Theres a lot going on in that sculpt, tentacles, feathers, wings, legs and a cyclops head. The light setup is really nice and the marble material is well made.
I saw the kickstarter while trying to figure out what a icarian harpy was, looks interesting and its cool to actually print the model. How hard/easy is it to adjust the model for 3d printing? Is it something you think a lot about while sculpting or do you change what needs changing when the sculpt is complete?
Thanks guys! I was so busy for the last 2 months, I didn't even notice my art was added to the Polycount banner showcase That's awesome! It's a pity I missed it.
@CybranM Thanks! It was the first time I tried to make my custom marble material in Keyshot ^^
Usually when you work on characters for 3D printing, you have to think a lot about the final scale of the model, check how thick different parts will be after printing, etc. That's why usually such models have very exaggerated proportions, heads, guns, are much bigger than normally. Different printers and then different casting methods can work with different minimal thinckness of the objects. For example arms and hands of the Harpy will be casted in metal (so they won't break), while the rest of the model will be resin.
When it comes to Harpy and other models from this projects (you can see some more sculptures on my artstation, link in the first post), the proportions are much more realistic. Final print is pretty big and the printers and casting methods let us work with such models.
But generally, you want to do some sanity checks from time to time when working on such model. It usually means grabbing transpose line from time to time, setting proper units (for example using sculpture base diameter as a reference, because you usually know it's dimensions) and measuring
And after finishing the model, you need to double check if there are no holes in the mesh, nor small, problematic cavities. In this models a lot of cavities vere firstly present between the feathures, so I had to spend some time fixing them.
And also, having good art director, who can guide you and take a fresh look on the model is a very important thing : D
The final part is to cut the model in parts with proper pins - sockets system. But I didn't do it in this model.
Thanks for the detailed response! I dont know how involved you are in the actual making of the physical prints but do you print the hands and such in plastic first and make molds out of them? Is there any problem with making the colours the same for the metal and plastic or is it covered in the same type of primer?
@CybranM I don't work directly with printers. But the workflow there looks like you described. Firstly, there are some test prints, if there are any problems with models, I fix it. WHen everything is ok, master print is made and it's a base for the molds. Unfortunately, I have no idea about problems with color differences between metal and other materials.
Here, you can also see how the master print of Harpy looks like (images comes from one of Eschaton Kickstarter updates):
Replies
The light setup is really nice and the marble material is well made.
I saw the kickstarter while trying to figure out what a icarian harpy was, looks interesting and its cool to actually print the model.
How hard/easy is it to adjust the model for 3d printing? Is it something you think a lot about while sculpting or do you change what needs changing when the sculpt is complete?
@CybranM
Thanks! It was the first time I tried to make my custom marble material in Keyshot ^^
Usually when you work on characters for 3D printing, you have to think a lot about the final scale of the model, check how thick different parts will be after printing, etc. That's why usually such models have very exaggerated proportions, heads, guns, are much bigger than normally. Different printers and then different casting methods can work with different minimal thinckness of the objects. For example arms and hands of the Harpy will be casted in metal (so they won't break), while the rest of the model will be resin.
When it comes to Harpy and other models from this projects (you can see some more sculptures on my artstation, link in the first post), the proportions are much more realistic. Final print is pretty big and the printers and casting methods let us work with such models.
But generally, you want to do some sanity checks from time to time when working on such model. It usually means grabbing transpose line from time to time, setting proper units (for example using sculpture base diameter as a reference, because you usually know it's dimensions) and measuring
And after finishing the model, you need to double check if there are no holes in the mesh, nor small, problematic cavities. In this models a lot of cavities vere firstly present between the feathures, so I had to spend some time fixing them.
And also, having good art director, who can guide you and take a fresh look on the model is a very important thing : D
The final part is to cut the model in parts with proper pins - sockets system. But I didn't do it in this model.
I dont know how involved you are in the actual making of the physical prints but do you print the hands and such in plastic first and make molds out of them?
Is there any problem with making the colours the same for the metal and plastic or is it covered in the same type of primer?
I don't work directly with printers. But the workflow there looks like you described. Firstly, there are some test prints, if there are any problems with models, I fix it. WHen everything is ok, master print is made and it's a base for the molds.
Unfortunately, I have no idea about problems with color differences between metal and other materials.
Here, you can also see how the master print of Harpy looks like (images comes from one of Eschaton Kickstarter updates):
Having a hand in the picture helps define the scale pretty well (even though it says how tall they are on the website).