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WIP - heavy duty tires, crit needed

Spur
polycounter lvl 6
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Spur polycounter lvl 6
Hi guys, was wondering if I could get a quick crit on something. I've been working on Michelin XML tires used on military vehicles. I've finished the high poly and baked to low. Right now the low poly tire is sitting at 224 tris. Is that considered too high or do I need more geo to better suite the high res. I know if I throw 8 of these on a Stryker, the poly count will add up quick. Also, does anyone have any tips on eliminating texture seams between the tread and the sidewalls. After weathering, I usually have a seam that stands out like a sore thumb. I thought I read somewhere that I could import the tire into Zbrush and repair the seams in projection master?

I've gotten a little work done on the diffuse, but I'm not sure what to think about the side walls. These things get really dirty judging from the ref pics I've looked at, but something doesn't seem right. I'm a little happier with the direction the tread is going. Maybe adding a spec map and some dirt to the normal map would help a little.

High res
MichelinXML2.jpg

Low Poly
MichelinXMLOcc.jpg

MichelinXMLWF.jpg

Low Poly w/ diffuse

MichelinXML4.jpg
MichelinXML3.jpg

Replies

  • Will Faucher
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    Will Faucher polycounter lvl 12
    I know you're probably going for a very low poly version of this, but the center of the tire needs more depth in my opinion. It just seems really obvious that is is flat.
  • Rhinokey
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    Rhinokey polycounter lvl 18
    polycoutn seems fine to me for current gen vehicle tires, the material could use some tweakin tho, the rim and the tire look like they are made out of the same material, the bolts are not popping,, maybe a spec would help the normal map an high poly look nice tho.

    maybe try an distribute the edges of the low to line up better with those knobby bits on the tire texture tho,
    an the depth in your high poly is not showing in the normal map at all you will need to put that in the low to make that work out nearly as nice as your high poly,
    bust it up to 300 or 350 if needed to make it look better
  • Titus S
    I think you're going to have to make it a bit more higher poly than that tbh... You have these deep surfaces in your high poly and then you try translating it to the low (which is just a flat plane to where it relates) and it just looks flat and not interesting. All those lug nuts look to be on the same plane when in fact they're not looking at you're high.

    You can 2 things I guess...

    1, make it a bit higher poly

    2, hand paint your shadows in those wells to try and sell the depth some how (use a 70% hardness brush).
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    Thanks for the replies! That's really helped. So you think bumping it up to 350 or so wouldn't hurt even if I threw 8 of these on a Stryker, then you're looking at around 2800 tris just in wheels.

    @Rhinokey - I know what you are saying about the edges lining up with the knobs. I had a brain fart and should have made my cylinder 18 sides since there are 18 main knobs. I'll work on a spec map and see what I can come up with.

    @Titus & Prophecies - I think I'm definitely going to go for a higher poly version in addition to this one. Maybe this would be good for longer distances. Hmm hand painting shadows... not too sure how well I could pull that off as my texture painting ability blows.
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    Here's a little different version I've been working on. This go around I actually modeled some depth you guys were talking about. I made these these for props to place around a shop or something. So far just a rough normal, occlusion and alpha. These renders definitely made me decide to go to at least an 18 side cylinder.

    XML_Rim_1.jpg

    XML_Rim_2.jpg
  • Titus S
    Spur wrote: »
    Thanks for the replies! That's really helped. So you think bumping it up to 350 or so wouldn't hurt even if I threw 8 of these on a Stryker, then you're looking at around 2800 tris just in wheels.

    @Rhinokey - I know what you are saying about the edges lining up with the knobs. I had a brain fart and should have made my cylinder 18 sides since there are 18 main knobs. I'll work on a spec map and see what I can come up with.

    @Titus & Prophecies - I think I'm definitely going to go for a higher poly version in addition to this one. Maybe this would be good for longer distances. Hmm hand painting shadows... not too sure how well I could pull that off as my texture painting ability blows.

    http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/174/render5j.jpg

    http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2815/render2z.jpg

    I did this hand painted generator modular model piece a while ago, look at the pictures above. I wanted to show you how faking in depth by painting in the shadows can be quite convincing.

    Saw your edit, looks 10x better. But I think your treads are going to cause you problems. How do you plan on countering that flatness?
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    Titus S wrote: »
    Saw your edit, looks 10x better. But I think your treads are going to cause you problems. How do you plan on countering that flatness?

    Thanks! Honestly, I have no clue. Suggestions? The hand painted shadows you posted definitely are convincing. I think right now I'm going to bump the vehicle version of the tire up and include the center hub portion then go from there.
  • Titus S
    Spur wrote: »
    Thanks! Honestly, I have no clue. Suggestions? The hand painted shadows you posted definitely are convincing. I think right now I'm going to bump the vehicle version of the tire up and include the center hub portion then go from there.

    Now that I think about it, depending if this will be for an open wheel machine will depend on how much you have to sell the realism of the inner treads. If it is indeed open wheel you might have to hand paint the cracks. If the wheel well will be covering it then depending on the clearance from the wheel to the well will depend on how much you have to fix the inside treads.

    Honestly, I didn't focus too much on the outer treads but those look pretty decent as is and I wouldn't worry too much about it.

    Thanks about the generator :P I should also mention that I used no high->low baking on it either. So it is effective on cutting down time which I really needed haha.
  • Rhinokey
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    Rhinokey polycounter lvl 18
    your main prob with loss of depth is that normals only pick up angles,, your treads all come out at 90 degrees from the tire so theres no angle for the normal to catch, if on your high poly you would slightly taper these it should bake better, also if the engine suports it a paralax map using a height map bake should help.
  • Andreas
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    Andreas polycounter lvl 11
    Your normal map is hella warped, what do your UV's look like?
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    @Titus - they will all be open, no wheel wells to cover them at all.

    @Rhinokey- I see what you're saying. I'll give the treads a slight taper. These aren't being done for any particular engine but I think I'll stay away from the paralax map, that's a bit over my head.

    @Blenderhead- here's the UV layout, pretty much the same for both versions. I didn't focus on packing or anything as these will be going into another project.

    UV.jpg
  • Kewop Decam
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    Kewop Decam polycounter lvl 9
    there is crazy amount of wasted space in those UVs. Use all the space you can
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    there is crazy amount of wasted space in those UVs. Use all the space you can

    These will be going into a different UV map. Everything is preliminary until I get the tires worked out decently.
  • Cap Hotkill
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    Cap Hotkill polycounter lvl 13
    You could add more sides and make it look less Polygonal, try using 24 sides ;) I made a similar tire a long time ago.

    tireexample.png
  • Andreas
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    Andreas polycounter lvl 11
    Well...judging by the high-poly, there is major warping going on. You shouldn't mess too much with your UV's...just leave them as the are unwrapped, maybe relax them a little, that's it. The warping is caused by your pulling your UV's around post unwrap.
  • Zack Fowler
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    Zack Fowler polycounter lvl 11
    Seeing as your design repeats 18 times around the tire, an 18-sided cylinder is definitely the way to go.

    Blenderhead, I can't really think of a more delicate way to put this, but what are you talking about? Given the geometry he's using, his mockup UVs look fine. It's the projections and low-poly geometry that are causing issues here.
  • Andreas
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    Andreas polycounter lvl 11
    Sorry didn't see the curving in the tread on the high-poly till now.
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    Here's an update. A few people suggested I should bump it up to... ohhh bout tree fitty. Ok ok sorry, every time I hear 350 I think about Chef's parents lol. Anyway, I did bump the count up to 342 tris. I went from 16 sides to 18, modeled the center hub and put a slight taper on the tread in the high res version. I think this is working a little better.

    MichelinXML5.jpg

    MichelinXML6.jpg
  • Titus S
    I think it looks great. All that you have to do now is just paint in those grooves with some nice shadows :D
  • Spur
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    Spur polycounter lvl 6
    Titus S wrote: »
    I think it looks great. All that you have to do now is just paint in those grooves with some nice shadows :D

    Thanks! Here's another update. This time starting on the diffuse and spec. The spec between the rubber and the rim is pretty close. I thought on it for a while as to how much difference is there in spec between rubber and olive drab. So I gave the paint just a tad more than the rubber. I also included the dirt and grime in the spec which really toned things down even more. I tried keeping the dirt and grime in the grooves of the tread, with the tread itself being somewhat clean from pavement wear. I did scuff the actual tread with very low opacity light gray scratches and marks. Hopefully a little more tweaking and I can call this part done.

    XML7.jpg
  • Will Faucher
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    Will Faucher polycounter lvl 12
    Much, much better! I think the spec map on the metal rim needs work though. Right now it looks COMPLETELY encrusted in mud and rust. Some parts should be shiny, especially around the rim. Where there would be the most wear.
  • chrisradsby
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    chrisradsby polycounter lvl 15
    Looks really nice mate, I agree on the spec-map however, it's still some metal underneath that needs to reflect but other than that great work.
  • Godemper0r
    Yeah, the edges on the rims would definitely be scratched and metal worn. I'm not sure how you'd feel about it, but something that I saw on the Halo Reach Warthog, is they pushed in the verts between the treads so that the treads really stood out. It's hard to explain without a diagram, but if you look at that wart hog pic, you should be able to see what i mean, where you can see the shape of the tread in the outline.
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