Home Chivalry: Medieval Warfare

Footman Set for Agatha Maa

polycounter lvl 4
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zombojoe polycounter lvl 4
Its been awhile since I made chivalry items, here's my latest work. Made with 3ds max, Quixel 2.0.
Workshop Link (More images) http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=579605216

Heater Shield is 2522 Triangles 
Shortsword is 4443 Triangles 
Helmet is 1488 Triangles


  • JO420
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    JO420 polycounter lvl 14
    Hey Zombojoe, happy to see you making more 3d work, especially a shield which the game could have a few more of. I think  its a good idea for a set but it could use some tweaks to improve the final appearance.

    The thing I see right off the bat is your base metal color, as far as I can see it is just one color.  It could use some variation on the surface and some imperfection. It makes the surface more interesting and a slight wear from battle gives the weapon a bit of visual history. Not over the top mind you, subtle and even across the surface. The pommel on this weapon gives you an idea of what to shoot for. This look can be achieved through the diffuse and normal.

    Then overall it could also use ambient occlusion ,or shadows on the model. the subtle baked shadows will help separate the features of the blade,helmet and shield. For the most part I use xnormal to bake these features, but I also use photoshop to add/strengthen shadows for small things like bolts and pins. At a distance, your sword is the best place where shadows baked on will help the most. From afar all of the details of your sword blend together and it becomes difficult to see whats what.

    Then the specular  you have doesn't do much for the metal surface. When I make a specular, I try to add details to the surface of the metal which will show when the model is rotated on camera. When the specular is a flat, color with not surface variety it tends to give the model a plastic like look. I also use the specular to draw attention to the detail on a model, I hand paint scratches and scuffs on places where the blade has made impact and on edges that are likely to bump other surfaces.  Your shield for example I would leave the specular real dark on the painted bit and exaggerate the metal on the scratches, so when the shield rotates in game you can see the scratches more.

    Lastly but its something more to consider if you make something else,is the sizes of your details in the model. I have found when it comes to details such as bolts,pins or breathing holes. A little exaggeration in the size helps preserve the details a little bit better and makes them easier to see. Aside from weapons, most items in game will you never get in close and steady enough to see them clearly. At distances if the detail on an item is too small,it sorts compresses into noise. The first model I made was a warhammer, and I decided to add acid etched patterns but I made it to scale. Once in game I realized it did not hold up well. so by the time I made other items with acid etching, i increased the size and it works better at different distances.

    Phew I hope it isnt too much to read!

    Those sort of tweaks can really bring this set over the top.

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