Handpainted axe
Hello!
I just finished painting this axe and i would love to hear what you guys think about it.
Its also the first time i encounter wood, so i could really use some advice on it(i know it doesnt read correctly but i dont really know what to do to fix it)
There are currently no lights in the scene, and the diffuse map is 1024(on the left), and 256 on the right, 488 tris.
Thanks for looking
I just finished painting this axe and i would love to hear what you guys think about it.
Its also the first time i encounter wood, so i could really use some advice on it(i know it doesnt read correctly but i dont really know what to do to fix it)
There are currently no lights in the scene, and the diffuse map is 1024(on the left), and 256 on the right, 488 tris.
Thanks for looking
Replies
Currently your textures are extremely muddy, a good way to fix that is by creating a good color gradient before starting to paint in details. Create a good range of value before diving in!
The color/value should blend based on the light source and pooling of shadows.
Avoid using pure white or black, this is really a 3D artist rookie mistake, where we think "Ah well this is occluded so it should be black", but that is something you should let the engine handle. Same with white. Getting VERY close to white helps pop the painting but unless used correctly seems to flatten the image (IMO).
The details are looking pretty neat but don't forget to create a good amount of variation in them. Think about the size of scratches and knicks on the blade, think about how the weapon was forged that could have left it's surfaced blemished. Keeping things like this in mind will help make a more engaging asset.
Take a look at my paint over to get a good idea of all these, hopfully more skilled hand painting artist will chime in as well.
Last but not least; when creating hand painted textures, you're usually working on a stylized asset. Something that I've noticed when creating stylized assets is duplicating or overlapping the UV's actually helps the piece by creating more patterns the eye can pick up on. I'd suggest trying this will the studs and gold parts attached to the blade, as a bonus doing this will also cut down on the amount you'll need to paint.
SORRY but I'm editing more in!
I want to talk quickly about your model, when creating hand painted assets it's easy to over look the model and dive directly into texture, this is a huge mistake that you'll kick yourself for EVERY TIME!
So before you begin UVing and texturing make sure to step back and look at the models' silhouette, make sure it's engaging and exciting. If it's not, no matter how good the painting is you'll still have a mediocre asset on your hands.
So once again I did a quick grab of you're images and painted over the model in photoshop to see if I could make it a little more exciting, I also opened it up in 3DS Max (work where you are most comfortable and quickest) and created a model (Which thanks, I'm gonna end up making...eventually).
Keep in mind when painting the silhouette, you don't have to know what the shapes are right away just make sure they look cool!
I also added the 3DS Max model so you can see the mirrored UV's and how to add variation without wasting texture space.
Hope this helps.
Oh and dimosM, I missed it in my first post but the wood looks pretty damn good for you're first try at it! There are definitely wood texturing tutorials if you're interested.
based on that , thats my progress so far, its not over yet, but i am gonna post more updates tomorrow, cheers !
Have you tried messing with the sil yet? Maybe extruding the wrapped cloth?
Oh and personal preference but when you display the model can you remove the grid?
Best of luck!
So i messed with the sil a little, added some blue to my highlights, and tried to saturate the shadows by adding some bluish colours (although i dont really think i achieved much on that field).
- YakZSmelk, yeah it is actually presented better without the grid
- JunkieKong, i agree with you about the colour scheme especially on the big diamond like things, but i didnt really find the time to change it yet
- aaronmwolford, what exactly do you mean, by adding segments to the blade? i dont quite get it.
aaronmwolford mean's that if you add more faces to the blade you'll get a smoother look. Unless you are shooting for an extremely low triangle count, I'd also recommend up the poly count on the blade especially the underside which right now is too jagged.
Here's a quick mock up to give you a better idea;
Btw presentation looks alot better! Can't wait to see more of this.
Again, i thank you guys for the great help, and of course if there is something more you wanna add please do!
Cheers.
Moving forward I would suggest trying to push your gradients move, push the dark a little bit further so it's more visible. The highlights are looking great though.
Most hand-painted weaponry has a top-down lighting painted into the diffuse. Think about this when adding highlights and shadows. Anything facing toward the ground will be darker than vertical surfaces, and anything facing upward will be brighter. Looks like you've got the right idea on the axe blade and red fabric, now you just need to implement the same concept across your entire model.
regards