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My attempt at Phillip K's Tutorial.

Hi guys, just getting a little practice in.

This is my first attempt at a texture like this. Never done normal or spec maps before so I followed a mixture of Phillip K's tutorial and Racer 445's hand painted metal tutorial and this is what I came up with.

I've also lost my pen to my wacom tablet so had to do it all with my mouse! Which was annoying....

If you guys got any crit at all gimme a shout. :D.

Oh and I'm thinking of buying the Wacom Intuos 4 Medium size. Anyone on here recommend it?

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  • Mark Dygert
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    Looking pretty cool, not too much to crit on =)

    I would probably pass on the Intous4 and go for a bamboo pen save some cash and get a great tablet too.

    http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77242
  • fearian
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    fearian greentooth
    scratches are a bit too uniformly applied everywhere. Vary the size, sparsity a bit.

    edit: didn't mean to be glib, I was in a rush!

    I think you need to work the specular a little more to try and separate the different elements of the texture. Can we see your separate maps?
  • Slave_zero
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    Slave_zero polycounter lvl 8
    I think the main problem is, that your base metal has a uniform color. You have some light stains and light scratching. But all those effects only seem to higher or lower the brightness of you metal base texture. So basicly its all one grey blue color. Maybe try to use different colors for stains, light scratches and rusted / heavy scratched elements.

    For example: You have a grey with a tiny bit of blue metal base texture. Adding stains with a warm grey can be visually more appealing than just the toned down base texture.
    Light and heavy scratches could be a little colder, means brighter and with a little more blue, than your base texture. Adding a tiny few of rusted spots can add some additional detail. Those rusted spots could have a warmer color.
    So in the end you get a metal texture with slightly different tone of arm and col grey.
  • Razorb
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    Razorb polycounter lvl 15
    good job gary ;) more more more!
  • BreaK
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    Thanks for the comments!

    Slave, yeah thanks for your advice. Think I'm gonna go over the texture once I get my tablet back! I know its a bit uniform at the minute and a few tweaks are needed. I'll add some rust in like you said and see how it turns out. :)

    Heh cheers Aaron. I'll do my best to get some more out!:D

    Vig...think I may take your advice and get the Bamboo. There are different models, any advice on which one to get? Or are they basically all the same?

    Nice one folks.
  • PhilipK
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    PhilipK polycounter lvl 10
    Hi BreaK,

    nice to see you're reading my tutorial :) I think it looks nice so far.
    As fearian said there seems to be almost only medium to high frequency details but hardly any low frequency stuff like larger subtle gradients or miscolouring etc. I think it'd gain a lot if you gave those darker borders a smaller specular highlight (brighter color in the glossiness map if you're using one). But generally try to break out the different parts more even in the diffuse and specular. The dark parts could be darker, the big middle plate could have some more saturation probably.

    You've got a nice base here, some more adjustments and it'd be a great texture imo!
  • BreaK
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    Hi guys, thanks for all the crit. Been very informative.

    I've gone over the texture again, upping the spec and I've also removed some scratches to make it look less uniform. Need to add rust and wear but without my tablet texturing is becoming a bit frustrating! I'm not using a glossiness map atm. How do you create one? Can you just invert the spec map? I have no idea whats involved in making them :S.

    Cheers guys, more crit on this screen grabs is more than welcome!
  • NAIMA
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    NAIMA polycounter lvl 14
    mice work , where I can find this tut?
  • BlackulaDZ
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    I think it's a little too roughed up, maybe lighten up the damage a bit? lookin good though!
    NAIMA wrote: »
    mice work , where I can find this tut?

    http://www.philipk.net/tutorials.html
  • BreaK
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    Hello everyone, just another small update.

    Thanks for the crit. Hopefully my texturing skills will improve the more I do! Getting a Bamboo pen and touch in the next few days I think. My plan is to get this in ZBrush and add a few dents ect. Not used ZBrush that much and want to develop my skills in that too so I figure dents will be fairly easy!

    Anyway more crit is welcome. Tried to tone the damage down a bit, as well as desaturating the colours too.

    NAIMA - You can find them here http://www.philipk.net/tutorials.html

    Cheers guys and gals.
  • fearian
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    fearian greentooth
    That's looking really good! The big thing I notcie is that the dark spots on the wall are too splotchy - it looks like you did render clouds with blackand white in photoshop! If you look at Philip's final product, the colour variation on the wall is very subtle.

    Also your paint strip looks very dark, this is because you are darkening it with your specular in comparison to the rest of the wall. Try for a lighter spec, or lighter diffuse to counteract this.

    It is hard to crit though, because we're gonna be constantly comparing it to the tutorial outcome!
  • Slave_zero
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    Slave_zero polycounter lvl 8
    One suggestion:

    The text and font you are using are not helping very much. The little detail created by the text is only visible when seen from very close, as the font is very thin-lined. Instead use some font with bigger bold letters or symbols. This will ensure that these details can be seen from greater distance and you have more options to paint some tear on the painted text without making it unreadable.
  • Mark Dygert
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    edit... double post.
  • Mark Dygert
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    damn opening attachments eats my post... again.

    I like the detailing on the edges, I like that the spec cuts through the grime on the edge, that's always a nice effect.

    Be careful of converting the diffuse to a spec map. The orange is going to be less glossy than the rest of the piece, which could be on purpose, might be a flat paint, but normally that comes from converting the diffuse to the spec and not actually taking the time to make a spec mask.

    Be careful about the damage. Too much damage can end up looking like noise and loose any impact it might have. A lot of unique damage details can repeat often when tiled and break the illusion that they are unique details. Also because everything is damaged you have to add more extreme damage to get it to show up, which means more extreme unique details that repeat.

    Right now the orange paint lines have really jagged edges almost like torn paper. I think you should straighten most of those lines out and punctuate it with a little damge in areas it probably won't stick out.

    It also depends on how advanced the engine shader system is but you can do details like the orange lines through various shader methods and get unique damage details that way too. That way they can be different colors, have different damage even though the mesh repeats, lots of good stuff...
  • BreaK
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    Small update. Kinda gone for a Battlestar Galactica look, and stole the aperture science logo from Portal. Removed some scratches and tried to tone down the wear and tear in general.

    Have you guys got any tips on how to create a glossiness map and how they work? Any help would be awesome.

    Crits welcome. Cheers guys.
  • whipSwitch
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    whipSwitch polycounter lvl 8
    the stripes in the last thumbnail are a shining example of what Vig pointed out. The logo, as well as that faded bit in the center of the top set of lines stands way out when the tile repeats
  • BreaK
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    whipSwitch wrote: »
    the stripes in the last thumbnail are a shining example of what Vig pointed out. The logo, as well as that faded bit in the center of the top set of lines stands way out when the tile repeats

    Oh yeah, I know...I was just linking the 3 panels together to show how the light reacts from the normals. I wouldn't put these together if I were creating an environment.
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