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Re: M1941 Johnson - Pew Pew
what a strange gun, never seen that one looks well done so far but i think some of the edges are way too soft, especially the back part. it takes a lot away from that milled metal look , and especially the back is viewed very closely in first person , so should have rather sharp edges. the magazine parts + clip holder look… -
Re: Solved: How to change baked object space normal map direction?
Well, I'm currently working on a skeleton (LINK). Naturally i can't hide UV seams on all meshes. That means that DDO-generated detail will not cross over UV seams without creating seams (visible on the skull in the image), which i then have to open up in mudbox for all channels and manually blur them over so that the 2… -
Re: setting up UV's for high poly baking
You can use "TexTools" for it. Also the UV splits are generally not a huge problem for texturing. And if you need a UV split somewhere because of smoothing, but you don't want to split it in the UV's (for example something that is really close in the players view) you can always add a chamfer instead of a UV split. (and… -
Re: [UE4] The Stargate
I get what you're saying, but I don't go around subdividing everything if it isn't necessary, and at this point (as it's not finished) I haven't beveled the edges yet. But even then, on the real prop, the round edges are barely noticeable; they're there of course (nothing has real sharp edges, I know that much) but they're… -
Re: Sci-fi Gun
I agree with Blasoid. The grip of your model is hard edged. I have yet to encounter a handgun, rifle, or other firearm that isn't a gentle curve around the grip where your fingers and the base of your thumb wrap around. In addition trigger guards typically have a taper on the outer rim. Right now, the grip could never be… -
Re: [WIP] Lineage II Sword - Blood Orchid
I think you're starting out with way too much rez on your model. I'd recommend just blocking out the mesh - meaning you're keeping the mesh really simple, starting from a cube and making all the shapes required with a low amount of geometry. After you have all the pieces in place, you can then start detailing, adding… -
Re: Tomahawk
The wood and leather is beautiful, but your metal axehead appears to be made from wood. I'd study lots of photos of axes to get a better idea of what worn metal looks like. I wouldn't bother trying to sculpt rust pitting as that can be done much easier with textures. Steel is pretty durable. You can see here what a chipped… -
Re: Blizzard Enviro Contest - The Book Crypt
I really like this scene. It's also one of those times I can quickly spot and articulate bugs. Circles and numbered the areas in this pic: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/pcrit01.jpg/ 1) Noticeable gradient lighting seam. Should be easy fix in texture. 2) "Whispy", curved shapes, not planar. The tree on the left… -
Re: MoI > 3DS Max workflow (normals problem)
Your object from MOI is a NURBS solid object that gets converted to polygons at export. You may have to fiddle with the settings to get a cleaner conversion. No, the n-gons are fine. It's the misaligned/unwelded verts/edges that are the export error. If you're just exporting for rendering then polysoup geo or any geo is… -
Re: Solutions for sculpting tileable textures (other than bricks) in zbrush 4.
In order for wrap mode to work properly, your plane has to be within ZBrush's unified space. If I remember correctly, the default Zbrush plane is the right scale, but it doesn't subdivide properly. If it's not in the right space, then your brush wrap won't work as intended(sculpting on the right edge carries over to the…
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