[WIP] Nambu Type 14 Japanese Pistol
polycounter lvl 6
Hey Guys,
currently working on a Type 14 pistol. Will paint in the missing details into the normal map the oldschool way. Please rip this thing apart with critic lol
currently working on a Type 14 pistol. Will paint in the missing details into the normal map the oldschool way. Please rip this thing apart with critic lol
Replies
* The magazine catch passes entirely through the grip, appearing on both sides, not just the left.
* The bullets should be rounder, almost hemispherical. (The picture compares the nambu's 8mm vs. a standard 9mm parabellum).
* If you are looking to reduce the polycount, you can probably trim some excess polys from the lanyard ring and attachement, the grip screws, and the magazine release. The trigger and trigger guard also have a central seam which you can also eliminate, saving another hundred or so polys. As always, try to look at it in-game to see which details are never visible and which need additional smoothing; even with today's very generous budgets, it still doesn't make sense to add details that are never visible.
Just dont reduce the polys on the ring, nothing turns more off than a circular shape with not enough polys, especially if its for portfolio usage
Funny how hard they copied the Luger from the germans.
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@ The model. bake looks fairly clean, But I'm not sure i feel the dents/dings you have in the normals. I'd tone those down and keep them away from the edges. I like the idea, But assuming its a Ndo or normal addition, i think it could use some tweaking
Yeah these bumps are quite strong, i will tone them down a lot.
And i made a mistake with the polycount. I posted the polycount of the mixed quad/tri mesh. So here is the right one. Tricount is 6004 tris.
As far as reducing the polygons - you can save a few hundred by removing the holes in the grip and allowing the normal map to handle the shading. Unless the lanyard ring serves a purpose, you can probably safely remove it; it does seem rather meaningless without a lanyard. You can probably simplify the cocking piece - the images I've seen look more like a cylinder within three flattened cylinders, without the expensive fillets. And always try to look at it in-game; if you can't see a detail when playing, you can probably eliminate it.
A little Update. Not too happy with the base dark metal yet. Any tips to improve it?
I know, the edgewear is missing, but i want the base as perfect as possible.
And... what HDR map do you use in Marmoset? Its very difficult to me, to find the perfect metal, if it changes all the time with the lighting. I use Pisa atm.
The grain of the wood should run parallel to the long axis of the grip, and the grooves should be much darker.
The wear from the safety in the following image is a bit extreme, but not unusual. Also note the depth of the wood grain, and the numerous small gouges, especially along the leading edge.
The inscribed text seems too deep - if it's in the diffuse as well as the normal map, you can probably just change the color from black to gray.
You should tone down the noise overlay on the slide, and possibly add a slight brushed steel effect running along the length of the slide.
I haven't touched the chrome parts yet and i added the brass parts for some interesting color variation. But yeah you are right it is too extreme. I will tone it down.
I will also add the damage from the safety later, but first i want to define the base metal as good as possible. The wood is also very WIP atm. I added the symbols in nDo so toning down is no problem
Nearly done i think. Only the chrome and the messing need more love, and of coure the scratch of the safety lever
Edit: Oh I'm sorry the high poly wasn't up for me. Everything is nice
Latest update is looking good. I'd give the lighter metal (bottom of mag mainly) some love. Looking a little flat/plain atm.
Love the colors in the dark metals. Finger prints could be a bit subtler though. And typicaly, I beleive finger prints are glossier, and higher on the spec than the metal they are one. Depending on whether your emulating oil, or emulating someones skin having been burnt onto hot metal. The latter may apear black/darker.
@Chillydog i had some reference with the grooves going only up half way of the grip. Might be some cheaper, late war model.
@s6 Thanks for pointing that out. Will use this knowledge in the next project!