Big fan of the way the miniatures look, particularly the large helmets and overall body proportions. I've never really been a fan of the realistic looking space marines or the ones you see in the artwork.
Anyhow, given how I've been painting, modelling, and collecting these guys for years, only suitable that I put one together in 3D.
Total tri count came to 5340. I could optimize it much more I'm sure but since I'm planning on having it in my portfolio figured I'd leave it as is.
Textures are 512 for shoulders, helmet, and weapon. Upper, Lower torso, and backpack use a 1024. I decided to use 6 seperate textures so that I could later on make different versions and pick and chose different peices (different upper or lower torso variants for example).
Yes, I got lazy with the base. I wasn't planning on having a base, but I put it in to round it out. I may go back in and redo it by giving it more volume. I went for a natural looking base as opposed to techno-industrial since the model had quite a bit of steel and metallics as it was.
All of these shots were taken directly from the Max 8 viewport using a shader I got on here (it was made by Jaroen Maton and Ben Cloward, dunno if those are the same Xoliul folks)
Your critiques are very important to me, since it will help me on my next project I've already started on.

Kneeling

Diffuse, Normal, and Wires.

Normally I wouldn't do the legs of a character in that fashion. The problem is that Space Marine miniatures have very awkward legs. They are actually impossible and if a man is inside the suit he'd actually have dislocated hips.
The hip connection to the pelvis was really challenging; how to maintain the right "pudgy" look of the miniature, while being able to rig it for animation. I also wanted the legs to look right at any angle or in any future animation.
Thanks in advance for any comments, advice, and critiques.
Replies
You nailed the look of the miniatures dead-on.
I normally use color specular maps. For this project I wanted to use greyscale specular since I'm learning that not all engines use color specular. I would have prefered color specular since I'm not a fan of white highlights (the miniature painter in me just has this thing against using white for highlights... hehe)
Also, the AO for this project was a lot stronger than I normally would do it. This was simply because I don't have a shader than can cast shadows in the Max viewport. So I ended up casting extra "shadow AOs" to put over things to give the illusion that I had shadow casting lights in the scene.
Oh I also turned up the HD Smoothvision Anti-Aliasing in the ATI Catalyst control panel to x8 so that I could have some anti-aliasing in the viewport when I took the screenshots.
Only the upper, lower torso, and backpack are 1024x1024. All other textures are 512 (in a game I'd probably use 512 and 256 respectively).
Since I'd been asked before on here about texturing stuff, I put together this mosaic of the backpack texture and some of the 25 layers that compose it (I merged some of them).
It might help someone I suppose
Starting from the top and going right:
-Dirt/dust layer: I'll usually take an edited AO map and use it as this. (Multiply x100 for this only. Normally I do about x30 opacity)
-AO layer: I take the AO layer I get from Max and colorize it to give it a yellow-tan tint. (Multiply x100)
-Color spatter layer: This breaks up the colors of the texture as well as gives some artificial refracted ambient light. (Normal x6, as a Color layer it also works but it may push your other colors too much)
-Detail layer: I merged them just for this pic, but usually they are seperate since they have to be at different levels. (Normal x100 usually. Sometimes they might be a multiply, screen or something other it all depends).
-Specular Edge layer: I take the normal map and do a "Find Edges" stylize filter. I then greyscale that and invert it. I then edit it to ensure edge highlights are only where I want them to be.
You might want to break them up a bit with a scrungy brush. I decided to keep them clean. (Screen x70 for Diffuse, Screen x60 for the Specular).
-Paint Chips and Scuffs layer: This layer takes a while to get right since it can easily create noticable seams on your texture. Also you want the scuff marks and paint chips to be just right. You don't want too many, and you want them at a place that makes sense that the armor would get chipped (such as a kneepad, forearm, sharp edges, etc). (I normally put this layer on Multiply x100, lower values of opacity may work better for you)
-Detail layers
-The final three layers (bottom three on the right) from left to right:
---Grunge layer: Gives the whole texture a general grunge. Normally I have this one on Overlay x50 opacity. This layer also denotes what the material is so I'll use metal for metal, wood for wood, etc. Some areas don't use this grunge (like the Skulls for example) I just move them over this layer so they are not affected. Hence why it's near the bottom of the layer stack.
---Color Layer: Defines the primary color of the texture. This allows me to easily change it to any color. (Normal x100)
---Background: I make sure it's an off grey so that no black is used on the texture.
All of the textures up above use the same process. For some details like the Aquila on the Upper Torso, I'll cut it out from the Normal map, then I take out the Grey Channel and use that as the actual detail layer itself in my diffuse. I'll then tint that or texture it accordingly.
I agree- any chance of you doing a couple more with some modifications/different load outs?
My plan was on making all the torso, leg, backpack, and helmet variants you get in a standard tactical marine box. As well as an assault marine with bolt pistol and chainsword.
But then I thought of moving on with a completely different peice for portfolio work and then coming back to this.
But I guess I can move forward with my original plans of making additional marines including one without helmet seeing how easy it is to produce the others.
Updated
I'd say 3 to 4 days, 30 hours total maybe? Wondering if that's too slow. That included the hires model for the normal and all the texturing.
Ended up having to weight the edge of the lower shin otherwise at extreme angles it clipped into the shoe. Still clips...
Texture:
Extra spaces will be used for accessories (ammo pouces, purity seals) which I'll be doing.
Try out some more of the Space Marines chapters color schemes!
Learned that my edges are too narrow so the bevel doesn't show up too well in the normal. Aww well... I'm learning...
And in case anyone is wondering how it's rigged:
This is just a temporary bone rig. I use it to pose things and to figure out the optimal pivot point location for stuff. Later on when I create the biped, I use this bone rig to pose the biped accordingly.
Just tested how quickly I could do it and if there were specular map conflicts. It looks awful unless I use a color specular, but no biggie.
GW's
Nice work mate!
^^^^^
What do you guys mean by SDK?
Was working on alternate versions of the Upper Torso (4 in total) but got sidetracked with a different project.
Was thinking 4 of them in a scene; A sergeant without helmet, an assault marine (bolt pistol + chainsword), a tactical marine (like you see up there), and a Devastator with Heavy Bolter. But I'm a slow modeller. Fortunately most of the foundation stuff is done so it's just really the weapons other helmets and accessories and such.
One thing, I dont like the spec on the eyes of the helmet.
Also the helmet can be a bit wider but ears same place, dont move them.
I think of it as a "Skin" Development Kit.
Also, do you plan on doing more units? Like Terminators or Scouts?
Really good job on this!
I second this motion.
Also, are you going to be doing the entire Corvus armor? Hands down my favorite mk of space marine armor.
The corvus armor is really just the beaky helmet, the legs you see there, the torso with the belts on it, and the shoulder pads that are not edged and have studs on them.
Decided to try Imperial Fists just to see how well I could do yellow, and I'm kinda meh on it, either I blow out my highlights or I push them too much. Kind of like the plastic look instead of a metallic look.
Don't like the specular either. It was an hour long fight between my normal and specular until I got something I sort of liked. But I still don't like it. I redid the highres lenses like four times trying all kinds of tricks but it still wouldn't highlight right.
They are supposed to highlight like a gem, with a highlight at the top towards the ear phones and a highlight towards the nose-face mask. Don't think I yet know how to achieve that, but I will be posting an in-progress thing on the "What are you working on thread" later on. Perhaps some of the folks can help me there.
The helmet is good as it is:
*Please note that the forward view tilted forward slightly when I put the plastic model in my scanner, hence why the earphones and vent look taller than they should.
What you might be seeing is the reverse; the earphones should actually be narrower by half-inch.
When I did that and scaled it, it looked slightly off, something just didn't look right as I compared in 3/4 view my 3D model, my miniatures, and my Sideshow Collectibles 4.5" Brother Meridicus (http://www.sideshowtoy.com/?page_id=4489&sku=8104R)
The earphones are supposed to be bulky since they nearly touch the sides of the torso armor's backplate. If I widen the helmet and face mask portion, why leaving the earphones as is, I get the dreaded "bulldog" look. Metal 2nd edition models had this look, as well as some recent metal models for veterans.
With the exception of the Sideshow Collectibles figure, I don't use painted models as reference (like the pic from GW I posted earlier). They can throw scales way off and may make things seem wider, more narrow etc. Even the Sideshow Collectibles figures are off (particularly the thighs, backpack, hand-to-forearm connection, etc).
Maybe I'll release an SDK in the future, perhaps after I get my portfolio together and have my website up.
I wasn't planning on terminators, scouts, or stuff like that. Just a scene with four battle brothers. Mostly to put in my portfolio. But after I get done with that, and one more portfolio piece (not WH40K related) I will definately do a scout (get more practice doing cloth folds which I'm terrible at).