's always been so tempting for me to just planar the face since it gives such perfect checkers :)
    Neox wrote: »
    Yep, those opened edges will cause problems when relaxing the entire thing. It's probably a bit cleaner to relax a selection of verts or faces. Turning on soft select helps when relaxing chunks like that.

    Yeah, I was rather surprised when the UVs just crumpled after hitting the relax button. I remember you mentioning that soft selection tip from one of my previous threads, and I will definitely put that to use this time.

    I really want to thank you all for the help, I really do appreciate you taking the time to help out.

    Thanks!
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