Tell me everything about 3D Printing
polycounter lvl 7
Lets talk about 3D Printing! 
Information thread galore.
Going to start compiling the information up top in my free time.
A lot of this is butchered for now, I will find more resources and references to support the information posted up.
3D Printers
Selecting a printer http://www.makershed.com/products/make-magazine-volume-42
Calibrate your printer! [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/150mm-ELECTRONIC-DIGITAL-CALIPERS-VERNIER/dp/B007K7F04C/"]150mm ELECTRONIC DIGITAL CALIPERS VERNIER WITH LCD INC: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics[/ame]
Good Printer Practices
"Enclosing your printer will also help with warping and delaminating. We added some perspex panels to the older Makerbot we had for a while to help keep the heat in and stop the air conditioning from messing things up. It's less of an issue on the newer ones but probably still worth considering if you it's pretty cold or draughty where you've got your machines set up." - Steven Schulze
"You shouldn't have too much issues with excessive warping if you have heated beds already but adding panels is a must. It's cheap and cost effective way to improve your success rate." - Lazerus Reborn
Safety
Ventilate! http://phys.org/news/2013-07-3d-printers-shown-emit-potentially.html#jCp
(Could also be fear mongering)
One time cookie cutters! http://rasterweb.net/raster/2013/05/16/printing-violations-part-iii/
"Let it be known anything food based should only every be used once, and then thrown out. The process of printing creates thousands of tiny crevasses that are perfect for bacteria and mold build up. It doesn't matter how well you wash them. the crevasses are too small to get in and clean." - Slipsius
Use PLA for all foodstuffs!
Readying a model
Various Tutorials on 3D Printing + Online Classes
http://www.mold3d.com/
Blender 3D Printing Training DVD
http://www.blender3d.org/e-shop/product_info_n.php?products_id=160&PHPSESSID=18ec72991f0016ee3817c2ea858faced
[ame]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hh8HwLCexc[/ame]
"I guess something else to think about when you're first starting out is how your models are going to print. Ideally you want to find an angle that's going to require the least amount of support material as the surface that the material attaches to is always a little rougher.
If you're printing something with fine, protruding parts, it's also worth thinking about the direction that the striations of plastic run in. If you've got loops running around a thin part, it's going to be far weaker and liable to break than if the lines run along it from end to end. For Example if you were going to print a tall thin cylinder, printing it horizontally will be far stronger than vertically." - Steve Schulze
Printing
[ame]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3V90i8vo_k[/ame]
Materials
"Material matters! There are countless horror stories on selecting the right material for the job and the right brand. The original M3D PLA/ABS was a joke, fail rate of 50%. I then shopped around for a while and found, NusNus PLA on amazon for about £21, personal fail rate 10%." - Lazerus Reborn
Standard Filament Comparison
https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
Websites to purchase filament
http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/
http://rigid.ink/
Cleaning a model
Acetone
Acetone Alternative
http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/collections/best-selling/products/xtc-3d
Epoxy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=g0TGL6Cb2KY
Car Body Filler
"I use an old can of car (spray) filler I had lying around. After that prime it with some exterior use SupaDec (spray) primer. Acetone baths were my go to for ABS since I have a hotplate and everything else needed already so i suppose it was out of convenience.
For painted PLA i've opted for Liquitex (bottle, which i usually use on canvases) for the final coat. Adds that nice a nice 'medium gloss varnish' to the piece and protects the paint from fading." - Lazerus Reborn
Huge thanks to everyone who has provided information so far!
Information thread galore.
Going to start compiling the information up top in my free time.
A lot of this is butchered for now, I will find more resources and references to support the information posted up.
3D Printers
Selecting a printer http://www.makershed.com/products/make-magazine-volume-42
Calibrate your printer! [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/150mm-ELECTRONIC-DIGITAL-CALIPERS-VERNIER/dp/B007K7F04C/"]150mm ELECTRONIC DIGITAL CALIPERS VERNIER WITH LCD INC: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics[/ame]
Good Printer Practices
"Enclosing your printer will also help with warping and delaminating. We added some perspex panels to the older Makerbot we had for a while to help keep the heat in and stop the air conditioning from messing things up. It's less of an issue on the newer ones but probably still worth considering if you it's pretty cold or draughty where you've got your machines set up." - Steven Schulze
"You shouldn't have too much issues with excessive warping if you have heated beds already but adding panels is a must. It's cheap and cost effective way to improve your success rate." - Lazerus Reborn
Safety
Ventilate! http://phys.org/news/2013-07-3d-printers-shown-emit-potentially.html#jCp
(Could also be fear mongering)
One time cookie cutters! http://rasterweb.net/raster/2013/05/16/printing-violations-part-iii/
"Let it be known anything food based should only every be used once, and then thrown out. The process of printing creates thousands of tiny crevasses that are perfect for bacteria and mold build up. It doesn't matter how well you wash them. the crevasses are too small to get in and clean." - Slipsius
Use PLA for all foodstuffs!
Readying a model
Various Tutorials on 3D Printing + Online Classes
http://www.mold3d.com/
Blender 3D Printing Training DVD
http://www.blender3d.org/e-shop/product_info_n.php?products_id=160&PHPSESSID=18ec72991f0016ee3817c2ea858faced
[ame]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hh8HwLCexc[/ame]"I guess something else to think about when you're first starting out is how your models are going to print. Ideally you want to find an angle that's going to require the least amount of support material as the surface that the material attaches to is always a little rougher.
If you're printing something with fine, protruding parts, it's also worth thinking about the direction that the striations of plastic run in. If you've got loops running around a thin part, it's going to be far weaker and liable to break than if the lines run along it from end to end. For Example if you were going to print a tall thin cylinder, printing it horizontally will be far stronger than vertically." - Steve Schulze
Printing
[ame]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3V90i8vo_k[/ame]Materials
"Material matters! There are countless horror stories on selecting the right material for the job and the right brand. The original M3D PLA/ABS was a joke, fail rate of 50%. I then shopped around for a while and found, NusNus PLA on amazon for about £21, personal fail rate 10%." - Lazerus Reborn
Standard Filament Comparison
https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
Websites to purchase filament
http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/
http://rigid.ink/
Cleaning a model
Acetone
Acetone Alternative
http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/collections/best-selling/products/xtc-3d
Epoxy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=g0TGL6Cb2KY
Car Body Filler
"I use an old can of car (spray) filler I had lying around. After that prime it with some exterior use SupaDec (spray) primer. Acetone baths were my go to for ABS since I have a hotplate and everything else needed already so i suppose it was out of convenience.
For painted PLA i've opted for Liquitex (bottle, which i usually use on canvases) for the final coat. Adds that nice a nice 'medium gloss varnish' to the piece and protects the paint from fading." - Lazerus Reborn
Huge thanks to everyone who has provided information so far!
Replies
Hey, can you do loads of "experiments" there ? You know, for fine tuning and stuff ?
I want to know more about this. I know a couple of contacts that I will point them to this thread.
I made a piece for an artist this summer, I'll post it when I am clear to do so. I know wall thickness was important in my case as I was printing large objects around 12X12cm so no less then 1.5 mil was asked for. Apart from that I just had fun in ZBrush exported to 3DSmax and changed it into the various formats they wanted, normally Stereolithography was asked for (.STL files). I had to keep the files down to around 5 million, they first said there was no limit but they soon found 20 million was tipping it over the edge.
To make wall thickness in ZBrush I used this tutorial. It was really useful as I just put the detail on the model shell then made a group and stored a morph to bring back the outside shell detail, the inside did not mater so a smooth shell was all I needed.
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Also my work mate built this over the summer, he hopes to add servos and go on to build the rest of the suit and paint it all up. I will point him to this thread as well and see what he has to say.
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YES! One of the best parts about this is they said we're going to shut down the lab sometimes and "Just do cool shit" and push limits of the printers and stuff! Super pumped!
and thanks @littleclaude I'll check all that out! Good to know about density. I'll have to see whats too much, then teach all the students how to use decimation stuff
http://www.blender3d.org/e-shop/product_info_n.php?products_id=160&PHPSESSID=18ec72991f0016ee3817c2ea858faced
Carbon printing
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3D Printing for 100$;
http://www.peachyprinter.com/
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You materials also vary in price considerably. With the standard ABS or PLA plastics used by most consumer machines you might use $5-$10 worth of plastic for say, an action figure. On the Stratsys Objet printer we used to have at CTC that would have been more like $300 For a considerably higher resolution but quite brittle print.
This here is a good guide on 3d printers. It'll cost you $10 but if you're serious about this, it's well checking out.
http://www.makershed.com/products/make-ultimate-guide-to-3d-printing-2014
There should be a 2015 edition coming out sometime but this should still be most relevant.
The Largest 3D Printing Event Worldwide
Inside 3D Printing is the largest professional 3D printing and additive manufacturing event worldwide. As a conference attendee, youll explore the business applications of 3D printing through conference sessions led by industry experts, demonstrations of the latest 3D printers and services, and programming for designers, professionals, and makers. Join us on our world tour and see how 3D printing is revolutionizing industries including manufacturing, medicine, architecture, aerospace, and more.
If anyone feels like adding some of the resources from this thread (or other resources) to it, that would be awesome. Having it on a wiki page is a bit more permanent and accessible than a single thread imo?
ok now that i gave the troll answer ill give a real answer. the way you model things to be printed depends a lot on what kind of printer you are using. you can get away with not modeling supports on to your model for a zprinter with no problems but that same model would not print on a makerbot. and when printing with a makerbot make sure you can control the temperature around it and keep it away from the ac. if it starts to cool too quickly it will not stick to the layer beneath it and just make a rats nest out of your model. I believe the new makerbots have solved this problem by closing off the build platform with a case but I have never got to use one. and printing with rafts and supports can make getting the model off the build platform easier on a makerbot.
This is all really basic stuff buts its been over a year since I worked in my schools print lab and i dont remember everything i had to do to get prints to come out right other than trial and error.
I guess something else to think about when you're first starting out is how your models are going to print. Ideally you want to find an angle that's going to require the least amount of support material as the surface that the material attaches to is always a little rougher.
If you're printing something with fine, protruding parts, it's also worth thinking about the direction that the striations of plastic run in. If you've got loops running around a thin part, it's going to be far weaker and liable to break than if the lines run along it from end to end. For Example if you were going to print a tall thin cylinder, printing it horizontally will be far stronger than vertically.
I currently use a M3D at home and have abused the thing finding out any niche habit's it has.
Get it calibrated! [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/150mm-ELECTRONIC-DIGITAL-CALIPERS-VERNIER/dp/B007K7F04C/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1441097221&sr=1-1"]Callipers[/ame] are a must! Something [ame="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409"]like this[/ame] is also excellent after your initial test prints.
You shouldn't have too much issues with excessive warping if you have heated beds already but adding panels is a must. It's cheap and cost effective way to improve your success rate.
If you are in a closed lab space, ventilation is a must. This 'study' could be considered scare mongering and I'd rather that UFPs didn't turn out like Asbestos so some cautionary steps aren't harmful. Simple carbon filters do most of the work and if you are putting perspex on it then it becomes all the more simpler.
Material matters! There are countless horror stories on selecting the right material for the job and the right brand. The original M3D PLA/ABS was a joke, fail rate of 50%. I then shopped around for a while and found, NusNus PLA on amazon for about £21, personal fail rate 10%.
-Recently ordered RigidInk PLA, £25 but i've heard good things about it and the colors rival Faberdashery. I would have prefered to try out faberdasherys architects stone but it's out of stock haha.
ABS? Don't skimp on the cleanup, Acetone baths are pretty important step to get the polished look. Dozens of guides to do this and everyone of them will tell you to do it outside. Listen to them.
Not sure what else to cover atm. People have covered a lot of it now.
Effective and Safer 3D Print Smoothing with Epoxy not Acetone 3DBurn Ep 4
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Cold Casting your 3D Prints and adding a rust look
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How To Make Resin Copies of 3D-Printed Figures
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A friend of mine works with a spray on car body filler which not only fills in the ridges but gives a nice matte finish to work with. Tends to require a bit of sanding to get optimal results, but having that fine tuning option is better than the uniform dissolved look, I think.
I just noticed that the Make 2015 3d Printer Roundup is out (and has been for a while)
http://www.makershed.com/products/make-magazine-volume-42
Better option than the year and a half old one I linked earlier.
Found this : http://rasterweb.net/raster/2013/05/16/printing-violations-part-iii/
I'll need to start editing the first post with all these links and information XD
http://www.mold3d.com/
Oh, and this stuff as an alternative to acetone.
http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/collections/best-selling/products/xtc-3d
@ Steve I use the same method as your friend for PLA though. I use an old can of car (spray) filler I had lying around. After that prime it with some exterior use SupaDec (spray) primer. Acetone baths were my go to for ABS since I have a hotplate and everything else needed already so i suppose it was out of convenience. The Epoxy looks pretty slick though so i may give that a go when i next run out of coating stuff.
For painted PLA i've opted for Liquitex (bottle, which i usually use on canvases) for the final coat. Adds that nice a nice 'medium gloss varnish' to the piece and protects the paint from fading.
What about the printers that pull up to material rather than layering it?
they still layer it as far as i know, it's ub light cast in resin to harden it.
the powder stuff is also working layer by layer
I have only done a little with photogrammetry (and a lot more with laser scan data) but I have generally struggled to get really accurate scale. Based on the way his prints fit back into the real world, it seems like he has scale dead on accurate.
I have been using 3d printing to develop intake parts for my auto-x/track car:
Best surface quality has come from a combination of acetone vapor baths, block sanding, body filler, and surfacing primers:
Dayum dude, thats some fancy stuff! Makes me wonder if I could print some missing parts for my dads Trans Am project..
One filament that actually turned out to have completely clogged a tip to where we had to replace it was the wood filament (Once the tip cooled down it would no longer extrude, new filaments or even if we tried to print the wood again). Which took forever to get the settings right just to print. (It either went all spaghetti or came out as this goo) Does anyone have any experience with printing wood? I can get the specifics of what we're using tomorrow, I forgot to write it down for this post :P