Another HK UMP 45

BertR

Hello y'all,

I've been busy with this HK UMP 45 (bet you haven't seen that one before ^^) last time, and it's almost finished now. Beside this, I'm planning to create some attachments (silencer, laser, foregrip and scope) to make it more badass and interesting. I'll post the progress on those.

The model contains 4630 tris, and is rendered in Marmoset (/w diff/spec/normal)

Any crits and / or tips are appreciated









Normal Only


Normal Only




And the HighPoly

CyberGameArts

Dude teach me!!!! looks so awesome! I wish i could do that Same with the Ak on your portfolio! How did you become this good?

JoshWilkinson

This is coming along nicely and I think the base texture for the whole model is looking ace. However the scratches read as though they were painted on instead of naturally occurring due to actual wear, particularly on the rail. It's very difficult to explain but check this out:


Be careful with scratches occurring deep between the rail notches because most attachments grip the extrusions on the sides and a bar or two that extends the width of the rail, but the attachments won't really ever touch the bottom edges except in installation and removal. It's also my experience that when something is installed, it's a very snug fit and will not rub against surfaces too much. Obviously with that in mind, instruments on top mean no scratches on the rail surfaces and minimal on rail crevices (assuming it's only been installed and removed a small handful of times). Man, I've never done rails but this write up is telling me how complicated the texture is... I definitely appreciate this more now.

I have an EOTech holographic sight that's only six rails long and the rest hovers over the rail surface. Try making scratches that allude to certain things once existing n certain areas. Telling a story like that will do a wonderful job of selling your fiction. Good luck and consider me interested in your progress!

Add3r

BringMeASunkist is completely right about the rails. There is normally next to no wear between the rail studs. And this is coming from someone who has used/owns many railed guns as well as plays airsoft with 1:1 replicas such as this UMP. Eventually (if used enough), the whole top of the rail will just be silver due to wear and tear and the inside of the studs, there will be almost no wear. Mainly on the sides due to the attachment claws and the tips of the rails since the rail studs are also indented, making sort of a valley shape in the middle of the rail studs) instead of flat. If you are showing wear on the rail itself like that, then you should definitely even it out throughout the gun as well. When a rail is used that extensively to add that much wear, you are normally going to have wear on the top and sides of the front sight, charging handle, front of barrel (which is normally threaded for attachments), as well as the selector switch, where the switch itself makes a light ring where it meets the lower receiver. The front of the magwell gets some wear as well due to ppl using it as a foregrip and place to rest the gun for a temporary bipod.

Awesome work so far! The tri count is pretty awesome for what you have Keep it up, I will watch this progress. This texture work isnt easy at all. Probably the hardest part about guns to get right

gilesruscoe

Hey man, looking good but all your metal (including the bullets in the mag) is off. Can you post up flats? It looks to me like the diffuse for the bare metal parts is too bright and the specular is too dark.

Jacque's metal guide:

BertR

@CyberGameArts
Thanks, I appreciate your enthousiasm, though I don't think I'm thatgood :P Just trying, practicing and repeating will improve skills.

@BringMeASunkist
You're right. 90% of my reference mats of those rails weren't realy damaged, just wanted to give them some more color variating, in contrast to the all black body of the UMP. Might just have 'slighly' overdone that I'll fix that next time!

@Add3r
Will keep those scratch positions in mind. The absence of switch wear is just plain stupid forgotten, though the mag and barrel wouldn't have come to my mind before. I too think that the texturing part is the hardest part, at least to create something realistic. Therefore this is a good practise!

@gilesruscoe
Thanks for the guide. Everytime I'm starting a new texture, it's always kind of trial and error. I'll tweak the materials of the bullets. I forgot btw the transparent plastic in the magazines, which will make the bullets IN the magazine less visible, though they still need some time indeed.
I haven't created a Gloss map, since that is fused with Spec maps in Marmoset (or does Marmoset uses the alpha as gloss? not sure about that)
Here are the flats, used 2K maps,just scaled these down

osk

solid and clean job. only critic is a bit lack of specularity

JoshWilkinson

Hey boss, to answer your question: yes, marmoset uses the alpha of the specular to create gloss. The now famous racer445 tutorial cane be a wonderful introduction to gloss maps. Good luck!

BertR

Redone the bullets a bit, think they look better now.
Also put in the transparent plastic in the magazine, though I'm not sure about that.
It looks better when looking from an angle, but it also creates a kind of gulfy edges in the magazine... (Could be ofcourse a shaderbug in Marmoset - opacity always have some strange sideeffects)

Edit: Also there is a smoothing error on the magazine, fixing that now

BertR

Had some very busy weeks, but found some time to create the silencer.
Tried to play a little with a gloss map on this one.
It's slightly longer that the original one (AngryGun), I think it looks a slightly cooler
Also removed the damage on the rails, though it feels a little 'too clean' for me now... Any opinions?