Hello , I want to make some leather seams ... last time I did them I used the following technique ...
Manually painted masks all around the places where needed to be the seams , then I used deformation to extrude parts of them ... the result wasn't really trasheable so I used , but I am sure there is a much better and much faster way ... I took a lot of time to paint manually each seam ...
Lets say I have to make a belt full of seams .... How can I do what's the best approach ? I tought of insertmesh curve but I could'nt find any premade mesh to inser and I couln't make a decent one to use , I tought of alpha roll but also there I couln't find any good seams alpha , so last I tought of simple track tool , Altough when I used didn't really come out that great ... so what's your sugestions to make somethig like that:
Julian Kenning has an x-stitch brush that I think comes included with zbrush (lightbox's beta tester brush directory). If not, then I got it from the repo thread. Similar lacing was also handled in the past by using zspheres and flattening them, though the topology/extraction options might be just as fast depending on the shape.
The other stitching shouldn't be hard to make either, and alphas and insert brushes would work just as well. It's just a tube really, some kind of string or strap. Flatten a cube/cylinder/torus and perhaps give it a slight rotation and voila; you have the shape ready and waiting to be turned into an alpha or insert mesh. With an alpha you can go a little bit fancier and try to include the holes and bumps, while with an insert mesh you'd probably be better off inserting the stitching and then mask it off and sculpt such things into the main sculpt.
I am not sure if I actually Understood well your sugestions, do you think you can post me a visual sample?
You are sugesting to build up a stitch in Photoshop? How can I do stitches that go around a corner or that pass over the leather borders?
I tried my hands with the insert curve mesh but I amn not ending up with anything good , the curves always require me to delete all lower res, then they do not stick really well to the underlying model and I need to make them all around ...
I'm suggesting you build a stitch in any given 3d program, and turn that into an obj for an insert brush, or use zbrush to grab the depth and create an alpha.
The stitching around edges (such as the image of the figure) would be as simple as grabbing the helix3d tool, giving it a uniform radius, adjusting the coverage depending on the desired stitch spacing, deleting the caps and turning it into an IMM brush.
The stitching between different pieces of leather (like in the first two images) is even easier as you're just laying down a single tube and then sculpting around it.
Insert brushes do require a mesh with no lower subdivisions, so the trick is to work on a duplicated subtool. Select the subtool that you want to use as a base to draw on, duplicate it, delete whatever subdivision levels you don't need, draw out your insertions, group them into their own polygroup, and then delete the rest of the subtool.
It's not a 'press-for-stitches' technique. Take advantage of the curve's ability to be modified after the fact, and spend a a few minutes pulling it into and along the surface.
I'm suggesting you build a stitch in any given 3d program, and turn that into an obj for an insert brush, or use zbrush to grab the depth and create an alpha.
Ok I can create that but you mean a simple U shaped thing?
The stitching around edges (such as the image of the figure) would be as simple as grabbing the helix3d tool, giving it a uniform radius, adjusting the coverage depending on the desired stitch spacing, deleting the caps and turning it into an IMM brush.
that I don't know what is the helix3dtool or what you are talking of
The stitching between different pieces of leather (like in the first two images) is even easier as you're just laying down a single tube and then sculpting around it.
Insert brushes do require a mesh with no lower subdivisions, so the trick is to work on a duplicated subtool. Select the subtool that you want to use as a base to draw on, duplicate it, delete whatever subdivision levels you don't need, draw out your insertions, group them into their own polygroup, and then delete the rest of the subtool.
It's not a 'press-for-stitches' technique. Take advantage of the curve's ability to be modified after the fact, and spend a a few minutes pulling it into and along the surface.
Ok but Still didn't understood how to process your first two sentences are you sugesting so to go straight with the 3d insert mesh? but how ? I didn't understand those two points sorry I am still learning zbrush ...
That's the kind of armor I want to do ...
I have already made the base mesh ... not sure if you have the time or will but in case if You want I can send you a base model and you can show me on that what you mean with some pics?
Thats the best I could get, Doesn't look like the one you did , I am doing something wrong for sure but not sure how to get your results, do you think you have the time to explain more in detail how yu did it ? ...
Also I tried rotating in 90 x y or z but I can't get it to get align ... what is the actual alignement and how I know what is corresponding to the axial direction of the rope ?
Created the helix , set initialize to 3 spires and lowered the curve tha tbumped the central part to a flat one ...
then I have used cntrl to mask the whole thing and then cntrl alt to mask out the bottom caps , then created polygroups out of them and hidden , then deleted them ...
then I went to deformation and I turned on x and off z pressed 90 degrees and finally I created the brush insert mesh ...
I then loaded the other tool where I was working with the belt and I set up the curve mode .. drawed and the spirals are still in vertical position ... what did I do htat is wrong?
It still gets vertical , I don't understand I even resetted the brushes befoure doing the whole process again ....!
What can be doing wrong?
I even tried shutting down zbrush and reload ...
pick the helix, fix it with initialize , then turn into a 3d polymesh , delete the caps , rotate in x direction by 90 , make a IMM brsuh , unpload my base model obj and apply on it the curve mesh brush with that helix but are always vertical ...
adjust the brush and stroke modifiers (enable stretch, decrease the step size... play around with some options and check out the IMM tutorials on the zclassroom / online docs)
Still trying to fix that , I put the step size to 0.91 and seems quite close but there is still a small minimal gap , not that will be much visible for my purpouse but I wonder how coudl I do to place exactly them to stick one at the other ...
Other than that I dunno for what reason I got a duplicate , as shows the picture , the darker one is the unwanted duplicate that I discovered beeing there after I moved a bit the curve ...
how that created itself ? and how I eliminate?
I wanted to turn then this into a subtool and clone / mirror on theother side and lower adjoust for the other levels , I can't clone and use still the curve to adjoust the position of the new belt rings?
I need to make new curve insert rings for the other levels?
Select the edges you want it to follow and in edit poly click "create shape".
This will create a spline, in "Rendering" check on, "Enable in Viewport".
Apply PathDeform(WSM) to the Helix and set it's target to a path spline that you just created.
In the helix you can adjust the height and number of turns as needed to cover the path.
If for some reason you have a really long path and you can't get enough turns out of the helix, you can shrink its height until you get the right spacing and then convert it to editable spline and copy it a few times and weld them together.
The cause could be any number of things without knowing what you're doing to create the brush (which really should be a quick process). But as it is it looks like the duplicate version is it's own polygroup, and if you're going to split them anyway, just delete it then.
They're already two polygroups on your image, you don't have to touch the polygroup subpalette (nor should you unless you're absolutely sure everything is welded). If the additional helix curve is not it's own polygroup then it means that it's darker because it's masked which means it was created from a previous insertion, and can either way be split.
This is what I am doing , I preferred to use the Cyrid solution because doing the rings in 3dsmax and then export woudl have probably messed things up when I went to subdivide them .. but in the low poly model I will do if it the stirches will just be visible as normal map bumps ...
What you think I am applying well what I was sugested ?
When you retopologize the for the low poly are you just gonna gave the stitching merge with the body? Or is the stitching going to be retopolized on its own?
Replies
The other stitching shouldn't be hard to make either, and alphas and insert brushes would work just as well. It's just a tube really, some kind of string or strap. Flatten a cube/cylinder/torus and perhaps give it a slight rotation and voila; you have the shape ready and waiting to be turned into an alpha or insert mesh. With an alpha you can go a little bit fancier and try to include the holes and bumps, while with an insert mesh you'd probably be better off inserting the stitching and then mask it off and sculpt such things into the main sculpt.
You are sugesting to build up a stitch in Photoshop? How can I do stitches that go around a corner or that pass over the leather borders?
I tried my hands with the insert curve mesh but I amn not ending up with anything good , the curves always require me to delete all lower res, then they do not stick really well to the underlying model and I need to make them all around ...
The stitching around edges (such as the image of the figure) would be as simple as grabbing the helix3d tool, giving it a uniform radius, adjusting the coverage depending on the desired stitch spacing, deleting the caps and turning it into an IMM brush.
The stitching between different pieces of leather (like in the first two images) is even easier as you're just laying down a single tube and then sculpting around it.
Insert brushes do require a mesh with no lower subdivisions, so the trick is to work on a duplicated subtool. Select the subtool that you want to use as a base to draw on, duplicate it, delete whatever subdivision levels you don't need, draw out your insertions, group them into their own polygroup, and then delete the rest of the subtool.
It's not a 'press-for-stitches' technique. Take advantage of the curve's ability to be modified after the fact, and spend a a few minutes pulling it into and along the surface.
Ok I can create that but you mean a simple U shaped thing?
that I don't know what is the helix3dtool or what you are talking of a single tube? What do you mean a ring? Yes I got that ...
Ok but Still didn't understood how to process your first two sentences are you sugesting so to go straight with the 3d insert mesh? but how ? I didn't understand those two points sorry I am still learning zbrush ...
That's the kind of armor I want to do ...
I have already made the base mesh ... not sure if you have the time or will but in case if You want I can send you a base model and you can show me on that what you mean with some pics?
http://www.heycomputer.com/Conan-The-Barbarian_780c0ccc.jpg
A tool inside zbrush.
Edit:
I tried rotate the spiral befoure turning into a mesh insert but it still sticks in vertical position and doesn't follow the flow ...
Is there another way to fix this?
Also, remember to delete the caps on each end of the spiral so that they can be stitch together seamlessly
.... mmmm you mean by using perhaps the deformation tools? I did rotate with the rotate button and didn't allow for 90 Degrees setting...
Also what you mean by the caps ? and how you deleted them ?
Also I tried rotating in 90 x y or z but I can't get it to get align ... what is the actual alignement and how I know what is corresponding to the axial direction of the rope ?
Use ctrl+shift to hide them, then use tool: geometry: del hidden to delete them
This is what I did ..
Created the helix , set initialize to 3 spires and lowered the curve tha tbumped the central part to a flat one ...
then I have used cntrl to mask the whole thing and then cntrl alt to mask out the bottom caps , then created polygroups out of them and hidden , then deleted them ...
then I went to deformation and I turned on x and off z pressed 90 degrees and finally I created the brush insert mesh ...
I then loaded the other tool where I was working with the belt and I set up the curve mode .. drawed and the spirals are still in vertical position ... what did I do htat is wrong?
What can be doing wrong?
I even tried shutting down zbrush and reload ...
pick the helix, fix it with initialize , then turn into a 3d polymesh , delete the caps , rotate in x direction by 90 , make a IMM brsuh , unpload my base model obj and apply on it the curve mesh brush with that helix but are always vertical ...
but there is a gap between the helix and the next , how can I do to exactly make match the distances so that where one ends the next starts?
Also when I bend the curve they get intersecting ...
Other than that I dunno for what reason I got a duplicate , as shows the picture , the darker one is the unwanted duplicate that I discovered beeing there after I moved a bit the curve ...
how that created itself ? and how I eliminate?
I wanted to turn then this into a subtool and clone / mirror on theother side and lower adjoust for the other levels , I can't clone and use still the curve to adjoust the position of the new belt rings?
I need to make new curve insert rings for the other levels?
But Still I woudl like to know the problem I pointed in my previous post and how to fix it ..
- Create a Helix spline.
- Select the edges you want it to follow and in edit poly click "create shape".
- This will create a spline, in "Rendering" check on, "Enable in Viewport".
- Apply PathDeform(WSM) to the Helix and set it's target to a path spline that you just created.
- In the helix you can adjust the height and number of turns as needed to cover the path.
If for some reason you have a really long path and you can't get enough turns out of the helix, you can shrink its height until you get the right spacing and then convert it to editable spline and copy it a few times and weld them together.Mark - Dygert I will have to try that too thanks ...
What you think I am applying well what I was sugested ?
How's coming ?
Looks good, meh , sucks or what?