Hello Everyone. I am happy to finish this WWII German Panzer IV Tank. I worked off and on for a long time. Please check out the high res images on my artstation! https://www.artstation.com/artwork/GXOQdB
Thanks for the kind words. I am setting up better habits and working hard until my goals are met. But I know it will take time. Putting in the time each day until my portfolio is better.
Getting there. Moving on to the A-sym parts. Until I have the base model down. Then decide on extra or another level of details from there in Zbrush and welding.
My German Panzer IV High Poly I believe is pretty much done. If anyone can give me CC on this before I start doing the Low Poly let me know. I have spent about two months on this in my spare time. Its probably the most complex 3d project I have done and I am pretty happy with it so far. Keep pushing myself to be the best I can be. https://www.artstation.com/artist/zerostrike
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my project so far.
So its been alittle bit. I am currently work on my LP and I having alittle trouble with the treads for a LP method. I'm pretty sure that there is two methods. 1 being a LP with enough geo to get a good bake on an individual tread then instance it along a spline. 2 being the UI tile method. I wanted to try to do method 1, but its really high. I tried to reduce it as much as possible on the individual. Currently is 452tri. I have 88 links. So 40k on one side. So alittle less then 80k on the treads alone. What is a good range for a LP on a tank like this? Can I reduce this anymore then I have right now? Or is the UI tile method a better option?
I don't have a good answer to your question about the treads but I'd be interested in knowing what people who have done tanks for games like Call of Duty or Battlefield would say. In Warthunder I think they use a tiling texture on a simple "box loop" for some tanks but a more detailed version for others. I don't think they use individually modeled treads though but I'm guessing you're going for a showpiece so the 216poly treads you showed would probably work.
Yep. I have gotten some feedback on the facebook 10k group and they pretty much said the same things. Yes the box loop and UV tile is the game cheaper way. And the way I am currently working on it is expensive, but it looks nicer. I think I am going to go with the 216tri version. Thanks for the feed back.
Working on both a Low Poly and a 3d Printable version of my Panzer 4. More updates on the Low Poly later.
I had a general question about 3d printing. As a general rule of thumb can your model's geo have interpenetrating faces? Can you just union the sub objects into one piece or do you have to cut out and weld all the section together for 3d printing?
I have loaded my STL files into Preform for Form2 and I am able to get them to be ready to printing through their one click loader system. For more details on my project check out.
Its a question i also consider during my tank modelling (geometry per link or tileable texture approach) and for portfolio stuff i now pretty much stick with the individual link route. War Thunder does the tileable texture approach but with multiple layers of textures with alpha to build up the illusion of 3D links, but World of Tanks new HD tanks use separate links.
Yea the individual link route will look nicer for the portfolio. But for gameplay it be better for tiling texture is the consensus from what I gathered from different people. I am hoping to get the LP in a good state so I can start texturing which is where things really begin.
To be honest....you can easily do both and swap them out depending on the purpose. Have the individual link UVs on one of your other texture atlases, (as it doesn't take up much space so can easily be squeezed in somewhere) and then the tiling texture approach is on a separate atlas anyway.
I would recommend, even for the tiling texture approach is to go down a War Thunder route, which uses multi layers of polygon loops and alpha to layer up the track to get the illusion of depth. The image below demonstrates this the best, (albeit with a very crude paint over), hope it helps.
To be honest....you can easily do both and swap them out depending on the purpose. Have the individual link UVs on one of your other texture atlases, (as it doesn't take up much space so can easily be squeezed in somewhere) and then the tiling texture approach is on a separate atlas anyway.
I would recommend, even for the tiling texture approach is to go down a War Thunder route, which uses multi layers of polygon loops and alpha to layer up the track to get the illusion of depth. The image below demonstrates this the best, (albeit with a very crude paint over), hope it helps.
Anyways, I really like your Panzer IV model! The only thing that bugs me it's the lack of the gunner's sight (or its hidden?) and the weirdly shaped gunner's small front hatch in the front-right of the turret, right beside the main cannon barrel (can't remember how it's called). You can clearly see it in this photo:
Otherwise good job! I can't wait to see it with textures!
@MarcoAntonio Do you have an example for the wear effects?
There are probably a lot of references on google @ZeroStrike . Just search for them. In general I see a good work here besides that. Keep the good work!
Hello Everyone. I am happy to finish this WWII German Panzer IV Tank. I worked off and on for a long time. Please check out the high res images on my artstation! https://www.artstation.com/artwork/GXOQdB
Well done, looks like solid work. The gif you posted looks great.
one suggestion I have would be to change the background on the still images, the tank kind of gets lost in it because it is the same color and value. I know that's sort of the point of the desert camo paint job but for presentation purposes it becomes a bit difficult to separate the vehicle from the environment.
@AutoExit Thank you so much. @CrackRockSteady Yea. There have been a few suggestions to improve everything. One of them is to change the environment and the type of camo paint. Tan is too hard to see.
Replies
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my project so far.
So its been alittle bit. I am currently work on my LP and I having alittle trouble with the treads for a LP method. I'm pretty sure that there is two methods. 1 being a LP with enough geo to get a good bake on an individual tread then instance it along a spline. 2 being the UI tile method. I wanted to try to do method 1, but its really high. I tried to reduce it as much as possible on the individual. Currently is 452tri. I have 88 links. So 40k on one side. So alittle less then 80k on the treads alone. What is a good range for a LP on a tank like this? Can I reduce this anymore then I have right now? Or is the UI tile method a better option?
Working on both a Low Poly and a 3d Printable version of my Panzer 4. More updates on the Low Poly later.
I had a general question about 3d printing. As a general rule of thumb can your model's geo have interpenetrating faces? Can you just union the sub objects into one piece or do you have to cut out and weld all the section together for 3d printing?
I have loaded my STL files into Preform for Form2 and I am able to get them to be ready to printing through their one click loader system.
For more details on my project check out.
Thanks for checking out my project.
I would recommend, even for the tiling texture approach is to go down a War Thunder route, which uses multi layers of polygon loops and alpha to layer up the track to get the illusion of depth. The image below demonstrates this the best, (albeit with a very crude paint over), hope it helps.
Whisky
Artstation for better res.
https://www.artstation.com/artwork/0k8m4
Anyways, I really like your Panzer IV model! The only thing that bugs me it's the lack of the gunner's sight (or its hidden?) and the weirdly shaped gunner's small front hatch in the front-right of the turret, right beside the main cannon barrel (can't remember how it's called). You can clearly see it in this photo:
Otherwise good job! I can't wait to see it with textures!
Those textures however... They need some more work. The wear effect for example is too uniform.
In general I see a good work here besides that. Keep the good work!
one suggestion I have would be to change the background on the still images, the tank kind of gets lost in it because it is the same color and value. I know that's sort of the point of the desert camo paint job but for presentation purposes it becomes a bit difficult to separate the vehicle from the environment.
@CrackRockSteady Yea. There have been a few suggestions to improve everything. One of them is to change the environment and the type of camo paint. Tan is too hard to see.