Highpoly Kriss Super Vector
polycounter lvl 11
Hey guys,
I've been forcing myself to learn how to highpoly model recently, and decided to take upon a project...
I've chosen the Kriss Super Vector, and here is what I have so far. I spent about 3 hours on this, working on more as you read this.
Refs:
Current model progress:
I feel like a few of my edges are a bit sharp (for baking), but I want to get your opinion before I do anything.
I've been forcing myself to learn how to highpoly model recently, and decided to take upon a project...
I've chosen the Kriss Super Vector, and here is what I have so far. I spent about 3 hours on this, working on more as you read this.
Refs:
Current model progress:
I feel like a few of my edges are a bit sharp (for baking), but I want to get your opinion before I do anything.
Replies
How low poly will your low-poly be too?
I usually can optimize pretty well, so it will probably be less than that.
I'm modeling out the holographic sights now.
I'm trying to find some pictures of the ironsights, but am not having much luck. Anyone got any?
BUUUULLLLLLLLLLLLLLLET
UNTIL NOW. ~~~explosion sound effect here~~~
since i'm just sitting here sniping ebay auctions for arcade PCBs, i guess i'll help you out. congrats: the model seems accurate enough, so your main problems are the usual edge thickness and non-committal angles/curves.
edge thickness is simple: give each material a nice fat edge bevel with an appropriate width, and keep it consistent. what do i mean per material? well, metals will get a thinner highlight than plastics. no, this does NOT mean either should get sharp highlights, nor should they get soft ones; just that plastics should get a wider edge bevel than metals, they should be nice and fat all around. you can just tell when a model has a good edge treatment at a glance, since it catches much more light in all the right places, they look great in bakes and in untextured renders.
the most important thing right now is to even them out. the holosight looks really blobby but the sights are super thin, and they're right next to each other! go all around the gun and try to make each edge of the metals an equal width, then do the same for the plastics.
next, if you want to take it one step further, try to eliminate the softness. it should only take 30 minutes tops to add in some extra geo which is very worth it. here's an image with a traditional "soft" edge cube, and on the right one with some extra geo to control the edges better. each cube is on 3x subdivision.
notice the highlight falloff? the left one (regular subd cube) makes the model feel amateurish--so you want the right one in most situations.
you also have a few curves that don't look too solid, like you don't have enough loops to end the curve so they just slowly slope off. you have quite a number of these so they're worth addressing. example: you have the left, you want the right:
also clean up the messy geo on the stock by the hinge, it's nasty.
hope this helps
I know it's pretty bad, and I just found an ngon and a triangle as I'm looking at it... But I'm just going to start from scratch. Plus, there is supposed to be a hinge on the other side which I couldn't fit the geo in correctly for the life of me, so I made it float.
I got one of my friends who has a nice camera and a Kriss Super V to help me by taking some pics of it. Here is a pic of the hinge/stock conversion.
And I realized that I'm stuck with 2 triangles...ugh. Should I go into detail and try to model the hole there with the question mark? I was thinking about just doing that in the texture, but idk.
As for the tightening up of the geometry corners, I have difficulty doing that because some of my loops might be directed wrong and most of the time I cant fix the other areas it messed up.
Here is a wireframe screen grab: