Big improvement here already. This body is off to a way, wayyy better start than the first one.
Also, draw! Nobody cares if its an in depth study of human anatomy, but keep anatomy in mind. Draw cool poses, draw little parts of the body, draw stylized, draw realistic, but always be aware of the anatomy. How do muscles flow into eachother? How does the body move? What shows strength, power? This guy already looks stronger than your musclebound monster just from having a more natural, curvy musculature.
Something a lot of beginners forget is that cartoon anatomy is just as important as realistic anatomy, is just as important as monster anatomy, is just as important as human anatomy, blahblahblah. To learn to sell convincing, interesting bodies, you have to get a handle of anatomy. This doesnt necessarily mean all day everyday copying medical textbooks.
Also, draw! Nobody cares if its an in depth study of human anatomy, but keep anatomy in mind. Draw cool poses, draw little parts of the body, draw stylized, draw realistic, but always be aware of the anatomy. How do muscles flow into eachother? How does the body move? What shows strength, power?
After 2 years without much drawing I'll try to get back to that.
This guy already looks stronger than your musclebound monster just from having a more natural, curvy musculature.
Yeh, the brest and chest look more powerfull I think. Even tough hes not posed i like the "natural/default pose" more.
You guys were realy right about that ;P
Nothing big jsut removed one one loop aggain.
Browsing for some hand tutorials now.
are you aiming for a mesh that can be sculpted? or just making low poly only?
either way i guess my best advice is to strip it right down, remove about 1/4 of the edges that are there, and focus on giving him a big bold silouhette. once you've got that most basic of forms down, you can start refining.
remember, try to make every vertex work for itself, if it's not helping to define shape (externally) then delete it.
are you aiming for a mesh that can be sculpted? or just making low poly only?
Disco Stu asked that bevore.
I am not shure, I got no experiance in sculpring so I think I do not aim for a sculptable mesh. I guess i try to make a good basemesh that is ready for subD modelling to add details, yet I want to maintain it rig-able.
either way i guess my best advice is to strip it right down, remove about 1/4 of the edges that are there, and focus on giving him a big bold silouhette. once you've got that most basic of forms down, you can start refining.
remember, try to make every vertex work for itself, if it's not helping to define shape (externally) then delete it.
I once aggain created edgeloops that are needed at oen point bunt run over the whole model, I am still afrait of getting to many triangles and that loop adding is the simplest way of preventing triangles.
I think I'll create hand and feet and then do a big cleanup.
After that I'll face my nightmare - face modeling
Thanks SupRore!
I realy fail... not searching the forum itself *facepalm*.
Sorry bout that.
I found another, simple enougth, tutorial http://plissken.fatalunity.com/tutorials/subdiv/step3.html
I would reproduce it to this result...
... but isn't that a bit cheap?
Yeah, i would not say that's a particularly good example. check out the polycount wiki link and the maya videotutorial in the thread i linked for a better idea of solid hand end results.
Geez... on the limb wiki site there are hands.
I excuse for my inability to think and scroll today :S
So that's what I will try
Should not be to many triangles.
Yeh, but I wanna subD it later on, and if i keep the tri count low I got lesss work refining.
Yes, noobs should just practice and not worry about such stuff, but... ye know.
That lowpoly hand is actualy harder than expected
Did he campfer verts for the fingers?
Hand done! Guess that's it for today.
I were not able to reproduce the hand from the wiki and since did not want to 1:1 copy that thing anyway I just experimented.
Is it ok that way? Maybe some thoughts on triangle ellimination?
thing is mate, practicing your polyflow IS important, i agree.
however, it's something that will be mastered in time regardless of how hard you push it. something that is much more important to master early on is efficient poly usage and how to build your models "forms".
thing is mate, practicing your polyflow IS important, i agree.
however, it's something that will be mastered in time regardless of how hard you push it. something that is much more important to master early on is efficient poly usage and how to build your models "forms".
I never realy think about the polycount, but thats probably not the only thing you mean. I'm shure that efficient poly usage needs it's time too.
Do you see any massive flaws in efficiency here, I mean, for my level?
Is the hand a bit to small?
I am realy happy so far! Can't wait to see how far I can push it with your help
Thanks guys
(My topic needs a new title I think, since he is not overdone anymore :P )
id put hat hand a bit upwards and rotate it outwards maybe scale it a bit up (and what i learned from neox,here its a bit overdone because the wrist is broken but see the thing sticking out?, its a bone thats sticking out a bit, , makes good hands)
id put hat hand a bit upwards and rotate it outwards maybe scale it a bit up (and what i learned from neox,here its a bit overdone because the wrist is broken but see the thing sticking out?, its a bone thats sticking out a bit, , makes good hands)
That wrist joint bone would require more loops, I think there are already to many :S
The hand isnt too small, but the arms are too big.
Muscle-wise too big or too long? Or both?
I posted the ortho view cuz I already thought they might be wrong, so you could check that.
My ref got the arms down and I can't quite compare
you seem to be the same as i was when i first started 3d art, unwilling to take a step backward in order to move forward. you started the thread with your idea of the perfect polyflow but weren't sure how to impliment it. the reason i can think of for this is your lack of understanding of basic 3d form.
you don't need a lot of fancy edge loops, you don't need to jump in at the deep end. my advice would be to start over. build your base mesh, concentrate on the silouhette, and THEN work on your looping and details.
the best mesh i can think of for you to study is this:
it's a basemesh that Arshlevon built a few years ago, and from my point of view it's almost the perfect mesh to build off of if you're trying to figure out how to start your mesh correctly. it's pretty much living proof that you don't need to go mental with polygons in order to achieve a good shape or outline.
so yeah, take a step back, simplify your work, break it right down to the very basics. start with 5 or 6 sided cylinders, select the edge loops that are already there, and scale them one at a time (loop wise) until you've got a good solid silouhette. THEN start blocking in your muscle masses etc.
you seem to be the same as i was when i first started 3d art, unwilling to take a step backward in order to move forward. you started the thread with your idea of the perfect polyflow but weren't sure how to impliment it. the reason i can think of for this is your lack of understanding of basic 3d form.
you don't need a lot of fancy edge loops, you don't need to jump in at the deep end. my advice would be to start over. build your base mesh, concentrate on the silouhette, and THEN work on your looping and details.
wouldn't my current basemesh be ok if i remove the additional loops?
I created it from 8 sided cyls (makes the welding of the arms and legs easier)
the best mesh i can think of for you to study is this:
Hmm... shall i start form cylinders aggain or cut down my current basemesh, I think the shape is not that bad at all. But as you say, I don't have the right eye for that yet. Comparing your imange and mine i just think about removing several edgeloops at the stomach and the sindes of the chest.
so yeah, take a step back, simplify your work, break it right down to the very basics. start with 5 or 6 sided cylinders, select the edge loops that are already there, and scale them one at a time (loop wise) until you've got a good solid silouhette. THEN start blocking in your muscle masses etc.
Hmm... I will remove the loops and try to get more of the shape from the picture you provided, so back to the stat where my model was made from 8-Sided Cylinders.
Once aggain: I don't have the eye to see whats wrong with my current shape (besides of me trying to give him muscles aggain), so i will reduce some loops aggain to the state where it was made of 8-sided cyls.
EDIT: already messed it to much, I'll start over aggain.
More practice, wohoo! :P
Gonna take this for the concept planes this time (cant fidn my last ones on google but they were more muscular)
Maybe I'll try to draw the edgeflow from gir's example onto them.
I'd need side and back view of that basemesh too :S
Arshlevon's hompage is offline.
I just found a good purpose for my second monitor haha!
Use it for constant display of the picture gir provided
better way of doing it would have been to just look at it, and replicate, instead of tracing over the top :P
I traced the shilouette and the positions of the front verticies, tha back and depth are my attampt ;P
But I AM trying to understand what poly is for what muscle, understandign the details and flow. I realy wanna learn something
Currently I'm trying to get the lower arm right. He kinda "twisted?" the cylinder to get the shape of the ulna muscle. (See? I already learned )
Replicating that thing I realy seem to understand what detail is possible with only that few polys, it'ts amazing! Also I am happy that the head actualy looks like I could to that too
Looks so thin at the end. Are biceps n triceps to broad? But then the arm would be too thin I think. What is it that makes it look wrong?
bring the verts in at his back a bit. in at the triceps a bit, out at the elbow on both sides, and the forearm could be thicker all over. but not too much. the wrist is about the right thickness.
The joints that connect the parts of the fingers are not exactly the same size. I think a bit bigger, especially the knuckles. Check your ref better.
Also where the fingers connect to the hand you have this... depth thing going on, that's bad. Behind the knuckles the hand is quite smooth, so you should move those two verts closer to the knuckles. And maybe your fingers are a bit too long? (exept the thumb).
bring the verts in at his back a bit. in at the triceps a bit, out at the elbow on both sides, and the forearm could be thicker all over. but not too much. the wrist is about the right thickness.
Did most of that myself now, gonna have a look at the triceps like you suggested.
The joints that connect the parts of the fingers are not exactly the same size. I think a bit bigger, especially the knuckles. Check your ref better.
Also where the fingers connect to the hand you have this... depth thing going on, that's bad. Behind the knuckles the hand is quite smooth, so you should move those two verts closer to the knuckles. And maybe your fingers are a bit too long? (exept the thumb).
Yeh, that hand didn't do the job. It was aggain such a "to many polys for to less detail" thing. I had no clue how to refine the knuckles tough. The new hand will be created in a other manner and I'll take care not gettign such "Spiderleg Fingers" aggain
Keep in mind, there is no 1 way of doing any of this and there is no step by step method to doing this. You simply have to push, pull and cut untill it looks right. From there you can go back and clean up your mesh. As everyone has said before, get the forms right first. The simpler the better. I think your slowly coming around with this new attempt but dont just trace and try to mimic the cuts. You need to learn to analyze your own mesh and make it do what you want.
Keep in mind, there is no 1 way of doing any of this and there is no step by step method to doing this. You simply have to push, pull and cut untill it looks right. From there you can go back and clean up your mesh. As everyone has said before, get the forms right first. The simpler the better. I think your slowly coming around with this new attempt but dont just trace and try to mimic the cuts. You need to learn to analyze your own mesh and make it do what you want.
I totaly aggre with you, yet consider this is my 2nd attempt at human anatomy.
I am trying to keep myself from tracing (I can't trace more than the siluette anyway) so that I understand rather than copy. Neverless I try to get this model close to the original. Whah I also like is that this model got a good ammount of loops. I starded with cylinders, refined them and added loops step by step.
This way I am also trying to understand the workflow.
Don't worry, I use my brain and do not try a plain copy it.
After I finished tihs model I will try one with non-wire references.
I think I will spend most of my 2 weeks just creating basemeshes ;P
Little update here:
Did the hand with help of the X-Ray picture SupRore provided and then tried to pose it relaxed like in the wireframe reference.
So no tracing at all this time
Nice! I have ben working on a muscled monster, but I made most of the work in Zbrush, I started with a very simple Base mesh made of 4 sided Boxes mainly. here is an example of how its looking by now, Later i will have to use retopology to get a clean mesh though.
Nice! I have ben working on a muscled monster, but I made most of the work in Zbrush, I started with a very simple Base mesh made of 4 sided Boxes mainly. here is an example of how its looking by now, Later i will have to use retopology to get a clean mesh though.
[IMG][/img]
Ofcouse I could use mudbox's Iuman basemesh and try sculpt a bit, but meh...
I wanna try it in max. That way i should get a good understanding of edgeflow and shape I think. Whitch will make retopolygy a lot easier I guess
Done
Already added smoothing groups for unwrapping... just in case.
So, what shall I do now?
I could create a basemesh without wireframe ref, but that would bore me atm.
Should I already try sculpting?
the 5: what exactly would be the case where you would need smoothinggroups to unwrap? o.o
I can't quite explain. I heard it in a tutorial and here on the forum it has been mentioned too. It's cuz of the normalmap baking I think, preventing seams.
I think it was something about that.
But I mainly used smoothingroups here to define UV Islands. The Tex-Tools plugin for max takes advantage of smoothign groups afaik.
You used arsh's model? Is it downlaodable somewhere?
A link would be nice Neox.
its just the one you traced, get your self a copy of silo and you'll have it, as its part of the software now i doubt its really legal for me to upload it somewhere
its just the one you traced, get your self a copy of silo and you'll have it, as its part of the software now i doubt its really legal for me to upload it somewhere
Yeh, I know its the one I just traced but the original could not harm.
Anyways I din't know it comes with silo so nvm.
I added a few loops for the face, it's not the ultimate topology but should be fine.
Now I got such a nice basemesh but don't know what to do with it
EDIT:
Did something with it.
You character artist shurely will lynch me for that.
Consider it took me ~15 minutes.
Actually neox they give it out free, it's just in sib format and i have no idea where my silo key is. I cant imagine they'd give out the data and then be lawyered up in case someone converts it to obj http://www.nevercenter.com/wiki/index.php?title=Free_3D_Models
anyway man the base is looking good. The clothes not so much, but if you only spent 15 minutes then that's why! more time! And reference!
Actually neox they give it out free, it's just in sib format and i have no idea where my silo key is. I cant imagine they'd give out the data and then be lawyered up in case someone converts it to obj http://www.nevercenter.com/wiki/index.php?title=Free_3D_Models
Hmm, if they make it aviable to the publick it should be fine... I guess.
Did't find a way to convert it myself so far, well it's not that important.
I someone feels like sending me the .obj, feel free to do so.
anyway man the base is looking good. The clothes not so much, but if you only spent 15 minutes then that's why! more time! And reference!
I'll try to get some inspiration for something more interesting, I would not expend much effort into a vanilla marine I think.
Gonna browse through my references folder and see if I find something nice (and do-able ofcouse)
weirdly, arshes basemesh is also included in the Cryptic AR download, which can be found just by googling "arshlevon basemesh".
anyway. i didn't intend for you to trace it, but rather to study it. which is why i said you should have it on a sepperate monitor or floating over max or something. that way you're the one doing the work to make the right flow instead of arshlevon doing it for you.
weirdly, arshes basemesh is also included in the Cryptic AR download, which can be found just by googling "arshlevon basemesh".
anyway. i didn't intend for you to trace it, but rather to study it. which is why i said you should have it on a sepperate monitor or floating over max or something. that way you're the one doing the work to make the right flow instead of arshlevon doing it for you.
I already stopped tracing when you said this the first time.
I did study it... my mesh fro example got 2 loops less at the legs and also one less in the face. My topology is quite a bit different.
As i said when you told me not to trace the first time, I loaded the picture on my second monitor and used my anatomic references as viewport planes.
There is shurely way less tracing than you might think gir.
/bump
base mesh should be done.
What now... Highpoly, Sculpting or just optimizing and texturing as it is?
Or I create a new basemesh without arsh's wires so gir is not disappointed anymore ;p
As for how to continue, depends on what you want to do with this, but personally I think you've taken a bit of a wrong turn when you started making the armor etc. You could take it into a sculpting program but you couldn't change a lot or it wouldn't translate to the lowpoly well (unless you were to retopo).
So what you can do now is limited to small details like gratings and nuts and bolts, which might just as well be PSed in.
As for how to continue, depends on what you want to do with this, but personally I think you've taken a bit of a wrong turn when you started making the armor etc. You could take it into a sculpting program but you couldn't change a lot or it wouldn't translate to the lowpoly well (unless you were to retopo).
I think i would retopo it after sculpting anyhow, just to practice that.
So what you can do now is limited to small details like gratings and nuts and bolts, which might just as well be PSed in.
That's because of the different sized quads huh?
I kept that in mind and since the armour would be hardsurface I knew I would not sculpt it (I got no idea how to propperly hard surface sculpt anyway).
But I wonder if it is practicable to sculpt only specific parts, like the area below the chest armour, shoulder area and the face, so everything not covered by armour plates and do the armour with subD modelling.
Is there a way to combine such a sculpt/SubD mix mesh for baking, or better spoken, is it common to do that? I can't think of a way to combine a 10mil poly sculpt mesh with a 2 mil poly subD mesh ATM :P
Replies
Also, draw! Nobody cares if its an in depth study of human anatomy, but keep anatomy in mind. Draw cool poses, draw little parts of the body, draw stylized, draw realistic, but always be aware of the anatomy. How do muscles flow into eachother? How does the body move? What shows strength, power? This guy already looks stronger than your musclebound monster just from having a more natural, curvy musculature.
Something a lot of beginners forget is that cartoon anatomy is just as important as realistic anatomy, is just as important as monster anatomy, is just as important as human anatomy, blahblahblah. To learn to sell convincing, interesting bodies, you have to get a handle of anatomy. This doesnt necessarily mean all day everyday copying medical textbooks.
After 2 years without much drawing I'll try to get back to that.
Yeh, the brest and chest look more powerfull I think. Even tough hes not posed i like the "natural/default pose" more.
You guys were realy right about that ;P
Nothing big jsut removed one one loop aggain.
Browsing for some hand tutorials now.
either way i guess my best advice is to strip it right down, remove about 1/4 of the edges that are there, and focus on giving him a big bold silouhette. once you've got that most basic of forms down, you can start refining.
remember, try to make every vertex work for itself, if it's not helping to define shape (externally) then delete it.
I am not shure, I got no experiance in sculpring so I think I do not aim for a sculptable mesh. I guess i try to make a good basemesh that is ready for subD modelling to add details, yet I want to maintain it rig-able.
I once aggain created edgeloops that are needed at oen point bunt run over the whole model, I am still afrait of getting to many triangles and that loop adding is the simplest way of preventing triangles.
I think I'll create hand and feet and then do a big cleanup.
After that I'll face my nightmare - face modeling
While searching for hand tutorials I found this;
http://www.silo3d.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2207&highlight=Tonys
12 Part tutorial, looks good. Saved the pages on my drive for future use.
The polycount wiki needs a hand tutorial!
Thanks SupRore!
I realy fail... not searching the forum itself *facepalm*.
Sorry bout that.
I found another, simple enougth, tutorial http://plissken.fatalunity.com/tutorials/subdiv/step3.html
I would reproduce it to this result...
... but isn't that a bit cheap?
I excuse for my inability to think and scroll today :S
So that's what I will try
Should not be to many triangles.
Yes, noobs should just practice and not worry about such stuff, but... ye know.
That lowpoly hand is actualy harder than expected
Did he campfer verts for the fingers?
I were not able to reproduce the hand from the wiki and since did not want to 1:1 copy that thing anyway I just experimented.
Is it ok that way? Maybe some thoughts on triangle ellimination?
however, it's something that will be mastered in time regardless of how hard you push it. something that is much more important to master early on is efficient poly usage and how to build your models "forms".
I never realy think about the polycount, but thats probably not the only thing you mean. I'm shure that efficient poly usage needs it's time too.
Do you see any massive flaws in efficiency here, I mean, for my level?
Is the hand a bit to small?
I am realy happy so far! Can't wait to see how far I can push it with your help
Thanks guys
(My topic needs a new title I think, since he is not overdone anymore :P )
Muscle-wise too big or too long? Or both?
I posted the ortho view cuz I already thought they might be wrong, so you could check that.
My ref got the arms down and I can't quite compare
Ahh... good night for now, CU tomorrow.
you seem to be the same as i was when i first started 3d art, unwilling to take a step backward in order to move forward. you started the thread with your idea of the perfect polyflow but weren't sure how to impliment it. the reason i can think of for this is your lack of understanding of basic 3d form.
you don't need a lot of fancy edge loops, you don't need to jump in at the deep end. my advice would be to start over. build your base mesh, concentrate on the silouhette, and THEN work on your looping and details.
the best mesh i can think of for you to study is this:
it's a basemesh that Arshlevon built a few years ago, and from my point of view it's almost the perfect mesh to build off of if you're trying to figure out how to start your mesh correctly. it's pretty much living proof that you don't need to go mental with polygons in order to achieve a good shape or outline.
so yeah, take a step back, simplify your work, break it right down to the very basics. start with 5 or 6 sided cylinders, select the edge loops that are already there, and scale them one at a time (loop wise) until you've got a good solid silouhette. THEN start blocking in your muscle masses etc.
wouldn't my current basemesh be ok if i remove the additional loops?
I created it from 8 sided cyls (makes the welding of the arms and legs easier)
Hmm... shall i start form cylinders aggain or cut down my current basemesh, I think the shape is not that bad at all. But as you say, I don't have the right eye for that yet. Comparing your imange and mine i just think about removing several edgeloops at the stomach and the sindes of the chest.
Hmm... I will remove the loops and try to get more of the shape from the picture you provided, so back to the stat where my model was made from 8-Sided Cylinders.
Once aggain: I don't have the eye to see whats wrong with my current shape (besides of me trying to give him muscles aggain), so i will reduce some loops aggain to the state where it was made of 8-sided cyls.
EDIT: already messed it to much, I'll start over aggain.
More practice, wohoo! :P
Gonna take this for the concept planes this time (cant fidn my last ones on google but they were more muscular)
Maybe I'll try to draw the edgeflow from gir's example onto them.
I'd need side and back view of that basemesh too :S
Arshlevon's hompage is offline.
I just found a good purpose for my second monitor haha!
Use it for constant display of the picture gir provided
I traced the shilouette and the positions of the front verticies, tha back and depth are my attampt ;P
But I AM trying to understand what poly is for what muscle, understandign the details and flow. I realy wanna learn something
Currently I'm trying to get the lower arm right. He kinda "twisted?" the cylinder to get the shape of the ulna muscle. (See? I already learned
Replicating that thing I realy seem to understand what detail is possible with only that few polys, it'ts amazing! Also I am happy that the head actualy looks like I could to that too
Looks so thin at the end. Are biceps n triceps to broad? But then the arm would be too thin I think. What is it that makes it look wrong?
The joints that connect the parts of the fingers are not exactly the same size. I think a bit bigger, especially the knuckles. Check your ref better.
Also where the fingers connect to the hand you have this... depth thing going on, that's bad. Behind the knuckles the hand is quite smooth, so you should move those two verts closer to the knuckles. And maybe your fingers are a bit too long? (exept the thumb).
Yeh, that hand didn't do the job. It was aggain such a "to many polys for to less detail" thing. I had no clue how to refine the knuckles tough. The new hand will be created in a other manner and I'll take care not gettign such "Spiderleg Fingers" aggain
EDIT:
Update
working on the legs
http://uwmsk.org/RadAnat/images/HandPA.jpg
dont let your eye fool you, pick up anatomical landmarks!
I am trying to keep myself from tracing (I can't trace more than the siluette anyway) so that I understand rather than copy. Neverless I try to get this model close to the original. Whah I also like is that this model got a good ammount of loops. I starded with cylinders, refined them and added loops step by step.
This way I am also trying to understand the workflow.
Don't worry, I use my brain and do not try a plain copy it.
After I finished tihs model I will try one with non-wire references.
I think I will spend most of my 2 weeks just creating basemeshes ;P
Right, I should use more refernece and thanks for the tip
Did the hand with help of the X-Ray picture SupRore provided and then tried to pose it relaxed like in the wireframe reference.
So no tracing at all this time
Ofcouse I could use mudbox's Iuman basemesh and try sculpt a bit, but meh...
I wanna try it in max. That way i should get a good understanding of edgeflow and shape I think. Whitch will make retopolygy a lot easier I guess
The topology is quite different since I use one loop less on the inside of the legs.
... now the head :S Cross your fingers
If someone feels like linking me up to his favourite head modelling tutorail, please feel free to do so
Also, for a beginner, is it easier to go with box- or extrusion-modelling?
I doubt one can say that in general but maybe...
http://www.arildwiro.com/
Thanks Calabi!
I know that one and I somewhat loose track at page 4 :S
I decided to go with this one now
http://www.silo3d.com/Tutorials/User_Tutorials/tony_jung/HTML_files/tjnyc_1.htm
It is realy simple and step by step too, starting of with a double extruded box.
:poly127:
Done
Already added smoothing groups for unwrapping... just in case.
So, what shall I do now?
I could create a basemesh without wireframe ref, but that would bore me atm.
Should I already try sculpting?
the 5: what exactly would be the case where you would need smoothinggroups to unwrap? o.o
Looks very sculptable
A link would be nice Neox.
I can't quite explain. I heard it in a tutorial and here on the forum it has been mentioned too. It's cuz of the normalmap baking I think, preventing seams.
I think it was something about that.
But I mainly used smoothingroups here to define UV Islands. The Tex-Tools plugin for max takes advantage of smoothign groups afaik.
Thanks stu
its just the one you traced, get your self a copy of silo and you'll have it, as its part of the software now i doubt its really legal for me to upload it somewhere
Yeh, I know its the one I just traced but the original could not harm.
Anyways I din't know it comes with silo so nvm.
I added a few loops for the face, it's not the ultimate topology but should be fine.
Now I got such a nice basemesh but don't know what to do with it
EDIT:
Did something with it.
You character artist shurely will lynch me for that.
Consider it took me ~15 minutes.
anyway man the base is looking good. The clothes not so much, but if you only spent 15 minutes then that's why! more time! And reference!
Did't find a way to convert it myself so far, well it's not that important.
I someone feels like sending me the .obj, feel free to do so.
I'll try to get some inspiration for something more interesting, I would not expend much effort into a vanilla marine I think.
Gonna browse through my references folder and see if I find something nice (and do-able ofcouse)
UPDATE:
UPDATE:
somewhat ironman-ish
UPDATE:
less ironman-ish
UPDATE:
UPDATE:
UPDATE:
anyway. i didn't intend for you to trace it, but rather to study it. which is why i said you should have it on a sepperate monitor or floating over max or something. that way you're the one doing the work to make the right flow instead of arshlevon doing it for you.
I already stopped tracing when you said this the first time.
I did study it... my mesh fro example got 2 loops less at the legs and also one less in the face. My topology is quite a bit different.
As i said when you told me not to trace the first time, I loaded the picture on my second monitor and used my anatomic references as viewport planes.
There is shurely way less tracing than you might think gir.
Thanks
UPDATE:
UPDATE:
base mesh should be done.
What now... Highpoly, Sculpting or just optimizing and texturing as it is?
Or I create a new basemesh without arsh's wires so gir is not disappointed anymore ;p
(BTW, how to UNhide the home-grid in max?)
As for how to continue, depends on what you want to do with this, but personally I think you've taken a bit of a wrong turn when you started making the armor etc. You could take it into a sculpting program but you couldn't change a lot or it wouldn't translate to the lowpoly well (unless you were to retopo).
So what you can do now is limited to small details like gratings and nuts and bolts, which might just as well be PSed in.
I think i would retopo it after sculpting anyhow, just to practice that.
That's because of the different sized quads huh?
I kept that in mind and since the armour would be hardsurface I knew I would not sculpt it (I got no idea how to propperly hard surface sculpt anyway).
But I wonder if it is practicable to sculpt only specific parts, like the area below the chest armour, shoulder area and the face, so everything not covered by armour plates and do the armour with subD modelling.
Is there a way to combine such a sculpt/SubD mix mesh for baking, or better spoken, is it common to do that? I can't think of a way to combine a 10mil poly sculpt mesh with a 2 mil poly subD mesh ATM :P