LOW-POLY ART
polycounter lvl 19
This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Replies
Awkward the way this hose thing is right now, i might fix both the model/texture and the rig later.
http://dadako.com/blog/whats-new-in-ibath-1-2
Dig up the original thread on here for tech details.
But the most important thing to me is that the whole post makes me sure about this idea of mine: small game != small work. No matter how an App/game is simple, the work behind is never short.
In the place where I live, nobody seems to understand this concept. I'm actually developing solo an iOS game about beach marbles, and since "beach marbles" is a simple game, they all think it's simple and fast to create, so they feel free to say that I'm failing at coding it because I'm slow. But honestly, I can't expect much more than this in my country.
I would love to see what would they do in my shoes, really. They'd ragequit the first day, maybe. :shifty:
yeah interesting, we are now finding that in our latest mobile games we have extra geometry or shaders we turn on on the higher powered devices(4s, ipad2) to make it look more awesome. Always a little sad when the lower end devices dont look quite as cool but hey thats the hardware I guess.
This is my D&D character, Fizzgig the half-elf druid, hello ladies etc.
He's currently 612 tris, 256x256 texure.
Couple questions. I'm finding it quite hard to make an asymmetrical character. A main part of my workflow recently has involved creating half a model and then mirroring geometry. In terms of the UV process do I literally just unwrap a full model rather than half, and get down to work?
Also any feedback regarding the texture would be ace, I find I sometimes fall between the line of cel style shading and pixelart shading and end up with an inconsistent look.
Cheers
You can just uv half, mirror it. Then select the polys you don't want mirrored, and mirror their uv's, move them elsewhere for painting. It's easier to only uv half and just flip the uvs then it is to uv the entire mesh.
I think maybe you need to look at pixel density. Add a checkerboard pattern to your model and try to adjust the uv's so all the checkers are the same size.
The pixels on his buttons are really small, yet the ones in his eyes are really large.
Still pretty green with low-poly stuff but I'm modelling characters for a Unity/iOS game. Here's the first couple I've finished;
Dunk - one of the main characters - ~ 1160 tris, 512 texture
Pookernook - first of the enemies ~ 306 tris, 256 texture
I have about 1-2 days to pump out each one from start to finish, so I feel like I'm at least learning a lot each time I get one done... got a ton of these to get through
Anyways, good to be here!
1000 tris
1 256x256 diffuse
Modeled & Textured in Silo3d
RE7?
Played around with pixel art. Fun.
Thanks very much dude, that is some super useful feedback!
Think I'll have to do some playing around to nail the asymettrical stuff, all feels very abstract.
Going to force myself to rig and animate this guy a bit before I do anymore models, been putting it off again and again. I've seen some people on here (most likely pro 3D artists I expect) mention they've modelled, textured, rigged and sometimes animated a character in a few hours. Is there a quick process or walkthrough anyone can link me to for basic rigging and animating in Maya, I mean basic!
I agree with baddcogand if you want to do pixelart kind of textures, the pixel density should be pretty much the same over the whole model. Take into account that it's also a common practice when you're not going for a pixelly look, to give more texture space to bigger and most important parts of the model, specially the face.
About doing it all in a few hours: the minimum it takes to me (from zero) is about eight or ten hours. But sometimes people make basic template models and then add all the details to make different characters in one style to get a greater performance.
don't know about rigging in maya, but for animation, 2d animation books like preston blair's are a great reference.
You can see his whole body is mirrored, except the wound on one side of his chest. I just grabbed that tri in the UV tool and dragged it to the side. Then in photoshop I did the same with the texture, then painted the wound on top.
I suppose a very good artist could knock out a simple character in a few hours. Personally I can knock out a decent mesh in an hour or two (low poly) and maybe even uv it. But texturing something simple takes me at least several more hours. Simple rig and anim maybe a few more.
http://tinypic.com/r/2mcw2o9/5
http://tinypic.com/r/f1fig6/5
http://tinypic.com/r/729j75/5
My goal for this environment was to make it usable for a nintendo 3ds game, though I am unsure of the poly/ tri limits of environment assets within the system. This particular environment is already 2,340 tris and I was hoping someone could suggest ways of cutting that down (if I even need to). I think the mushrooms are taking up a lot more polys than need be, but let me know what you guys think.
They're SUPER helpful, and are very similar to a process I learned in college on 3D Studio Max.
I've been working on this all weekend and in the evenings. It's taken me a LONG time to build my rig, however through the whole thing I was taking notes. I remember taking half a day to rig up the leg for the first time (and take notes) then when I went to go do the opposite side it took all of five minutes. The biggest thing for speed is just practice and repetition. Do something, then do it again, you'll be amazed how much quicker you are just the second time around.
For ANIMATION: I bought this book [ame="http://www.amazon.com/How-Cheat-Maya-2012-Techniques/dp/0240816986"]Amazon.com: How to Cheat in Maya 2012: Tools and Techniques for Character Animation (9780240816982): Eric Luhta, Kenny Roy: Books[/ame] and I love love love it. It was a huge help in getting me up and running learning how to use the interface, etc.
Cheers for the comments, Tigerfeet!
We were kind of restrained by an incredibly low bone count (8 per small enemy, or something) so we made the potentially ass decision to sacrifice being able to bend them in favour of articulation elsewhere. 'Tis a shame, though. It's one of those things where I learned after the fact that I probably should have tried to model a bit of curve into it instead...
Even if it is you should be able to turn off the bones and do a quick bend. Or even a quick re-rig.
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:poly115: how did I NOT think of that!? Thank you!
Looks awesome. You made this editor yourself?
Thanks, yes together with a friend
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and my ref:
Yeah, it's marceline's house from Adventure time.
Here's a bunch of screens:
Naw, it's a B.E.2. Close though. The RE8 was basically the same airframe with a new engine and fixed gunner/pilot positions, among some other little changes.
The b.e.2 is complete crap. Gunner sits in front, under the wing, with no synchroniser. So his fire is limited by the prop in front, the wing above, the pilot to the rear, the plane itself below, and the interwing struts on the left and right. He can basically only fire on a limited upward angle out the back. Needless to say, hundreds and hundreds of these things were destroyed in flight by albatros and such.
Looking good Mr! Keep on it, don't give in
I would love some feedback or advice!
Here is my Concept and Orthographic
And this is what I have so far.
(It's been a while since I've posted images on a forum, I hope it works!)
I think you need to cut three or so loops from the legs. Personally I'd also add 1 extra side to the upper leg, because it's thicker than the rest of the limb.
looking very awsome
Now these are some minor details: the nose could be pointing a bit more upwards and maybe putting an extra quad or tri to the chin would make it a little less pointy. finally, the shoulder is pointing too low. Also the neck could be longer (pushing the clavicle down, would fix it).
I think the design is pretty nice, and your model is looking cool. just check if those suggestions make sense.
Made a hand after watching a youtube tutorial. 720 tris
Looks pretty good I think, Ive never tried making a hand before. The topology wont work for animation so its kinda useless.
Replaced my character model with a proper one. Got tired with the blockout one.
Gosh that is cute, osman.
It kind of does, Delko. Not every bone needs to have anything assigned (or something assigned at both ends). But you probably actually already knew that :B
Assign the tip of the finger+joint verts to the outermost finger bone (distal phalanx idunno), assign the innermost finger section+joint to the innermost bone. Don't assign the middle part of the finger to the middle bone (well ok, you have one ring there you need to assign, but if it was simpler)... the middle section is now the deformation zone between the other two, and there is no blending - it animates alright.
It's probably common knowledge, but it was a bit of a revelation to me, honestly.
Keep up the awesomeness guys.
no man that's totally off ...
http://itunes.apple.com/app/ibath/id486196001?mt=8
now heaps faster and new camera views:
Thanks for all the advice, I'm still applying some of it to the model. I have a ways to go yet but I've got time!
(I've got work in an hour and all I wanna do is work on my model!