It's a start if anything. There's a hard edge from the smoothing groups where the tire goes down from the treads, that a problem?
Here's the UV map at 1024^2. Is that too large for the entire wheel (I'll add the rims and what not later)? To get the detail on the side of the tire I don't think placing it in the 2048x2048 main UV map would work. The letters would lose quality, pixelated blurbs.
I'd also use an individual uvmap for the tire. the 1024 looks good to me, but your uv layout is very wasteful at the moment. I wouldnt put a hard edge there, and I would give a lot more geo to the whole thing, so 1, you won't need that hard edge there, 2, it will be a lot less angular (the car already use a lot of geo, which is ok, it has reason, so giving the tire more geo is also ok). You could try an uvmap like 1024*256 or something like this, so it won't be this wasteful.Then you need only 1 cut on the uvs so its easier to texture, and you can pack it better.
I just wanna quote earthquake for this hard edge thing...
To avoid artifacts, you must split your uvs where you use hard edges.
You do not however, NEED to use hard edges wherever you split your uvs(as some may suggest)
I would also use some more, or at least one more segment at the bevel of your tires outside.
Never unwrap the whole tread as one single strip. Overlap and share parts of it, if you have 25 sides, overlap 5 times 5 for example, and just make sure that section tiles well. You will NEVER notice it tiles (it all looks the same, and it's pattern after all), yet you will be able to do a much better and more efficient UV.
Xoliul - However you pointed out an important thing here, this wouldn't allow to put unique details into the textures. What would be the problem with the 1*1/4 (1024x256) layout? That would be still efficient.
Xoliul - However you pointed out an important thing here, this wouldn't allow to put unique details into the textures. What would be the problem with the 1*1/4 (1024x256) layout? That would be still efficient.
This additional detail could be done with a second uv channel. But most of the time you won´t notice the "unique"-detail on tires because they rotate really fast
I clearly see where you are coming from with the second uvs, but this would be an advanced shader then, so the question is, which would be less expensive.
Trust me, for the tread pattern, of which you can never see all at once (at most like 30% at a time), that is often hidden under the wheel arches, that might be rotating fast when the car drives, and that is repetitive by nature; 'unique detail' is completely unnecessary.
Trust me, for the tread pattern, of which you can never see all at once (at most like 30% at a time), that is often hidden under the wheel arches, that might be rotating fast when the car drives, and that is repetitive by nature; 'unique detail' is completely unnecessary.
Okay, this convinved me It would work in the most of the cases, but its still case dependant right? Like how you want to add dirts, or lets say its not hiding under the arch.
It would depend on what the game or situation calls for, if it's a static car with flat tires it's different for example.
If you're doing something for portfolio, don't make wasteful UV's just for some barely visible unique detail.
Another example: the treads on my bulldozer are just a tiling texture of 5-6 links. You never notice the lack of unique detail/dirt. Even if i really wanted it, I would never ever unwrap i unique, I'd just do some shader trick.
New UV's. Stacked treads and smaller UV space, 1024x512. This is a new model with more res. The only issue I think is the side walls. I used planar mapping on them.
@Obscura a 1024x256 sounds good but that means the sidewalls need to be straight. I'm not sure how to do that without distorting the sidewalls.
@.Wiki Read up on smoothing splits and such from where you quoted. Still wrapping my head around all of it, but getting there. I've placed the tire in one smoothing group, no hard edges.
Your texture ratio is a bit off 2.
at my work we have a general rule that the treads should fit inside the tire sidewall.
(if its a normal car)
Can you explain further? Are my new UV's doing this? Are you saying if the sidewall UV's were in a circle the treads should be able to fit in the center? I see normal car treads as a wider surface than each sidewall. Idk if that's what you are referring to.
Here's what I got. I think I managed to do what is needed. 1024x256 normal map, wasting no space, raised the poly count on the tire to have smoother edges and less distortion in the texture for the sidewalls....I probably need to chamfer the rim don't I?
I used Nvidia texture tools to get from my drawn out texture in photoshop to a normal map.
wait..... rethink thoose rims man, they look basic and ugly imo
Yeah the rim is basic, wanted to keep it a low poly count. Maybe they need chamfers or maybe do another kind? This is my reference for the rim: http://i.imgur.com/863qg93.jpg
Overall, almost done unwrapping. Need to correct some car body things and maybe a new rim. Currently, I am looking at how texturing headlights works, do I want emissive and so on. I may knock out the models of the lights and have it just be a texture.
Obscura said earlier there are many hard edges on the car. I'm still thinking this over...Is it mandatory to chamfer every hard edge? The car looks good to me right now.
If no textures are to be placed on certain parts do I need to include their UV's?
I'm going to model a new rim, shouldn't be difficult.
I rearranged the UV's for the car. I'm not planning on using textures for the whole thing. Idk....there's a lot of gaps in the UV map here. Below includes the covers over the lights, car body for the stripe, logo, grill, and the front bumper for dirt.
What's the best way to minimize wasted space with these irregular shapes?
I'm not planning on using textures for the whole thing. Idk....there's a lot of gaps in the UV map here. Below includes the covers over the lights, car body for the stripe, logo, grill, and the front bumper for dirt.[/IMG]
No no i already did the wheel uv. I also replied to this thread with pictures and all.
Inn short
: I think you have to redo the wheel again. its really badly modeled. in a sense of efficient low-poly modeling
So much wasted poly's specially the rim.
It also looks like you are taking more shortcuts overall.
-NO normals
-NO Bevels
And now no textures
Bring it on dude. Get her done. Make it a full next-gen racing car.
PS: the UV i made. pretty sloppy but you get the idea
Sidewall is like this because in this way you can easily paste original walls in here.
No no i already did the wheel uv. I also replied to this thread with pictures and all.
Inn short
: I think you have to redo the wheel again. its really badly modeled. in a sense of efficient low-poly modeling
So much wasted poly's specially the rim.
It also looks like you are taking more shortcuts overall.
-NO normals
-NO Bevels
And now no textures
Bring it on dude. Get her done. Make it a full next-gen racing car.
PS: the UV i made. pretty sloppy but you get the idea
Sidewall is like this because in this way you can easily paste original walls in here.
Enjoy
Thanks a ton, Bertmac for the wheel UV's. Why are there similar parts not stacked? Is that to fill in the extra space? Is it better to fill up space than to stack? I feel with the rim in there it should be a 1024^2 rez?
I hear ya, on the car. I've smoothed out many parts of the car. I hope it's noticeably better. Some reason I keep thinking things have to be super low poly. I'll set up the UV's for cool looking textures.
Is a 2048^2 rez for the body and 1024^2 for the wheel what the textures should be? I feel there may be some parts like the lights and grill won't have enough space in the 2048^2 to get the detail I want. Should I render out a third UV map with the light covers and grill, like 512^2 or 1k? Not sure if that's efficient.
It's starting to look pretty good, but there are a few places that could be improved with some additional geometry. First and foremost the wheel wells need a few more segments as they look a bit too lowpoly and jagged. The same goes for the top of the car (especially visible in the sideview). The corners of the inset beneath the front lights could do with some additional smoothing and the grill above said inset could use one or two additional segments too.
If you aren't going to use normalmaps for this I would assume you're doing it with simulator specs in mind. If that is the case you should use enough geometry that one cannot see the individual segments anywhere.
Thanks Nosslak, I think I can fix all those. Problem I usually have when fixing areas on the body is when edges are too close to each other it produces a crease in the body.
I worked on the Rim today. Tell me what you think. I made the 'star' and cylinder of the rim separate objects. I also will need to reduce the size of part of the rotor to get closer to the center of the rim.
I also tried a normal map for the star area. Been having some problems. In the low poly there's artifacts in the center and this step-like gradient all over. In the high poly there are lines due to the geometry in the center and artifacts along the spokes. I don't understand why because it does not show up in xNormal 3d viewer or as a render in 3ds max. Maybe the strong gloss and spec in marmoset bring out the truth. The normals shown are from xNormal.
your lug nuts look like screws, you need to make the holes so that a socket wrench/ impact gun can get in around it
floating geo isn't going to safe you on this one
also the spokes connecting to the outter wall of the rim seems pretty deep to me and not appealing (but that's just my preference) I would however beef it up a bit where it connects, add in an additional lip where it connects that goes all the way around the rim maybe for support
-Your rims are really not of the same level of modeling as your car. Feels like you just made them up instead of looking at reference. Go look at some interesting ref and practice modeling them a bit. Right now they look flimsy, unrealistic and fake. What's wrong with the standard rims? Some very smart and talented people at BMW chose and designed those to match the car, I'd start with that.
-That recent rim center unwrap you did is super wasteful again, you gotta lose that habit dude. You could share UV's for every spoke and make it super optimal (but do a better model first).
-Don't mirror a car's uv's in the center, like suggested. It tends to mess with normals on the hood and roof, makes doing any kind of graphics much harder, and doesn't necessarily lead to more efficient UV's per se.
-Use some more poly's on your wheelarches!!! You should NEVER be able to see the polygons on a current gen car like that. Heck even 6 years ago you shouldn't be able to see them like that. Same with the roof profile, I can see it right above the door. You should be able to add those polys without ruining the UV's.
Also, I/we might seem a bit harsh, but take it as encouragement; you're actually doing pretty well, I wouldn't bother feedbacking at all if I thought it was shit and that you could never make it. If you get serious about the stuff being remarked, you can get this to a good level of quality.
Hahah and i thought that i was harsh.
No same counts for me there are some very talented people still reacting to this thread. showing they care . So don't let us down please.
Anyway on stacking: the only thing not stacked are the spokes. to get variation. also one should probably have a brand on it so thats an other one. on your new rim. Why is there a star in the middle, its just asking for trouble. make the strait and you will see that you will een loose some poly's.
over all use more poy's
As an example i am working on a mobile racing game.
this is a test
Anyway on stacking: the only thing not stacked are the spokes. to get variation. also one should probably have a brand on it so thats an other one. on your new rim. Why is there a star in the middle, its just asking for trouble. make the strait and you will see that you will een loose some poly's.
over all use more poy's
As an example i am working on a mobile racing game.
this is a test
read the left corner on the bottum
I'm looking at the poly count there. Is that 2150 tris for each wheel? That's roughly 2/3 the poly count of the body + interior. I guess that's just how it is and what you guys are telling me. Rims are crazy expensive. When you say, "Anyway on stacking: the only thing not stacked are the spokes. to get variation." If there is no brand on the rim is there still a reason to not stack all of them? Something to do with having variation...um from different areas of the UV map...no idea if that sounds silly.
Here is the new rim. It is incomplete at the moment. It's at 4,184 quads. The car body without windows, lights and all is almost 9k. A 4k rim (16k with four rims total not including the tire) and a 9k body is correct? The slots for the lug nuts are not modeled in. Should I go ahead and do that or can I save some polys by disregarding slots and placing floating geo lug nuts on top?
Also been going through the entire body of the car, adding edge loops, fixing smoothing and such...the red marks are problem areas, maybe there's more, maybe less if my eyes are playing tricks. I changed the shader towards a black to see the problems easier. Are the wheel wells, roof, etc. smooth enough?
Hey. If you could upload the model (don't worry, I won't steal it :P I could make one for myself if I would like to) I could show you some possible improvements, and how to fix the shading problems. If you don't want to let everybody download it, send me in a pm.
Hey. If you could upload the model (don't worry, I won't steal it :P I could make one for myself if I would like to) I could show you some possible improvements, and how to fix the shading problems. If you don't want to let everybody download it, send me in a pm.
...but making one for yourself by using his model is pretty much stealing it : /
and I say let the man learn how to make the improvements himself, he is getting way better as he goes any ways
Keep up the good work, look how much progress you've made since the start!
Thanks Kroma, I read through the link. That's a good idea. Although, as the thread says it's harder to edit the model once all those tris are there. I'll see what I can do.
Anyways, it would be a faster way if someone would show him.
I think i fixed most of the smoothing issues. Although there seem to be a few more. Do you know some black magic smoothing skills I could use?? Sometimes I fix something and another one appears...getting annoying.
I also don't know what to make of these artifacts on the rim.
Ah, okay. The curvy lines on the rim is from a skewed UV map that I didn't bother with yet. Got it.
Edit (~1 hour later): okay, i get the rim problems. UV's, UV's, UV's. The UV seams are showing in the center of the rim.
Edit Edit: Last edit. can't get these UV seams to go away. UV seams that are not along hard edges are fine correct? this is a spoke of the rim using symmetry to get the complete V. The UV's are stacked. Idk why these seams pop up.
I think i fixed most of the smoothing issues. Although there seem to be a few more. Do you know some black magic smoothing skills I could use?? Sometimes I fix something and another one appears...getting annoying.
I'll make some paintovers tomorrow. But until that, a few of the smoothing issues are coming from some unnecessary geo, and the another problem is a lack of proper control edges.
I'll make some paintovers tomorrow. But until that, a few of the smoothing issues are coming from some unnecessary geo, and the another problem is a lack of proper control edges.
Thanks, that would be great if you can. In the pic below that I posted already I added extra geo to try to solve the smoothing problem. It didn't work as you can see. I agree it's unnecessary geo. Not sure how to fix it though.
I worked on the caliper. Here it is. Any good? Terrible?
Are you still planning on using normal maps for the rims? In case you are there is a lot of geometry that could be removed that doesn't contribute at all to the silhouette. Right now it just looks like you're using the raw, unsubdivided geometry for the lowpoly and, while it is a good starting point, it is by no means where you should stop and call the lowpoly done. I've assumed it was just a WIP thing that you were going to fix, but now that you're unwrapping it it doesn't really look like that's the case anymore. So go in and remove the geometry that doesn't change the silhouette (like the bolts) and loops that doesn't change the form noticeably (like the loops on the mostly flat side of the cap). You should probably be able to get away with at least half, but I wouldn't be surprised if you could use just a third of the polygons if you were to just optimize the center cap and caliper a bit smarter.
It's starting to look pretty good though, so keep on going!
Nosslak, I decided to see what I could do about the rim. I did a quick normal map. There are still edges I can remove from the low poly. Thanks for the heads up on this.
I ran into a small problem but was able to figure it out. I'm wondering if this is the best way to do it. Cool stuff none the less.
honestly the baked on lug nuts look terrible, I wouldn't bake them due to the fact that they are usually always a deep inset into the rim itself and therefore a key area in an otherwise flat rim for lighting to reflect off of
right now it looks like your rims are using screws, they need to be bigger and they need space around the nut to fit a socket wrench - like I mentioned in an older post
an alternative to not doing this would to pick a difference style rim that has a center cap and hides the lug nuts completely
The car is coming along nicely! I love seeing the progress through the thread!
Just a little something that caught my eye:
The spacing of the lug nuts/bolt on the rim seems off to me. As far as my rim knowledge goes, they should all be equal distance from each other(it looks to me like they are not. - specifically the bottom 2 have far more faces between them) as well as equal distance from the middle(looks like you got this part)
I don't know if you have a specific reference in mind for your rim, but judging by your geo, a 4 bolt pattern might be easier to create? (although I think BMW's almost exclusively use a 5 bolt pattern)
The car is coming along nicely! I love seeing the progress through the thread!
Just a little something that caught my eye:
The spacing of the lug nuts/bolt on the rim seems off to me. As far as my rim knowledge goes, they should all be equal distance from each other(it looks to me like they are not. - specifically the bottom 2 have far more faces between them) as well as equal distance from the middle(looks like you got this part)
I don't know if you have a specific reference in mind for your rim, but judging by your geo, a 4 bolt pattern might be easier to create? (although I think BMW's almost exclusively use a 5 bolt pattern)
Thanks Prose_One. You're right, I'm not able to evenly space out the lug nuts because I started with a 48 edged cylinder (48 can't be divided by 5). Moving it manually can mess up the circle edges. I don't see bmw rims having 4 lug nuts.
There's a few things I want to fix including the lug nuts. It is almost the end of March. I want to finish this project up. I'm going to see how far and well I can get. Then come back and fix things....even if I must rebake, re texture.
How are the images below? No idea if my spec and gloss map look legit. The entire wheel is ~7,200 quads.
Replies
It's a start if anything. There's a hard edge from the smoothing groups where the tire goes down from the treads, that a problem?
Here's the UV map at 1024^2. Is that too large for the entire wheel (I'll add the rims and what not later)? To get the detail on the side of the tire I don't think placing it in the 2048x2048 main UV map would work. The letters would lose quality, pixelated blurbs.
I would also use some more, or at least one more segment at the bevel of your tires outside.
And even if it's more visible, it could still look fine, I did that here for the tires: http://www.laurenscorijn.com/portfolio/hotrod
For the sidewall, sure, you can unwrap that unique since you will see it and it needs text looping around.
Okay, this convinved me It would work in the most of the cases, but its still case dependant right? Like how you want to add dirts, or lets say its not hiding under the arch.
If you're doing something for portfolio, don't make wasteful UV's just for some barely visible unique detail.
Another example: the treads on my bulldozer are just a tiling texture of 5-6 links. You never notice the lack of unique detail/dirt. Even if i really wanted it, I would never ever unwrap i unique, I'd just do some shader trick.
at my work we have a general rule that the treads should fit inside the tire sidewall.
(if its a normal car)
Like Xoliul says it all depends for what game you are making this car.
That' s so important with cars, in every stage from start to finish.
have fun
@Xoliul thanks for the stacking suggestion
New UV's. Stacked treads and smaller UV space, 1024x512. This is a new model with more res. The only issue I think is the side walls. I used planar mapping on them.
@Obscura a 1024x256 sounds good but that means the sidewalls need to be straight. I'm not sure how to do that without distorting the sidewalls.
@.Wiki Read up on smoothing splits and such from where you quoted. Still wrapping my head around all of it, but getting there. I've placed the tire in one smoothing group, no hard edges.
@Bertmac Can you explain further? Are my new UV's doing this? Are you saying if the sidewall UV's were in a circle the treads should be able to fit in the center? I see normal car treads as a wider surface than each sidewall. Idk if that's what you are referring to.
I used Nvidia texture tools to get from my drawn out texture in photoshop to a normal map.
Lemme know if there's something amiss.
I sent a PM with the obj. Thanks.
Yeah the rim is basic, wanted to keep it a low poly count. Maybe they need chamfers or maybe do another kind? This is my reference for the rim: http://i.imgur.com/863qg93.jpg
Overall, almost done unwrapping. Need to correct some car body things and maybe a new rim. Currently, I am looking at how texturing headlights works, do I want emissive and so on. I may knock out the models of the lights and have it just be a texture.
If no textures are to be placed on certain parts do I need to include their UV's?
I'm going to model a new rim, shouldn't be difficult.
I'm still working on the headlight.
Hey Bertmac, I sent another PM.
I rearranged the UV's for the car. I'm not planning on using textures for the whole thing. Idk....there's a lot of gaps in the UV map here. Below includes the covers over the lights, car body for the stripe, logo, grill, and the front bumper for dirt.
What's the best way to minimize wasted space with these irregular shapes?
Why?
Inn short
: I think you have to redo the wheel again. its really badly modeled. in a sense of efficient low-poly modeling
So much wasted poly's specially the rim.
It also looks like you are taking more shortcuts overall.
-NO normals
-NO Bevels
And now no textures
Bring it on dude. Get her done. Make it a full next-gen racing car.
PS: the UV i made. pretty sloppy but you get the idea
Sidewall is like this because in this way you can easily paste original walls in here.
Enjoy
People talked about it in this thread
.
Thanks a ton, Bertmac for the wheel UV's. Why are there similar parts not stacked? Is that to fill in the extra space? Is it better to fill up space than to stack? I feel with the rim in there it should be a 1024^2 rez?
I hear ya, on the car. I've smoothed out many parts of the car. I hope it's noticeably better. Some reason I keep thinking things have to be super low poly. I'll set up the UV's for cool looking textures.
Is a 2048^2 rez for the body and 1024^2 for the wheel what the textures should be? I feel there may be some parts like the lights and grill won't have enough space in the 2048^2 to get the detail I want. Should I render out a third UV map with the light covers and grill, like 512^2 or 1k? Not sure if that's efficient.
If you aren't going to use normalmaps for this I would assume you're doing it with simulator specs in mind. If that is the case you should use enough geometry that one cannot see the individual segments anywhere.
I worked on the Rim today. Tell me what you think. I made the 'star' and cylinder of the rim separate objects. I also will need to reduce the size of part of the rotor to get closer to the center of the rim.
I also tried a normal map for the star area. Been having some problems. In the low poly there's artifacts in the center and this step-like gradient all over. In the high poly there are lines due to the geometry in the center and artifacts along the spokes. I don't understand why because it does not show up in xNormal 3d viewer or as a render in 3ds max. Maybe the strong gloss and spec in marmoset bring out the truth. The normals shown are from xNormal.
+1
floating geo isn't going to safe you on this one
also the spokes connecting to the outter wall of the rim seems pretty deep to me and not appealing (but that's just my preference) I would however beef it up a bit where it connects, add in an additional lip where it connects that goes all the way around the rim maybe for support
-Your rims are really not of the same level of modeling as your car. Feels like you just made them up instead of looking at reference. Go look at some interesting ref and practice modeling them a bit. Right now they look flimsy, unrealistic and fake. What's wrong with the standard rims? Some very smart and talented people at BMW chose and designed those to match the car, I'd start with that.
-That recent rim center unwrap you did is super wasteful again, you gotta lose that habit dude. You could share UV's for every spoke and make it super optimal (but do a better model first).
-Don't mirror a car's uv's in the center, like suggested. It tends to mess with normals on the hood and roof, makes doing any kind of graphics much harder, and doesn't necessarily lead to more efficient UV's per se.
-Use some more poly's on your wheelarches!!! You should NEVER be able to see the polygons on a current gen car like that. Heck even 6 years ago you shouldn't be able to see them like that. Same with the roof profile, I can see it right above the door. You should be able to add those polys without ruining the UV's.
Also, I/we might seem a bit harsh, but take it as encouragement; you're actually doing pretty well, I wouldn't bother feedbacking at all if I thought it was shit and that you could never make it. If you get serious about the stuff being remarked, you can get this to a good level of quality.
No same counts for me there are some very talented people still reacting to this thread. showing they care . So don't let us down please.
Anyway on stacking: the only thing not stacked are the spokes. to get variation. also one should probably have a brand on it so thats an other one. on your new rim. Why is there a star in the middle, its just asking for trouble. make the strait and you will see that you will een loose some poly's.
over all use more poy's
As an example i am working on a mobile racing game.
this is a test
read the left corner on the bottum
Enjoy
I totally get it. The direct critique is good and needed. The encouragement also helps.
I'm looking at the poly count there. Is that 2150 tris for each wheel? That's roughly 2/3 the poly count of the body + interior. I guess that's just how it is and what you guys are telling me. Rims are crazy expensive. When you say, "Anyway on stacking: the only thing not stacked are the spokes. to get variation." If there is no brand on the rim is there still a reason to not stack all of them? Something to do with having variation...um from different areas of the UV map...no idea if that sounds silly.
Here is the new rim. It is incomplete at the moment. It's at 4,184 quads. The car body without windows, lights and all is almost 9k. A 4k rim (16k with four rims total not including the tire) and a 9k body is correct? The slots for the lug nuts are not modeled in. Should I go ahead and do that or can I save some polys by disregarding slots and placing floating geo lug nuts on top?
Tutorial that helped a bit. I think I found it through polycount webiste: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxp-8Bh15Es
Reference: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/Wheels/wheels_e92_M3_GTS_wheels_black_e90_m3_3.jpg
Also been going through the entire body of the car, adding edge loops, fixing smoothing and such...the red marks are problem areas, maybe there's more, maybe less if my eyes are playing tricks. I changed the shader towards a black to see the problems easier. Are the wheel wells, roof, etc. smooth enough?
...but making one for yourself by using his model is pretty much stealing it : /
and I say let the man learn how to make the improvements himself, he is getting way better as he goes any ways
Anyways, it would be a faster way if someone would show him.
Keep up the good work, look how much progress you've made since the start!
No its not per wheel but all together. again this is made for a mobile racing game.
I don't wanna keep plugging my pictures in your thread so i f you need the see the wheels just ask and i show you.
Good luck
Yeah, I'd like to see the wheels. Whether it's through this thread or a PM. I'm guessing you used a normal map for the body?
Thanks Kroma, I read through the link. That's a good idea. Although, as the thread says it's harder to edit the model once all those tris are there. I'll see what I can do.
I think i fixed most of the smoothing issues. Although there seem to be a few more. Do you know some black magic smoothing skills I could use?? Sometimes I fix something and another one appears...getting annoying.
I also don't know what to make of these artifacts on the rim.
I want to get to texturing! :poly122:
Edit (~1 hour later): okay, i get the rim problems. UV's, UV's, UV's. The UV seams are showing in the center of the rim.
Edit Edit: Last edit. can't get these UV seams to go away. UV seams that are not along hard edges are fine correct? this is a spoke of the rim using symmetry to get the complete V. The UV's are stacked. Idk why these seams pop up.
I'll make some paintovers tomorrow. But until that, a few of the smoothing issues are coming from some unnecessary geo, and the another problem is a lack of proper control edges.
Thanks, that would be great if you can. In the pic below that I posted already I added extra geo to try to solve the smoothing problem. It didn't work as you can see. I agree it's unnecessary geo. Not sure how to fix it though.
I worked on the caliper. Here it is. Any good? Terrible?
It's starting to look pretty good though, so keep on going!
I ran into a small problem but was able to figure it out. I'm wondering if this is the best way to do it. Cool stuff none the less.
right now it looks like your rims are using screws, they need to be bigger and they need space around the nut to fit a socket wrench - like I mentioned in an older post
an alternative to not doing this would to pick a difference style rim that has a center cap and hides the lug nuts completely
Just a little something that caught my eye:
The spacing of the lug nuts/bolt on the rim seems off to me. As far as my rim knowledge goes, they should all be equal distance from each other(it looks to me like they are not. - specifically the bottom 2 have far more faces between them) as well as equal distance from the middle(looks like you got this part)
I don't know if you have a specific reference in mind for your rim, but judging by your geo, a 4 bolt pattern might be easier to create? (although I think BMW's almost exclusively use a 5 bolt pattern)
Thanks Prose_One. You're right, I'm not able to evenly space out the lug nuts because I started with a 48 edged cylinder (48 can't be divided by 5). Moving it manually can mess up the circle edges. I don't see bmw rims having 4 lug nuts.
There's a few things I want to fix including the lug nuts. It is almost the end of March. I want to finish this project up. I'm going to see how far and well I can get. Then come back and fix things....even if I must rebake, re texture.
How are the images below? No idea if my spec and gloss map look legit. The entire wheel is ~7,200 quads.
EDIT: just learned race cars don't have treads....what about a rally car?...even though this is a BMW E63, considered a luxury car...ugh. My intended look is something like this: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=216482