Workshop #04 - kyle.rau
polycounter lvl 8
really like the rifle so i wanted to give this ago. haven't done enough hard surface modeling accept cars, so this should be fun.
first session WIPs
first session WIPs
Replies
fix:
You did it! How did you go about getting it to look right?
It's coming along real good, man. A few edges around the grip need to be softer, but besides that, its looking real clean
Oh yes, that rear padding is a pain. I still need to tweak it a lot. I basically blocked out the shape on a plane, some extruding, and then used 3 total bend deformers. I can send you the mesh if you want to look at it, let me know.
I'm getting some funky lighting issues....it seems that my rear rim light is shining through my geometry and hitting edges that I shouldn't be able to but there should be a fix somewhere.
crits are welcome, thanks!
I got the same thing. I came up with a workaround by just giving the initial sphere lots of divisions (I think I did 30x30). Then, I lined the axis up with the connecting lever and did a bit of extruding to form a realistic connection. The main idea is that I don't smooth the sphere, and the tris (at the axis) don't get distorted that way.
Don't forget that the chassis (green part, in ref) is a two-piece shell that is held together by those screws. There should be a small separation directly around the center. I see a line inside the main grip part, but no where else. *Tip: don't bother making this separation until you are sure that you won't have to mirror geo again.
So you just used a sphere and didn't smooth it? Was the sphere connected too the handle or no?
Thanks for the input man
http://www.screencast.com/t/MmY0Y2Vk
That works MUCH better! Thanks for the tip, Quack
The lever isn't attached, Kyle. It's just "screwed-in". Still easy to do with Quack's method too.
Can I ask where you got reference for this area? I can't find squat!
You are using Maya to create this correct?
Can I ask how you got such great renders out of Maya?
[You may have already answered this, and if so, I am sorry. ]
Yes I'm using maya. I used max for a certain part of the rear padding. But I wouldn't even count that. So yes. The renders are a simple 3 light setup. No special settings. I believe a couple of them I have shadows and raytracing but thats it. In Polygoblin's workshop thread (guy posting above you) he has a link that I thought I had bookmarked, or else I would hook you up with it and he has some good advice too for light setups. He used maya too
Crits are welcome.
I kind of combined 3 different scopes from the refs and another to get the one on there.
I'm about to start on the bipod. Figuring out which one i want to do.
Also, the grip patterns on the knobs and other parts of the scope: To model or not to model? When I do the low-poly, I could just do it in PS...probably look a lot better too....
The newest shots look really nice.
I can't wait to see the texturing on this.
What type of texturing are you going to go for, more realistic I am guessing?
And thank you!
I'm going for semi realistic...the gun itself is very plain being that it is made of that weird polymer plastic for the main body, which is just plain green. But I'm really not sure yet. Texturing isn't my strongest point, I'm hoping this will help me with my texturing as well as help me become for fond of texturing in general lol. What direction would you go?
I would even look at the way Valve does the textures for Team Fortress 2, just for the way they do the wear & tear of their textures. Obviously their texturing is more stylized but you can take the paint chips and metal wear away from looking at the way they do their textures.
But, I would start by just laying down flat metal colors on the model and then build up grime, dust, scratches, oil, and all the other wear & tear that the gun would go through.
Unless of course you want to make it more of a new gun and not have the scratches, but that is all up to you.
:]
What do you guys think of the renders? (I know this is off topic for this modeling workshop but I'm talking portfolio display..) I feel like the renders in my last post are better...but I don't know. The only way to render out my isolines (wireframe) in maya is a real pain, and I know max can do it really easily. I am currently learning max atm and I think I'm going to try and render in max eventually.
I accidently noticed some jaggy normals on the loading handle.I dont know if it's going to work , but you can try applying spherify to a box.
Great work though!
Hi to do best renders in max use Vray if u currently working with it and u got some knowledge try to experiment with render output with AO in psd...Try also color balance in vray frame buffer in color curve correction u can get really good looking outputs
here is link how to make perfect ao in vray
http://www.cgadvertising.com/media/Tutorials/AO/Ambient_Occlusion.pdf
Definitely having some normal map baking issues for the first time. The model contains a lot of long skinny triangles are that giving me pains. I originally made the low poly for an object space normal map, but I've been recently trying to go the tangent space way. This is the screen in maya with my normal map, but in marmoset/udk it looks awful. (maya viewport can display its own baked maps best you know :P )
To get tanget space maps to bake properly, I'm having to add many polys that don't define the silhouette and it is really just a waste. I've been doing some research about object space. Cryengine uses it, and many others. I feel like hard surface weapons can benefit from them more, especially if you're not overlaying details in the normal map. Because I am hoping to eventually put this in CryEngine, I'm deciding to go the object space route instead. The bakes I am getting are cleaner, with less polys, which is really important.
Tangent:
Object:
(Disregard the seams in the middle, I am just testing out one specific half of the body. And I am leaving out the bolts from the high poly in the bake.)
The only way I have been able to get rid of those nasty burnt skinny triangle errors is by adding many "supporting edges" to ease the smoothing. Which jacks the polycount up.
The best way to fix all if this (what I have done in the past) is split my uv's here:
and make those edges hard. Those would save polys and yield perfect bakes. Unfortunately this would give me a nice seam in texture painting and because this in a rounded single piece of plastic, that seam is going to look way out of place. If it was metal or something, that would be easy to cover up and would look realistic since metal pieces have seams when they meet.
Hope this helps anyone having the same issues I was having
got the tangent bakes to work well actually, so i'm sticking with those.
in marmo:
in marmo:
How do you like the Marmoset Engine?
I've got a few things into it so far but nothing too grand.
I'm loving Marmoset. Might have to buy a copy when my trial runs out.
yeah you guys marmo rules. worth the 50 bucks hands down! the new features like the auto texture updating and the fact that it saves out a screenie with an alpha channel mask for PS....that alone is worth 50 bucks i think.
I should really add a gloss map, the highlight on the body is way to sharp and shiny....when I turn it down in marmo it looks fine...but the metal parts look bad. Definitely think adding a gloss would help!
didn't even notice the strange artifact in that image above....happened when I downsized it.....oh well
Texture Maps can be viewed .HERE.
Oh, and fix that weird glowing metal too
It'd be nice if you write a tutorial or maybe a post sharing us your issues in the making of
Really nice model!
the rain's passed- West Lake is good.
A hundred grasses vie in beauty,
http://www.mmolive.com/
Confusion of butterflies, clamour of bees,
The clear day hurries the blossom to burst forth in the warmth.
Oars in lilies, a painted barge moving without haste.
I think I see a band of sprites
Light reflected in the ripples,
The high wind carries music over the broad water.