Greetings all. I am here pimping software to create models rather than models themselves. Apologies if this is considered poor taste... Here's the rundown.
Pictomod3D Version 1.0 is now available for download from styxar.com
This software is simple to use and allows you to create 3D models from photographes or images.
Click here to visit the Pictomod3D site and download the free demo.(Click here to visit the Pictomod3D alternative download site.)
Quickly create textured models from scratch, increase the number of 3D models you can fabricate. Integrates easily into your mesh sculpting process. Pictomod3D is perfect for rapid prototyping or finished 3D models.
With this tool you can create a library of new objects or build new last minute requirements fast. Much simpler and more efficient than starting a fresh model from nothing. Use the ready to go meshes and textures directly or as great prototypes to kickstart the creative process.
Fast, affordable and simple to learn, the free demo download comes with a quick-start tutorial to get you up and running in minutes.
Setting up a project takes minimal effort, little more than selecting the background mask, painting in a little extra where needed, and then your 3D model is ready to output.
Use either images of a rotated object or even a few images from arbitrary angles to create textured 3D meshes in Wavefront OBJ or DirectX X file format. Includes a utility to easily extracted images from AVI and MPEG movies.
Create high or low polygon models, up to 128 000 polygons per model.
[Edit: Here's the raptor again, this time with 50 000 polygons.]
[Edit: And a cow, no texture, 20 000 polygons]
For more information visit styxar.com
Click here to visit the Pictomod3D site and download the free demo.(Click here to visit the Pictomod3D alternative download site.)
Hope you find the software interesting and useful.
Adios,
styxar.
Replies
kinda interesting to see the old method of making a *real* model and then scanning it in take a new twist.
The textures may or may not be suitable depending on the use of the model. However they are useful maps on which to paint new textures. I have left the output textures as they are in the above images so people can see what they have to work with.
So for instance, if the model was meant for a game, you would perhaps output it at 10000 polygons, modify it as needed for the game, polygon reduce it with traditional algorithms to 2000 polygons and then repaint the existing texture at higher resolution, its already mapped to the mesh.
Alternatively, if you just need a miscellaneous object quickly for a computer animation, you could use a model directly.
http://www.anything3d.com/model-portfolio_session/index.php3
edit: guess that wouldn't work too well since there is perspective in these shots so their feet aren't perfectly flat on the ground.
In fact, if the images are of symmetrical objects this extra information allows better models from less images. Even if the images are not ideal, you can get some interesting models.
I should give that recent US hostage dude a try :P
Cheap: Forget it. I doubt it'd work on cartoons, either because those are low on color information and therefore recognizeable shapes. And they never match up.
The original raptor model that image is based on is only 1.5 inches high and itself has no hips either, so the model is fairly accurate.
The polygon reduction system used seeks to avoid producing long, thin triangles that are common to other methods, so that all the triangles are roughly the same size and shape, making arbitrary bending and stretching in external software easier and won't distort other parts of the model. Once you have the final shape and animation you want, producing long, thin triangle in further external polygon reduction is not a problem.
[Edit: Sorry, missed the "fill" part. You can paint using one of three brush sizes, and set certain ranges of color as masks.]
Regarding making models from cartoons or sprites, the images need to be of the subject in the same pose. So if you had a front view, side view and angle view where all the lines between eye level, hand level etc match up then you can make a model.
[Edit: Moved image to first post.]
You may find the tutorial in the help file useful as a demonstration of this. Following the tutorial, and a quick glance through the pictures in the help file, should set you up for better scanning.
With rotated images, some care has to be taken with the consistency across images too. The center of rotation should not change from image to image (the center of rotation is not necessarily the center of the model). Also an even speed of rotation is required. If you are rotating the models by hand you should be aware of this.
You can build a model from just 8 images (actually less, but 8 or 16 is practical) where you rotate the images yourself. Make sure to keep the center of rotation the same and move it in 8 (or 16) even steps.