[WiP] Grimm's Guns
polycounter lvl 8
Current
I've decided to take a break from my current environment work and work on some guns.
First up HK 416 D with accessories
(eventually)
First WiP Shown
I've already corrected and finished up the Gas Block since this wip collection was shot. The "off" looking indents on the barrel are actually cuts that are there so an armorer can replace the barrel, I've also fixed them since this wip as well.
I've left off the stock block-out, because I'm not sure if I want to use the standard stock or a 3rd party one. If anyone has any recommendations I'd love to see it.
The currently shown muzzle break is not standard. Its a Gemtech muzzle break and it still needs work.
Any C&C is appreciated:)
I've decided to take a break from my current environment work and work on some guns.
First up HK 416 D with accessories
(eventually)First WiP Shown
I've already corrected and finished up the Gas Block since this wip collection was shot. The "off" looking indents on the barrel are actually cuts that are there so an armorer can replace the barrel, I've also fixed them since this wip as well.
I've left off the stock block-out, because I'm not sure if I want to use the standard stock or a 3rd party one. If anyone has any recommendations I'd love to see it.
The currently shown muzzle break is not standard. Its a Gemtech muzzle break and it still needs work.
Any C&C is appreciated:)
Replies
Today I took a break from the core gun itself and did a PSG-1 mod grip for the AR-15 body, which is still in progress and not vert welded. Same with the lower.
I'm planning on throwing on a crap load of stuff.
Custom Mags, Custom Grip (shown), Double Scope, Tac Light, Grenade Launcher, Silencer (shown) Custom Muzzle Break.
The muzzle break & silencer are gemtech.
There are still a couple accuracy issues with the gas block, but they are be small and I really wanted to put that down for a bit.
The left side looks like I forgot to pull a part outwards a bit and misaligned a couple pieces. I forgot to move the back half of the hinge bolt after fixing the mag well's width.
All of the parts are still hollow as well, have yet to add thickness.
I'm not sure about the psg-1 grip; I think I might need to go back to it?
From another thread
Pretty much what I was saying; hence mostly the small details, and its not an actual powder weapon :thumbup: (didn't want to spam up dude's ak thread)
On the other hand I am a fan of CQB weapons so I would go with a custom stock like maybe a Vltor e-mod stock.
And then for the grip maybe do a Magpul MOE grip or a MIAD.
Sorry I am a magpul fanboy when it comes to ar15 parts lol. I do like the detail in your gas block and piston system. Keep it up ill be following.
By the length of the receiver I'm assuming you mean short as in length and not height? Either way I'll double check it both ways. I've been working zoomed in to get the creases/folds right so it wouldn't surprise me. The mag well was originally 1/2 the width it is now heh.
Height wise I still have 1/8-1/4"" to add, just been putting it off till I finished off the rest of the main look of the recievers.
I'll drop the Magpul grip on the cqb variant as well.
Completely rebuilt the upper--the original was poo supreme, and the rear half of the lower. Fixed some scale issues, though I still think the lower's body is a tad tall and the T raise seems a bit steep atm.
Did the 14.5" variant barrel and gas block though I've yet to add the vent/exhaust ports to either vers.
I started work on the carrier, and I'm getting a frustrating stretch at the forward right top edge just after the inset groove.
Everything is moving slow atm, as I started upgrading to 2011, but this hasn't been scrapped.
I show how to make the shaders I use for Sub-D modeling in maya in the capture I'm doing for the Workshop #4 vid that I'll release after I finish it.
Btw this isn't dead I'm just jumping around on multiple projects atm, and I don't want to spam P&P with trivial updates :thumbup:
I'm missing the inner lip of the firing chamber and the opening may be a bit to big, but I'll address that a little later on. Anyone who wants to take a crack at it and tell me whats wrong go ahead I'm sure I've missed something.
The stock is real, its manufactured by Command Arms Accessories :: as I'm to understand its a complete p.o.s. but it looks cool.
Good Dreams: Thats the point, you'll see what I mean once its all done.
Big update sometime next week probably, probably.
HP
I've missed a few screws I still need to float and I still have to go back and rework/refine the handle and a number of the edges need loosening, but I figured its done enough to pimp a bit.
this rhino, how is it diff from the mateba?
The Mateba was designed by the same guy, Emilio Ghisoni. Its the same in the fact that they both share the barrel at the 6 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'c like a standard revolver.
The primary differences would be that the Mateba is a semi-automatic weapon, slide action revolver. The entire upper assembly of the Mateba rests on a slide which when fired primes the hammer and rotates the cylinder. A solution looking for a problem is the best way I've heard it put. In essence it functions much like a glock.
The Mateba has several different barrel variations which allow for different ammo loads.
The Rhino however is a typical revolver in the sense of it is just that a revolver. However, the hammer is actually a cocking lever instead of a hammer. It is also powered by an assembly of mechanics in the handle. Its too new to say just how reliable it will be and give a decent expectation on rate of failure under various conditions. But its still a solid gun.
The reason for dropping the barrel to the 6 o'c position from the 12 is so that the recoil from firing will be driven back into the shooters forearm instead of into the wrist. Much like the Kriss its intention is to reduce recoil in follow up shots.
Video of someone going over the Mateba's action
[ame]
Pic of the Rhino's internals.
also what are you planning to normal map, like the little groove boxes around the trigger? Also the screws, normal them too?
Test bake and wires.
Anyone have any suggestions for the bake low poly I'm all ears. My edges are too tight imo in various places, but I figured I'd see what feedback the pc peeps would give.
I'm going to have to exaggerate some of the details, as I don't have the pixel res to support some of them.
To answer your questions n88tr:
Polycount I was aiming for was 10k, using Brink as a poly/map guide.
It came in at 9800~ tris.
As for the groove detail, Photoshop most likely, possibly float them depending on how well the photoshop results turn out.
Picked this back up a couple days ago. Started it last year as a prop for a character artist 'round here. But that project got dropped, and so this laid dormant.
Anyway, here it is.
I am working on the MP7 right now, I can imagine what kind of a nightmare it would be to unwrap this thing...
Though I do agree its probably too strong. When I go back over it, I'll see what I can do about toning it down, and probably reducing the severity/# a bit.
I didn't render with ddo's previewer / shader or the version of marmoset that is no a part of it. I keep that stuff turned off.
I have Marmoset Tbag proper, and pretty much always use it. It's hard to beat its ease of use and feature-set at the moment. In the future, who knows maybe it'll change, but for now.
It's my one and only
Even if it occasionally freaks out over maya's fbx files
Unwrapping it, isn't really so bad. It was a little tedious, but thats uvs in general. Its all just planar projects and cylindrical unwraps; I tend to keep the entire process pretty basic.
Honestly the most annoying and nightmarish part is packing everything u.u Its always a balancing act between logical placement, smart grouping, and not wasting a f-ton of space. As you can see the packing leaves something to be desired on this as well.
And more stuff:
I ended up having to rework most of the geo on the LP, because it just had a ton of unneeded crap, and a re-uv. Apparently, I also had no concept of texel densities 2 years ago :poly127: so it ended up getting completely repacked.
and just for fun, some 360's
[vv]68513879[/vv][vv]68514980[/vv]
dunno how to embed self hosted videos, or if you even can :poly122:
There still a couple seams I need to fix, but unless anyone urges me to do it now, its going to wait a couple days while I rest.
And... the spin (tried animating it, but couldn't get the marmo plugin to work)
So I had some work I was cleared to show (some) and a personal piece or two I did before I went on my whole art test//interview/relocation with Sledgehammer back around the beginning of 2014. Once that whirlwind started I lost track and didn't bother to update the thread. Now that I've settled in Foster City for a couple months, I figured its time to become a little more active on Polycount again.
TLDR: Old work - Personal/Professional (m16/druga), Got Jerb, Look at pikturs!
HP of a Druganov I did. Client needed full interior detail, screws + threads, everything. There is a LP and an animation of operation I did, but that's not on the display list. So we shall settle for HP renders with x-ray.
FPS - left the scope off on the right render so the detail on the body could be seen.
This took about 160 hours from start to finish HP -> LP -> UVS -> Bake -> Texture -> Rig -> Animation.
M16 - Wanted to try my hand at a lower Tri Count. My previous works were geared towards where things have been headed, and the freelance work I was doing the LP's, were pretty high really.
Anyway, 'nough talkin':
HP:
LP:
The edges on the Druganov are a little tight, but they baked fine and for the distance its meant to be viewed at there, were no problems at all once tested.
The M16, Marmoset did some weird FoV stretching on a couple of the renders, and I have no idea why. Oh well, not worried about it. When I update my site, maybe, but for now... meh.
Both are rendered in Marmo 2.0 - The m16 (as flats show, was traditional maps, vs PBR, even tho the capability was there.)
I have some plans for something in the future, PBR, 'cause bandwagon. :thumbup:
Edit: Also, no dDo on the m16. I had decided I had been using it too often, so I went old school and did it by hand.