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Resolving Texture Edge Mismatch

polycounter lvl 4
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Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
Is there any decent way to resolve this?
1239640_10102084714292691_1883638613_n.jpg

I ran into this on my gloves as well and I'm looking for a solution on how to improve the texture edges. I'm working in GIMP.

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  • Synaesthesia
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    Synaesthesia polycounter
    You can always do the old fashioned approach. ;-) Keep painting detail that helps close up the seam such as additional white splotches near the edge of the mouth. Save the texture out after each stroke until it's perfect.
  • Haftoof
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    Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
    Is there a new fashioned way? Such as the texture renderer being able to blur across edges as opposed to rendering them in sharp contrast? I'm less worried about the splotches on the skin but rather the color. I see a sharp edge of contrast along the colors and I'm definately looking for a solution on that.

    Right now I have a base layer for the skin color, a layer for the highlights and a layer for the splotches. I already copied the area where the splotches on the main face texture, rotated and pasted them over the mouth so some of that is improved but still.

    Also the real issue in my mind is that I have a texture edge there at all (but as I am learning I started by following the tutorial straight now I can come back and think about it.

    Is there a better way to break up the UV when you have something concave like this mouth that once unwrapped may deform improperly?
  • Synaesthesia
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    Synaesthesia polycounter
    If you were using Mudbox it would paint over the seams with almost no artifacts depending on how well you laid out your UVs. I've done the old fashioned approach for years. I hated the idea of recommending it to you since I've BTDT and know it's a total pain in the ass. :)

    You could try laying out the UVs again by attaching the mouth to the face. If you relax it a bit you shouldn't have any issues. Just make sure that you lay out the inner mouth separately and it should be okay. If you don't want to do that and don't have access to Mudbox, I'm not aware of any other techniques beyond the soul-sucking-save-and-paint-500-times tip I gave you earlier.
  • Haftoof
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    Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
    Hmmm maybe its time to look into this mudbox. I'm new so a lot of the software out there is new to me also. Guess I'll add it to the list along with zbrush and such, if its cheap enough or a trial is available I'll throw it under quick review. Apppreciate the feedback.

    I'll also save off an instance and try remapping the UV's and see how the result goes, if it warps to much I'll just take it as a learning experience, I'll try to match up the texture manually and think about it next time I hit that stage of the work-path.
  • Noors
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    Noors greentooth
    Yes, i don't think you need to break the uv apart here. The least uv seams, the least headaches and also the more optimized is your mesh.
    You just need to have a proper surface to paint, doesn't really mater if it stretches a bit.

    The fashioned way is to use a 3d projection painting program such as zbrush, mudbox, bodypaint, mari, 3dcoat, 3ds max canvas....
    Old fashioned way was ten years ago and heavily based on render to textures and i don't want to talk about it, it's still painful.

    erf sorry, wasnt any response when i started typing.
  • Synaesthesia
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    Synaesthesia polycounter
    I'll save you a bit of work and link the Mudbox trial for you. Give it a shot and see if you like it. I've been using it for a few years and I highly prefer painting in it over any other program. It's great for everything at work - I imagine you'll enjoy it.

    Good luck with your model. I'd like to see how you end up fixing this, so be sure to update it for us. :)
  • Haftoof
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    Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
    I'll look into it this afternoon. I painted miniatures before this and a lot of the same techniques (highlighting, layering, etc) seem to carry over nicely to Photoshop/Gimp type solutions. If Mudbox offers the same ideas in 3d even closer to what I already know (though I never did get the hang of wet blending, its much easier on a computer when you can turn down opacity and flow and undo mistakes).

    Appreciate the link, wonder if they have a student learning edition that is similar to what they have in Maya.

    Update: They do, awesome, this will be easier than I thought. Thanks guys =)
  • Haftoof
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    Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
    As a followup, any good suggestions on learning the mudbox tool?
  • Justin Meisse
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    Justin Meisse polycounter lvl 18
    give 3D Coat a try as well. When I was looking for a 3d paint tool I tried out 3DCoat, Mudbox and Blender. 3D coat was the easiest to pick up and really fit into my workflow nicely.
  • Haftoof
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    Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
    perna wrote: »
    yeah, painting out that seam is going to take infinitely more time than just removing it bro

    I kind of figured :/ I'll use this as an opportunity to try some of the other tools available, I'll save off a copy and try moving the UV back and we'll see how both work and what can be learned. Thanks folks =)
  • Haftoof
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    Haftoof polycounter lvl 4
    So I ended up redoing the UV, you're right, didn't take much time at all. I'll redo the highlighting/shading on it along with finishing the shading on the rest of the model.

    1175626_10102088229662861_936577552_n.jpg
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