Is it required to move the shells back to overlap when exporting to marmoset? Try without it perhaps. Theoretically it will either repeat (so it's overlapping anyway) or ignore it.. Perhaps take a look at the marmoset thread here or the pdf documentation for it.
Here is my finished helm, just some little tweak and I'm ok with it. And It only take one little hour so not a big deal for the shelling ^^ Hope i can finish the warhammer in time now.
Thanks Amil. I'm starting to think the reason my normals look bad in those places are because of the UVs. I should also have the shells split with Smoothing groups but I'll check that again soon.
yeah..a bunch of us were playing League of Legends...the POW...flash of light..smell of ozone and burnt hair...I thought those darn Canadians finally got fed up with America....and nuked us
ya my mx518 is old as fuck and works like a charm, my sweat actully has been corroding away the plastic shell in spots, which shows how old and all buttons work fine.
Id recomend looking into roadkill. (I use the stand alone rather than the plug-in.) Its free, and i mostly use it to cut up the model up then tweak and arrange the uv shells in max/maya.
It can help to unwrap the cube before rounding it out, if you unwrap it afterward it will relax oddly, accurelty, but oddly. If you're using 2012 you can use the "Straighten Selection" to square off the UV shells.
i love how unique your mind is, it shows in your work.. every character you draw has so many emotions just spilling out of it :D love them all keep it up
I'd pump up the specularity and maybe the lighten the diffuse on the barrel where the shell ejector slot is. Just seems a little dull compared to the other metal when it should be the most metal of all since it's not painted.
The head seems to have more of a flap than a shell/natural armour thing like it does in the concept. Looks pretty fly for a turtle guy though :D Also: Are you going to make a hi-poly?