Ok, this question is in regards to a little more advanced texture painting techniques. Let's say you have some random pieces of wood, such as this:
And your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to go back over this wood and make it look like it has a worn painted look to it.
Now, we are all familiar with the old "use old painted wood in the first place, jackass" technique, as well as using a basic color overlay in PS and then using some grungy brushes to scratch some of the color off, but that doesn't always do the trick.
Every time I do a base colors/layer styles/grungy brushes in PS I wind up with something that looks like I used a grungy brush in PS, and NOT like it was originally painted.
What sort of tricks do you guys do to paint your wood to give it that authentic paint look? I'm working on a ship that has a lot of worn down colors, but I want it to look like it was originally painted a specific way, but not so cheesy that it looks like I bucket painted the thing.
Any ideas on how you guys handle this sort of thing would be appreciated!
Replies
That's how I always approach this type of thing.
Can you show a sample of the results you usually get?
Alex
At any rate, i'll take those ideas to mind. Thanks for the tips!
You could also overlay flaking paint textures.
Layer masks are another area of PS I don't know much about. Looks I got more research to do ;P
Here's where my ship is at now, in case you are curious.
I've got a few more weeks to go till I graduate, and I wouldn't mind having it done by then, but I'm not stressing. It will be done soon enough :P
Without it its really shitting my fakey paint look. Once I get some more color passes done on this guy and start doing the color details on the sides ill post it up and see what you guys think. Thanks for all the suggestions so far!
http://www.cgtextures.com/tutorials/blendif/tut_blendif.html
Ive always completely over looked that part of the layer blending options..
- Don't forget old objects often get coated with paint a few times. So layering paint and creating little areas where the lower levels of paint where chipped and painted over with the higher levels of paint.
Suggestions to include brush strokes if you need em:
- Set your color layer to a SLIGHT bevel/emboss, pick the erase tool and set it to use a hair brush, turn the opacity way down 10%-ish, and paint in some brush strokes.
- On a new blank layer, paint a few shadowy strokes in a darker color using the hair brush. Duplicate that layer invert it, and nudge it up and over 2px.
Most of what I suggested was just shadow work and can be painted into a normal map, or turned into a pattern and applied to just about any surface you need it.
PSD Here
Have you checked out this method?
http://www.cgtextures.com/tutorials/blendif/tut_blendif.html
Ive always completely over looked that part of the layer blending options..
[/ QUOTE ]
Stonking tutorial.
Make an overlay layer above your wood base and pick a color then with you paint brush set to all layers and about an 80 tolerance click somewhere on the image this will flood fill you a layer using the tolerance of the wood to break up the pattern. Then I make a new layer lower the tolerance and paint again, (usually hide the previously painted so it won't use that for the tolerance) usually I set this one to normal and just lower the opacity a bit,
Then I repeat the last step with a third layer. Sometimes I pick slightly different shades to fade the paint out.
Sometimes the paint bucket will need a small blur because the edges seem pixeled.
Extra stuff: sometimes I add a layer effects to do a 1 pixel drop shadow or a small inner glow to make the chips stand out,
Also sometimes I add a layer mask and use the paint bucket to fill in some grey splotches to make the paint more faded.
Its just personal preference and how you like it
Have you checked out this method?
http://www.cgtextures.com/tutorials/blendif/tut_blendif.html
Ive always completely over looked that part of the layer blending options..
[/ QUOTE ] Never noticed that technique.. thanks for the link.
Thicken some paint by either leaving it out or use a thickening agent (yes real paint). Used a thick haired brush (not a hair brush). After it is plenty thick paint a stroke on a piece of paper, let it dry. Scan it in, make a few different tiles out of it and use it as an overlay.
So many good methods in this thread Thanks a bunch guys!
I find that making a copy of the original wood, doing an emboss filter on it, and setting it to overlay mode on the top of the stack helps with keeping the definition in the wood, and gives that paint seeping into the cracks look a bit.