An another recommendation would be that, when you are trying to handpaint a texture, and you arent sure how it should look,or how you could make it look like a painted texture, or just want to compare, download one from the internet, place next to your texture, and just "copy" it. This can help a lot when you just start with stylized textures. Good Luck!
Yeah. Do not depend on filters and renderers to do these textures for a while. Use of real world texture overlays are fine, but you need to endeavor to good painting right now before we can add in the extras. Or else, we run into the issue of allowing our computer-calculated art to carry most of the strength of a texture.
The most important bit is not so much about which brushes to use, but in what order. I can't vouch for others, but personally I start out with fairly large, fairly hard (around 75) brushes at full opacity, and get down some really strong shapes. And then I work further down with slightly smaller soft brushes , and then smaller and smaller.
The biggest problem you have, I think, is that you're solely relying on a very thin hard brush and only one 'size' of detail.
Use the smudge tool sparingly. It's a inefficient way to learn blending in Photoshop. Use a tablet with pen pressure opacity to make those blends between hues and values.
Don't make your cracks black. Make them a dark brown.
Not. It's a very obvious copy of this:
and is only about learning to paint materials, not tiling textures.
That said, It would be a good idea to work with a square texture and make it at least somewhat tilable. Doesn't have to be pixel perfect at the edges at first, but it will teach you how to spread out your detail and avoid super obvious repetition. Similar to how it works in pixel art:
Learning how to work with simple tiling right now doesn't cost a lot of extra effort and it saves you from having to learn it as a separate skill (and having to unlearn some behaviors) down the road.
Your current image is better in one regard, worse in another. The highlights, shadows and cracks are better than the (almost) pure black from the first try. But the removal of all the smudging makes the material feel very boring. It lacks that structure, that material definition.
Have a round or squarish brush with opacity set to pen pressure and play around with that. You will see that you can build layers of tone that way. You can also use the dropper tool to sample any of those variations and viola, you can blend into what you have painted. There's a time and place for the smudge tool as everyone has said.
try hitting the brick seperations with some cracks as well, before you do those specific cracks, you should define the different levels of the bricks, put some value variations with big shapes, then go in with the detailed cracks.
I was having lag issues with my pen but i tried to paint what I am trying to say.
Id set up a image of 512 by 512, get some grid lines at set that at Grid lines every 128 pixels, subdivisions 1... make sure you go to Window Show Grid. Id start off with your brush at 100% hardness, 0 spacing, and for the grout lines turn on the Scattering and raise it up to something that makes it not so uniformal, then use that to get the starting lines down.
from there id turn off or lower the scattering of the brush and start
defining the edges of the bricks with putting some lighter values ontop of
the edges of the bricks. and use big shapes to change the forms of the bricks with darker values..
Bricks, especially weathered and beaten bricks are very rarely strait-edged like you have there, I think you are being way to mechanical in how you are doing it. If you watched his tutorials you wont see him use a bevel or even straight edges. It's mostly free form, which is why it's called hand painted.
Do you like painting concepts or scenes? If it isnt something you do regularly, I would suggest it, perhaps even an hour or two a day. Now I know some 3d artists that are great at what they do even without the regular painting sessions, but this is something that worked for me to improve my texturing ability.
I was actually basing this off a brick tile in my backyard, its cracked and stuff from things being dropped on it, but the edges aren't all chipped up. But next time I will use some scattering on my highlights and shadows to make the bevel more free form.
He's not talking about the edges needing cracks and such but the gaps between each tile are exactly the same spacing over the entire texture which = bad workmanship as it doesn't show any form of natural chaos.
Nothing in real life is mathematically perfect, geometry wise you may have some things come close but the object always has inconsistency's.
You have to really study in order to paint textures to a good standard, it's not so much about doing it but rather learning to do everything it incorporates and combining those skills to create what you are trying to do.
Seeing as painting digitally requires knowledge of shape,form,light,perspective and brush techniques you should practice those things first, then return to the current challenge at hand. Or even better do both.
Set yourself a task or two to finish a few digital paintings of interior environments, outdoor environments and natural scenes daily or whenever you have free time (Make sure you study VERY closely from reference). Then after finishing one have another go at the hand painted textures. Do this on a daily basis and you will soon understand all the techniques and processes needed both in practice and theory to achieve the best you can.
That's pretty much the most stellar advice I can offer in regards to all this, there really is no technique to do it well, the techniques posted on this thread are supposed to make it faster/easier for people who already have a background within digital painting.
hey, I have been MIA for the past month because of school, grading etc etc... this thread is looking good... you are definitely providing the illusion of depth. keep going!!
no set release date yet... but soon... I have a lot to do and get things hammered out. I want to get these videos out ASAP!
In the boot camp video, I will go over the following points:
-Color and value
-Composition
-Best practices on organizing layers and groups in photoshop
-Creating a base stone texture
-Creating a base wood texture
-Creating a base metal texture
these points should be enough to chew on for a boot camp tutorial
After the boot camp video, I will create a tutorial on how to make a stylized tree and how to quickly assemble it from scratch.
Replies
I recommend especially this one
An another recommendation would be that, when you are trying to handpaint a texture, and you arent sure how it should look,or how you could make it look like a painted texture, or just want to compare, download one from the internet, place next to your texture, and just "copy" it. This can help a lot when you just start with stylized textures. Good Luck!
The biggest problem you have, I think, is that you're solely relying on a very thin hard brush and only one 'size' of detail.
As a baby step right now, make bigger cracks. Right now, the sizes are all uniform.
As well, make sure you're looking at reference. Jessica Dinh's stuff is a good place to start.
Don't make your cracks black. Make them a dark brown.
and is only about learning to paint materials, not tiling textures.
That said, It would be a good idea to work with a square texture and make it at least somewhat tilable. Doesn't have to be pixel perfect at the edges at first, but it will teach you how to spread out your detail and avoid super obvious repetition. Similar to how it works in pixel art:
Learning how to work with simple tiling right now doesn't cost a lot of extra effort and it saves you from having to learn it as a separate skill (and having to unlearn some behaviors) down the road.
Your current image is better in one regard, worse in another. The highlights, shadows and cracks are better than the (almost) pure black from the first try. But the removal of all the smudging makes the material feel very boring. It lacks that structure, that material definition.
Continue adding more color and elements into the flat surface areas, like in the Art Panda tutorial.
I was having lag issues with my pen but i tried to paint what I am trying to say.
https://www.google.com/search?q=hand+painted+stone&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=3AK0UsCUDa7iyAGnwYGoBA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1247&bih=528#q=hand+painted+stone+wall+texture&tbm=isch&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=UE2ufZLjNdxYDM%3A%3B21ZCPnU2uzhWZM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F0.s3.envato.com%252Ffiles%252F61632012%252Fpreview_05.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F3docean.net%252Fitem%252Fstone-wall-texture-tile-05%252F5174133%3B590%3B590
I found this very helpful.
from there id turn off or lower the scattering of the brush and start
defining the edges of the bricks with putting some lighter values ontop of
the edges of the bricks. and use big shapes to change the forms of the bricks with darker values..
He's not talking about the edges needing cracks and such but the gaps between each tile are exactly the same spacing over the entire texture which = bad workmanship as it doesn't show any form of natural chaos.
Nothing in real life is mathematically perfect, geometry wise you may have some things come close but the object always has inconsistency's.
You have to really study in order to paint textures to a good standard, it's not so much about doing it but rather learning to do everything it incorporates and combining those skills to create what you are trying to do.
Seeing as painting digitally requires knowledge of shape,form,light,perspective and brush techniques you should practice those things first, then return to the current challenge at hand. Or even better do both.
Set yourself a task or two to finish a few digital paintings of interior environments, outdoor environments and natural scenes daily or whenever you have free time (Make sure you study VERY closely from reference). Then after finishing one have another go at the hand painted textures. Do this on a daily basis and you will soon understand all the techniques and processes needed both in practice and theory to achieve the best you can.
That's pretty much the most stellar advice I can offer in regards to all this, there really is no technique to do it well, the techniques posted on this thread are supposed to make it faster/easier for people who already have a background within digital painting.
In the boot camp video, I will go over the following points:
-Color and value
-Composition
-Best practices on organizing layers and groups in photoshop
-Creating a base stone texture
-Creating a base wood texture
-Creating a base metal texture
these points should be enough to chew on for a boot camp tutorial
After the boot camp video, I will create a tutorial on how to make a stylized tree and how to quickly assemble it from scratch.
keep going!