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Tiling Stone Texture in Zbrush

greentooth
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SgtBabbit greentooth
Recently I learnt how to make a simple tiling texture in ZBrush and decided to make a tutorial out of it (cough, it's a required part of my degree submission, cough). If you could take a look, tell me if it helps, if it's understandable, if you're new to the technique or have done it before. I'd really appreciate any feedback! :D
tutorial_zpsrfmry4es.png

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  • Poseiden
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    Poseiden polycounter lvl 9
    This is great and I'll give it a go. I will post results when it’s done or if I have problems.
  • Julien Noel
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    Nice tips! Thanks for sharing!
  • Umbrafoxus
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    Umbrafoxus polycounter lvl 3
    Nice work, seems easy to follow will be giving this a shot :D
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    Thanks for that :)
    Just learned a new method on how to make a tileable Texture in zBrush.

    You can also use the method with exporting the Displacement Map to Photoshop, offset it in Photoshop and bring it back to zBrush.

    Or you can use the Tiled Key. But the Problem is: Using Tiled Key means, you drop the Stones and you cant edit them anymore. So what about Texturing, how to pick up Masks from the Stones and from the Wall behind them to have a better and easier texturing in Photoshop? I mean, you cant change the Color to Flat Color, to render out some Masks.

    But with your Method the Stones stays Editable and so i can also render out Flat Colors for Photoshop Masks :)

    For all users of the Tiled Key:
    You can make a Mask by entering the Blue Channel of the Normal Map, Play with the Values until you get your Stones completely White -> Now you can use it as a mask.
    Or make the texturing completely in zBrush ;)

    Also i think that you have forgot to say that a "special" Plane is necessary
    I mean, to have no seams on the Border. I go with this and it works fine:
    qfxdxh53wui7.png
  • LaurentiuN
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    LaurentiuN interpolator
  • sltrOlsson
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    sltrOlsson polycounter lvl 14
    People really needs to stop using ZB's built in normal matcap. It's super fucked.. Gives you highlights in RGB and shit.. Use the one found under effects from here http://pixologic.com/zbrush/downloadcenter/library/
  • str8g8
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    str8g8 polycounter lvl 12
    As far as I see, this method involves dropping to canvas, just like tilde key etc (so can't be edited).

    Also has the issue of terrible aliasing around the objects.

    I wonder if pixologic will ever look at these issues? :¬(
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    It would also be cool that you can still Edit them after dropping :-(

    Edit: Or take it back to edit mode after position them ;)
  • Poseiden
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    Poseiden polycounter lvl 9
    Had a bunch of fun with this tutorial. I only had one problem that I couldn’t figure out or how it happened. The exported images were clipped just enough to add a black line around the edges after using ZAppLink. I’m not really sure how to change this outcome.

    These are the images I created.I also slapped them into Unity
    9h70Py4.png

    XL0WTZf.png

    1I1Hq1k.png
  • easterislandnick
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    easterislandnick polycounter lvl 17
    You can keep them all as subtools and offset them with tool/deformation/offset. Set the document size to your intended texture res, Import a plane as your first object from max/maya with a fixed size (I use 10) and them import the bricks as subtools. Use offet on them (the amount varies depending on your plane size). You can frame the plane with f and grab normals etc. Make sure the document size fits in the height of your monitor though otherwise it won't work.

    Not my tutorial but this is how it works...
    http://wiki.polycount.com/wiki/File:GeorgeSokol_zbrushtilingoffsetsubtools_tut_fullres.jpg

    BTW I find things like brick walls are easier in max. If you decimate the bricks and instance them when you copy you can get really good performance and it's easy to offset them. I normally do a texture with strips of colours and UV the high poly rocks so that I can get a simple colour bake from xnormal.
  • Nathan3D
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    Nathan3D polycounter lvl 7
    You always get the line at the edge i think i read somewhere its to do with lighting? im not sure.

    when I make them i will just take it into photoshop and offset it then use the spot healing tool and hold shift and go from the top to the bottom. this usually will fix any lines you have.
  • Nathan3D
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    Nathan3D polycounter lvl 7
    also i think you spec map is a bit off, that you render with it having no spec other than at the edges. this could make it look like maybe painted metal thats had the edges scrapped off. Spec maps from zbrush dont really work because of the way the lightng works you would have to set up a light rig to get a good one. easiest way is from your normal, if you dont have quixel or just Ndo2 then desaturate your normal map in photoshop and play with the levels.
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    Before Exporting your Images out of zBrush, set Render to Best.
    This will Help to avoid Black Seams in Photoshop. Its an old Bug :( and never really solved.
  • sltrOlsson
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    sltrOlsson polycounter lvl 14
    To remove the black line you do this
    • Render your canvas on "Best" (without shadows)
    • Choose the tool called "MRGBZGrabber", un-select auto crop and drag a selection accros your canvas.
    • Voila! Now you got a height and whatever you choose to render in your texture and alpha slot.
    • Pro tip: If you want to render out different materials on your canvas just select the "SimpleBrush", Un-select Zadd/Zsub and check "M" (For material) and with "DragRect" active fill the canvas with your new material.

    To make the whole process as easy as possible, and nondestructive, I always follow these steps when finishing a dropped texture.
    • Save your Document before you're half way trough. Zbrush crashes without a reason sometimes.
    • Save your Document when you're done and don't change the tile offset after you do. If you do, resave. It's a bitch to realign textures in photoshop.
    • If you've dropped tools with polypaint, render that out with flatColor matcap first thing.
    • Pick you normal matcap (DOWNLOADED FROM PIXOLOGICS SITE (GOD DAMN IT) and flood your canvas with the SimpleBrush. You should use the MRGB setting and Zadd/Zsub unchecked. It will overwrite the color and flood with the new normal material.
    • Don't save. Why? Because you just flooded your whole document with white. If you dropped white tools that obviously doesn't matter.

    I know it's hard to see and it's easy to just keep on trucking, but download the al_normal_map and compare the result with the standard matCap from Zbrush. Check the channels in Photoshop. It gives you halos and the length of the normals is to long. The blue channel is to strong. Try to fill the blue channel with white and normalize your texture. (Normalize can be found in the Xnormals plugin or the nVidia plugin for photoshop) IT's SO BORKED. STOP USING IT! IT GIVES ME CRABS! AND IT MAKES ME SHOUT!! Seriously though, just look under "effects" on this page, you'll see it right away.
  • mobkon
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    mobkon polycounter lvl 6
    Took a stab at this tonight. Also had issues with a 2 pixel wide dark line on the top and bottom of my maps. Switched to "Best" quality render and it took care of the issue for all maps except for one of them. Had to edit it out in PS.

    Anyway, here's my results. Thanks for this! Learned a lot.

    16728327314_784123c2f9_o.jpg
  • MisterSande
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    MisterSande polycounter lvl 8
    sltrOlsson wrote: »
    People really needs to stop using ZB's built in normal matcap. It's super fucked.. Gives you highlights in RGB and shit.. Use the one found under effects from here http://pixologic.com/zbrush/downloadcenter/library/

    Which of the materials are you referring to ?


    @topic; thank you for the tutorial, I discovered Zapplink thanks to this :)
  • BARDLER
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    BARDLER polycounter lvl 12
    sltrOlsson wrote: »
    To remove the black line you do this
    • Render your canvas on "Best" (without shadows)
    • Choose the tool called "MRGBZGrabber", un-select auto crop and drag a selection accros your canvas.
    • Voila! Now you got a height and whatever you choose to render in your texture and alpha slot.
    • Pro tip: If you want to render out different materials on your canvas just select the "SimpleBrush", Un-select Zadd/Zsub and check "M" (For material) and with "DragRect" active fill the canvas with your new material.

    Or you could use this script: http://www.polycount.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1932272&postcount=7
  • mobkon
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    mobkon polycounter lvl 6
    Hey guys -

    Again, thanks for this tutorial. First time I'm learning how to make a tiling texture. One problem I ran into was since I polypainted my diffuse texture in Zbrush, I notice that when I tile the texture, you can see a hard line since the diffuse texture is varied shades all across the image, so the edges don't match.

    How would I get around this?

    EDIT: nevermind! Figured it out. Just used the tilde ~ key to tile the canvas that I polypainted on and just went over the seams. Problem solved!
  • mobkon
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    mobkon polycounter lvl 6
    BARDLER wrote: »

    Can't seem to get it working...
  • leleuxart
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    leleuxart polycounter lvl 10
    mobkon wrote: »
    Hey guys -

    Again, thanks for this tutorial. First time I'm learning how to make a tiling texture. One problem I ran into was since I polypainted my diffuse texture in Zbrush, I notice that when I tile the texture, you can see a hard line since the diffuse texture is varied shades all across the image, so the edges don't match.

    How would I get around this?

    EDIT: nevermind! Figured it out. Just used the tilde ~ key to tile the canvas that I polypainted on and just went over the seams. Problem solved!

    If you plan on doing the 2.5D and tilde key method, it's best to polypaint the individual pieces beforehand. You shouldn't worry too much about the polypaint texture for a tiling texture anyway, you'll most likely be going back into Photoshop/DDO/Substance/etc before it's done. It's nice to have a good base though.

    Anthony Vitale's method of tiling textures in ZBrush is by far my favorite now. It beats the picky 2.5d move/rotation tool and gives you much more freedom and reusability. It's on his ArtStation and in the big environment art dump from The Order.
  • BARDLER
  • mobkon
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    mobkon polycounter lvl 6
    leleuxart wrote: »
    If you plan on doing the 2.5D and tilde key method, it's best to polypaint the individual pieces beforehand. You shouldn't worry too much about the polypaint texture for a tiling texture anyway, you'll most likely be going back into Photoshop/DDO/Substance/etc before it's done. It's nice to have a good base though.

    Anthony Vitale's method of tiling textures in ZBrush is by far my favorite now. It beats the picky 2.5d move/rotation tool and gives you much more freedom and reusability. It's on his ArtStation and in the big environment art dump from The Order.

    Hey thanks for the tip. Checked out Anthony's method as well. Will take some time to go through it. First watch through it seemed like a lot of steps, but more control.

    As for the diffuse tiling texture...how do you recommend this is done? Let's say I get a base texture with Polypaint, bring it into DDO...how would I make this tileable? With offsetting in PS?
  • shrogg
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    shrogg polycounter lvl 12
    Gave it a shot (Its a bit different to my standard workflow) however the results for a first attempt seem promising!

    WiNNmbu.png
  • SgtBabbit
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    SgtBabbit greentooth
    Hi everyone!
    Thank-you so much for the feedback! I'm glad some of you found it helpful :D
    I've never encountered the problem with the black border exporting with zapplink. I use 4r6 with photoshop cs6 maybe it's a problem with the edition?
    I'm also aware of the janky normalmatcap and baking in unwanted lighting information. I tackled this by making sure in the lighting menu that the lighting is directly in the middle. I would usually use xnormals for more complicated models but I liked the quick simple built in capabilities.
    I found issues with not being able to go back and edit objects after you'd placed them, but after a few attempts I just got used to it. @easterislandnick that tutorial really helps with that thank-you!!
  • sltrOlsson
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    sltrOlsson polycounter lvl 14
    SgtBabbit wrote: »
    I'm also aware of the janky normalmatcap and baking in unwanted lighting information. I tackled this by making sure in the lighting menu that the lighting is directly in the middle. I would usually use xnormals for more complicated models but I liked the quick simple built in capabilities.

    I'm not gonna let this go. What ever you do with that normal matCap that comes with Zbrush, you'll get a fucked result.

    Xnormals gives you a more exact rusult I guess, but from my tests the difference you get isn't big enough to bother with the whole export to xn step.
    Which of the materials are you referring to ?
    BARDLER wrote: »

    Sweet! Thanks!
    Use the one found under effects from here http://pixologic.com/zbrush/downloadcenter/library/

    Can't imagine it's that hard to spot it.

    I don't really get why zbrush haven't replaced their crappy one yet.. Especially since there's so many artists using zb for textures..
  • shrogg
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    shrogg polycounter lvl 12
    Second and third attempt

    ddgJVHc.png

    g8YwjWQ.png
  • MisterSande
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    MisterSande polycounter lvl 8
    pretty nice results shrogg! one thing I noticed is that the placement of the stones feels allot more realistic if there is some space inbetween them. I will post an example of this soon as I made the mistake of not doing this correctly myself.

    Btw, I am using Zapplink but are still getting these black seams in my maps.

    @ sltrOlsson,
    It IS actually hard to find the right thing if you do not know what you are looking for. Which of the effects matcaps do you suggest using ?
  • shrogg
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    shrogg polycounter lvl 12
    Thanks, That texture was a hodgepodge of stuff since i was looking at references for one thing and my head was thinking of something completely different!

    Here is another one using this technique

    ExSqDju.png
    VPVQ5o0.png
  • MisterSande
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    MisterSande polycounter lvl 8
    Liking that one allot, great stuff. Did you manually masked the moss areas ?

    BTW, what did you do to get rid of the seams?
  • shrogg
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    shrogg polycounter lvl 12
    Thank!

    I built a Smart Material for applying moss to objects in dDo and it seems to do the trick!
  • CougarJo
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    CougarJo polycounter lvl 6
    Nice shrogg :D

    I have a question, I'm a *little* lost here!

    I get the worflow for tiling with only stones and offsetting for the tile.

    I also get the workflow for tiling with the wrapping mode and the working plane / frame plane.

    BUT, I don't understand how to do something like this : https://www.artstation.com/artwork/tileable-brick-heavy-mortar-250b8e22-5962-48dc-a0b6-a79b441fb3b4

    How to do bricks and mortar/cement as the same time? :/
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    Hey Cougar!
    Just start with a Tileable Plane.
    So Sculpt a Tileable Plane and then Append your Stones/Bricks in there.
    Thats all.
  • CougarJo
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    CougarJo polycounter lvl 6
    But If I use the tileable plane, with the other plane to frame, the stones will not be able to offset right?
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    Which Method do you mean?
    I used the method with the Frame.
    I sculpted the Plane, framed the Frame with F (So the Sculpted Plane will be Framed,too), pressed the tiled key and then i append my bricks.

    The only bad thing about the Tiled Key is, you cant change your Material anymore. So you cant set your Subtools to a Clear Color to use it for example as a Mask in Photoshop. Texturing is then more difficult.
  • CougarJo
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    CougarJo polycounter lvl 6
    Ah yep, wasn't thinking about the tiled key, I'll try and see if I can make this work!

    Thanks :D
  • Nathan3D
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    Nathan3D polycounter lvl 7
    Just what they said you only need the one plane and then sculpt your grout or whatever on it then put your bricks in and move them up and down in Z space.

    Put your bricks on a different layer then you can paint in materials for a mask or anything. It does take a bit of thought before hand I guess to what masks you want.
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    A question:
    Is there a workflow for photorealistic Tileable Textures?
    I really like them : http://crazytextures.com/texture?category=stones&Texture_page=2

    Did he make a 3D Scan tileable? How? Whats the secret? :)
  • CougarJo
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    CougarJo polycounter lvl 6
    SgtBabbit Thanks for your tutorial, helped me A LOT!

    It's not a stone wall, but I've done an Herringbone tile floor!

    RENDERTILE01.png
    RENDERTILE02.png
  • rogelio
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    rogelio greentooth
    People should be using the overlap sculpt technique in the link below imo. and bake it out using a plane in a baker... please do not use 2.5d... too many issues with how the normals are represented with matcaps... of course just my opinion...

    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bepQk_GHAY4[/ame]
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    I didnt have watched the video now, but what if i want to make a Wall with no arrangement like this one :
    http://cgtextures.com/texview.php?id=52944&PHPSESSID=0jlq3n2qqldp34dib3h2o1h0e6

    Its totally random O.O
  • rogelio
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    rogelio greentooth
    Gazu wrote: »
    I didnt have watched the video now, but what if i want to make a Wall with no arrangement like this one :
    http://cgtextures.com/texview.php?id=52944&PHPSESSID=0jlq3n2qqldp34dib3h2o1h0e6

    Its totally random O.O

    same workflow just different placement.

    The great thing is with this workflow it is non destructive so you can always go back and place differently without having to start 100% a new. The placement is done in any 3D program like maya, max, and others.

    So yes you can make anything even grass plant blades and populate them in Maya via girded template. The lengthy process is clustering the meshes but a script can be made to make that automatic.
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    Watched it now. Looks a bit complicated.
    Dude, so many steps. I wish someone could translate that tutorial to max ^^
  • leleuxart
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    leleuxart polycounter lvl 10
    Gazu wrote: »
    Watched it now. Looks a bit complicated.
    Dude, so many steps. I wish someone could translate that tutorial to max ^^

    It does have a few extra steps and since there aren't dozens of tutorials out there on it, it seems a little daunting. But it makes the texture workflow much easier and is great for reusing assets. You get a lot more out of a few sets of bricks, stones, etc.

    For the more random-looking materials, like the stone wall you posted, you can use scripts to randomly place everything, then just fix the stones along the edge of the plane so they tile.
  • Gazu
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    Gazu polycounter lvl 12
    Mh...i understand.
    But all the Steps he does in Maya like Clusters and so on....to transfer that to max, no idea O,o"

    I hope there will be a Tutorial for random stones with the same workflow in max soon ^^
  • MisterSande
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    MisterSande polycounter lvl 8
    Correct me if I am wrong but the main idea that he is showing is this:

    1. Instead of laying down your brick/tile pattern on the "destructive" 2.5 canvas you export them using a lower subdiv level to a 3D program where you can use the grid to lay down your patterns.
    2. Export back into Zbrush and turn the subdiv. on and do additional sculpting.
    3. When done export documents / Zapplink.

    I do not really see the advantage of his "cluster" sculpting nor the use of Maya sets for Polygroups.

    It might be allot easier to do add Xnormal to this workflow and simplify it like this:
    1. Make tileable brick base in Maya/Max/Modo. Export to Zbrush.
    2. Sculpt 5 variants of a brick inside Zbrush and export back.
    3. Make Patterns in 3d software.
    Additional: Use scripts for jitter/random rotation. Make sure you mirror the overlapping transforms. (you make Z, negative - Z).
    4. Export to Xnormal.

    Exporting to Xnormal most likely gives better baking results as well (correct me if im wrong).
  • shrogg
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    shrogg polycounter lvl 12
    Correct me if I am wrong but the main idea that he is showing is this:

    1. Instead of laying down your brick/tile pattern on the "destructive" 2.5 canvas you export them using a lower subdiv level to a 3D program where you can use the grid to lay down your patterns.
    2. Export back into Zbrush and turn the subdiv. on and do additional sculpting.
    3. When done export documents / Zapplink.

    I do not really see the advantage of his "cluster" sculpting nor the use of Maya sets for Polygroups.

    It might be allot easier to do add Xnormal to this workflow and simplify it like this:
    1. Make tileable brick base in Maya/Max/Modo. Export to Zbrush.
    2. Sculpt 5 variants of a brick inside Zbrush and export back.
    3. Make Patterns in 3d software.
    Additional: Use scripts for jitter/random rotation. Make sure you mirror the overlapping transforms. (you make Z, negative - Z).
    4. Export to Xnormal.

    Exporting to Xnormal most likely gives better baking results as well (correct me if im wrong).

    This seems like a far more efficent method of doing this. It also allows you to change things far faster than the zBrush workflow since it cuts out a huge portion of the process.

    I may try it out later and see how it goes.
  • MisterSande
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    MisterSande polycounter lvl 8
    oke I did some testbaking using the method I described and so far the process IS quick but.. im also encountering seam issues which I have no idea why I am getting them.

    Please, take a look:

    notgivingup2.jpg?dl=0


    At first I thought this was due the transforms of the bricks being wrong (after scaling/rotating). So i reset all of them and did new bakes but still I got these seams O_o


    Will post a copy of this post in the Technical help forum.
  • MisterSande
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    MisterSande polycounter lvl 8
    Managed to fix the issue: Be sure that everything is centered to 0,0,0. else you will get mirror issues like what I had.
    For the grout: http://www.chricchio.com/portfolio-item/sculpting-seamless-texture-zbrush/

    Will be posting some results soon.
  • Bertmac
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    Bertmac polycounter lvl 17
    Its funny how old techniques get rediscovered or rewritten again, This is not bad at all (just don't claim it) But people should listen a bit more to the people from the industry who are working with this everyday.

    -To me, Regello is Substance designer texture king and works at Naughty dog, but will never brag about it. the humble guy that he is.
    -The video he show is from the guys from "The Order", an other texture milestone.
    -The technique rewritten by the OP is pretty old and available on the zbrush website ( hmm also done by an Naughty dog Artist.) http://pixologic.com/zclassroom/homeroom/lesson/environments-with-tate-mosesian/

    Anyway what I'm saying is that people discovered better ways to do this, maybe with more steps (and yes in Maya) but less mistakes.

    Don't try to shortcut it. people with experience can see this with ease.

    Hope you understand, no harm intended.
    Enjoy

    PS: and yes i know this thread is 3 months old :D
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