H&K MP5 Mashup
polycounter lvl 10
This weekend I started on a model of an MP5 but it's using parts from different models I think... but it's no worries because a lot of them are interchangeable anyways? At least that's what I've been told
anyways here it is atm:
anyways here it is atm:
Replies
Your just using a color map at the moment right? I'm trying to figure out the best way for rendering High Poly models.
What material are you using in Marmoset 2? if you don't mind sharing
Also how much floating geometry are you using? It looks very snug like its all 1 piece
Would love to see some wires
Now put this thing through the oven!
the pin on the front of the foregrip is too small according to reference.
pistol grip seems kinda flat and not wide enough.
the top and bottom contours of the stock aren't round enough. It should just be a straight up half circle whereas yours appears to go flat.
I think I've fixed the couple small notes stuff and I'll probably redo the bolt this weekend (should I? I don't think it would be viewed under any scrutiny) and make the LP in the coming 1-2 weekends.
Thanks! They're just color constants applied to a highpoly mesh in Marmoset 2 - I just tinkered around with the metalness parameters where the gunmetal would be a metalness 1, dark albedo; the shiny metal would be a metalness 1, light albedo; and the green plastic stuff would be a metalness 0, green albedo (which imo is the future - what could be more intuitive than "dark metal, light metal, and green not-metal?). As for floating geometry- I used them for the little notches on the fire selector and also the two little notches on the magazine and also the threading on the barrel. I reckon I could integrate them rather easily into the mesh but I don't think it really matters (and it is awfully convenient)
I also tried to float the diamond-shape texture on the charging handle and rear sight but I ran into a bunch of butt aligning it and so I think I'll just add it in the bake.
-The part where the stock meets the upper receiver is a bit wonky, the profile of the stock should follow the receivers' lines much better. Also the transition of the bulge into the rest of the stock isn't completely accurate, it's too sharp. The bulge also tends to have a more defined flat top than you have.
-Your front sight post is a bit inaccurate. The thin bulge you have is not a bulge, but an inset for the sight post that slides in. The cross-section/profile of the front sight is also not flat.
You could look at some ref for the older G3 sight posts, they were cast instead of milled like the newer MP5 ones, they tend to be slightly softer with bevels, looks better when baked.
-also, the 'slit' in the side of the upper receiver that is so typical of MP5's, is a bit hard on yours. Remember that part is made from a stamped sheet of metal, so it can't really have (almost) perfectly sharp 90 degree angles in real life. See how round these sides are on the stamped sheet?
Anyway, even though they relate to accuracy, I think most of these things could get the bakes to look better because you'll have some smoother, rounder angles and nicer corners.
It is the high poly
i-it's not noticable anyways ;.;
doing a metalness map for this one... I've got to figure out how to get believable gunmetal wearing (guns are surprisingly matte and if it weren't for their forms they'd be very dull to look at tbh)
still have to work out the plastic and how it works out with the grimy stuff
How did you do that plastic noise on the stock normal map texture?
If i can only suggest 2 things about model:
- you all the time should try to suggest the "material" by modeling as much as only possible. What does it means - your plastic elements should have "little different" feeling of edges, shape. For instance - your plastic part >next to camera< looks fine, it has nice "smoothy" feeling, completny different than metal/solid parts of gun. Plastic part next to barrel have hpoly model formed like metal elements.
- non-important thing - magazine cover should be little more "thick"
And some tips about textures:
- if you use a "red" dirt on green plastic, it will looks like dirty, but without changing brightness. (just little colorize it;))
- if you add some kind of blue/purple color gradients on plastic, i will looks more realistic. Now that part it's without soul, remind CAD visialisation or sth like this.
- metal is quite boring (because you put the same edges/scratches everywhere. try to reduce it in some places/add more in the others.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27384435/idea.gif
- One of the most important rule in gun-texturing is "slicing" metal parts to create the visual effect of other planes/surfaces. Look ant polygoo <totally awesome > works: http://polygoo.com/m4homefront - look how many kind of metal/surface were used, but it's still "works" visually consistent. (i understand that you want to create 2 other kinds of metal, but it's still to little difference between them. Maybe add some color on it? <just a little bit>)
- the last tip -don't use the same value of detail normal map. You probably baked it on main texture, so reduce it in some places.
I like it!
Regards,
Pirat
i generated the heck out of em
thanks a ton for the crits!
In regards to the metal though - I wanted to specifically avoid that kind of sharp, chipped wear for the trigger group and go for much smoother, more gradual wear like this:
and the stainless steel receiver wouldn't really receive any color variations or slicing in wear (probably only in roughness as the material's color is constant inside and outside)
but should I not be using that kind of finish in the mp5?
is the smooth/chipped wear even dependant on the type of metal finish? or is it just the way it's been handled that determines the kind of wear?
also could you elaborate on what you mean by a magazine cover? Iiii've no idea what that is
Sometime, small values should be little pimped, because on screen (it's up to resolution ofc) in FPP they generate only noise, or have "paper thickness"
To be honest - i hate this kind of steel (reference photo) xD In video games It looks like something similar to stone~.
I prefer GOOD textures, rather that REALISTIC textures. ;D (For me) You can use/add as many metal-kind as you only want.
I wrote you some tips "how to improve" your gun. I can't tell you which way will be the best.
- distribution of scratches/highlight/dirt up (usually) to 2 things >object shape >areas exposed deterioration (switches, hard edges, areas next to hands, mechanism etc.)
- size/color/reflection etc. up to kind of material. (usually)
I hope i helped a little.
Mr. Brightside - you right.
If you want create a very very realistic texture, wear should be much more contrasted, and undamaged ares should be less glossy.