I would also suggest adding some variation to the brown on the sideplates. Adding some sort of grain, be it recycled plastic or wood, it's gonna have some sort of differences to it. I'd also consider adding in some shading in between the diamond shapes.
You seem to be missing a manufacturer's label on the other side (ex: Springfield Armory) and on the base of the bullet around the firing pin (like R-P 45 Auto). The firing pin is also too small, it should be about twice the size you have it now.
Also, 1911's are generally oiled metal, not painted. I would add in a subtle metal grain over your gray, and add in a cool brown oil layer set to overlay on the border of any intersecting parts, and add in some extra specular to reflect that.
That's about all I've got as far as making it more realistic, the devil's in the details. Beyond that, the modelling is really spot on, I almost believe I could field-strip it. Your textures just need some extra love.
Why are both sides of the trigger guard/magazine/hammer/grip safety/etc. uvmapped separately? They're completely symmetrical! You (or whoever unwrapped it) is wasting a shit ton of UV space and making a lot more work for you, the texturer, and also missing out on having everything look higher res due to making better use of the same texture space.
worked more on the texture, mainly the spec, i feel like its coming together more heres some shots! more crits are welcome as art is never truely done, however, I feel that this is getting close to being called good! :thumbup:
Its coming along a bit better, I agree with Kitteh when he talks about unwrap though. If you want to make the bigger sections of the gun unique that's fine, but the small pieces, such as the hammer, trigger, and even the grips since they are not directly next to each other, would give you much more resolution for your textures and no one is going to notice that you stacked your UV's.
The biggest thing you could add right now is metal grain. the scratches look good but your missing the essentials for what makes up metal. Metals aren't just a flat tone of gray there is much more to it. look at this link to see what i mean. http://en.wikivisual.com/index.php/Colt_1911
so just so everyone knows, this is the look im going after, i think that is some sort of metallic paint, its not just metal it has a blueing coat over the metal portion.
Add a slight blue hue to the spec for metal, that will help give it the blueish look. Also google metal patinas and tweak / overlay / soften light w/e works for you, it helps with some slight colour variation to break up the metal etc.
so just so everyone knows, this is the look im going after, i think that is some sort of metallic paint, its not just metal it has a blueing coat over the metal portion.
That finish is one of two things:
- Parkerization, which is a phosphate-based finish that is much more matte and grainy than most people realize. Most US small arms from WWII used a parkerized finish on exposed steel surfaces, so if you need more examples showing that finish under different lighting, that would be somewhere to look
- Gunkote / MolyCoat / similar enamel finish... which ends up looking like a slightly smoother rendition of parkerizing.
The pic you chose has some of the worst lighting possible to show how those finishes truly react and appear under lighting. Find something with the lighting at an angle, or better yet look for somebody who posted a range video on YouTube of their 1911 in HD. You still need a lot of subtle variation in your texture within the parkerizing, and a LOT more variety and detailing in your spec. The bland spec map is killing your model something fierce right now.
In fact, give me a few minutes, I'm going to take some snapshots of one of my parkerized guns under better lighting for you. You need to see the same weapon under consistent lighting from different angles to understand the complex behavior of those chemical finishes.
First picture is of a parkerized muzzle brake. This is taken with over-the-shoulder lighting from the three-way bulb in my bedroom lamp.
Here's the same brake with a larger difference between light and viewing angle:
Now, on the flipside, here are pictures of my working carbine (Saiga 7.62x39mm). It has a moly / enamel-type finish that's very similar to some of the GunKote type enamel finishes popular these days. My apologies in advance for the somewhat futzy lighting, I've only got an old, cheap point-and-shoot digital and I had to tweak these in Photoshop to correct for the exposure.
Here's the rear of the receiver, showing the general character of the finish when lit directly but viewed at an angle:
Now here are a series of three shots showing how picky the scratches and specular details are about lighting and viewing angle. Watch the area within that cluster of rivets above the trigger in these next three pics, and especially watch what happens with the subtle angle change (watch the perspective change of the sling loop at the upper left for a good angle cue):
Here's another angle change for comparison:
And here's how quickly all that detail and complexity of the material gets lost when you hit it with a flash - but, good example of the material under harsher lighting, especially shows the graininess of the finish:
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need other pictures with different lighting or angles.
thanks for the detailed reply. It looks like i have alot to work on in my spec. I think that ill add scratching to the spec to show paint variation, rather than just scraching the diffuse and see how that works. I also will upload my updated spec as it is now much different than the spec i have posted, thank you all for the feed back thus far, it is really giving me alot of ideas on how to tackle this texture.
Your uvmapping is still really irking me. I just noticed the inside of the barrel is mapped with the same texel density as the back of the slide. Also you have a lot of weird scribbly looking details on the spec that look like they were just quickly drawn with a basic Photoshop brush and not touched afterwards.
I have to agree with Kitteh, the default brushes stand out a bit. I'm actually surprised at how good it looks despite those details anyway though. Props for that.
magazine should probably have more scratches on it. it gets jammed up the magwell a lot. magwell too needs to be scuffed up some. I'd also do rear of the slide where it gets grabbed a lot. and making it have that blue-ish tone to it would help a lot. atm it looks almost desert camo-ish
ok redid my spec, and my gloss, i feel like its looking better. i added some color on the diffuse at like 2 % although some may not see it i tried to bump it up but it became to obvious. these subtle changes take foreva
its definitely coming along, although you need a bit more grain in the specular.
Also play around with adding some small surface scratches here and there in the spec, so you get those scratches only showing when the light hits, to help sell that parkerized look.
You also have some very rough smudges, that really ruins it. Those smudges need to much more subtle, and much more frequent.
Also, add scratches on the barrel from the slide moving back and forward, as well as more scratches on exposed edges. It can help to just light the specular more on those.
As for the grip, it really needs work, notice on below picture how its dark and not shiny in the crevices, and only gives off a bit of smudged shine on the big, exposed diamonds..
There's a pretty good rule of thumb when it comes to metal and that is the diffuse is generally always much much darker then the spec. On most of my weapons the diffuse is actually pretty damn dark and the spec does all the work, if you look at a lot of tuts you'll notice the same thing. At the moment your diffuse really isn't that dark at all and spec not that light
Replies
-try some very very slight yellow in the spec map for the metal
-get yourself a gloss map, they're pretty essential to nailing most materials seen close
-get some subtle overlays happening
-what's with the lightened area near the trigger on the frame? it seems a little off and more something youd portray with spec or gloss
there's more but let's see how we go with that
You seem to be missing a manufacturer's label on the other side (ex: Springfield Armory) and on the base of the bullet around the firing pin (like R-P 45 Auto). The firing pin is also too small, it should be about twice the size you have it now.
Also, 1911's are generally oiled metal, not painted. I would add in a subtle metal grain over your gray, and add in a cool brown oil layer set to overlay on the border of any intersecting parts, and add in some extra specular to reflect that.
That's about all I've got as far as making it more realistic, the devil's in the details. Beyond that, the modelling is really spot on, I almost believe I could field-strip it. Your textures just need some extra love.
XOULILS SHADER:
Marmo:
The biggest thing you could add right now is metal grain. the scratches look good but your missing the essentials for what makes up metal. Metals aren't just a flat tone of gray there is much more to it. look at this link to see what i mean.
http://en.wikivisual.com/index.php/Colt_1911
also the grip looks a little to perfect.
keep it up you are close!!!
That finish is one of two things:
- Parkerization, which is a phosphate-based finish that is much more matte and grainy than most people realize. Most US small arms from WWII used a parkerized finish on exposed steel surfaces, so if you need more examples showing that finish under different lighting, that would be somewhere to look
- Gunkote / MolyCoat / similar enamel finish... which ends up looking like a slightly smoother rendition of parkerizing.
The pic you chose has some of the worst lighting possible to show how those finishes truly react and appear under lighting. Find something with the lighting at an angle, or better yet look for somebody who posted a range video on YouTube of their 1911 in HD. You still need a lot of subtle variation in your texture within the parkerizing, and a LOT more variety and detailing in your spec. The bland spec map is killing your model something fierce right now.
In fact, give me a few minutes, I'm going to take some snapshots of one of my parkerized guns under better lighting for you. You need to see the same weapon under consistent lighting from different angles to understand the complex behavior of those chemical finishes.
First picture is of a parkerized muzzle brake. This is taken with over-the-shoulder lighting from the three-way bulb in my bedroom lamp.
Here's the same brake with a larger difference between light and viewing angle:
Now, on the flipside, here are pictures of my working carbine (Saiga 7.62x39mm). It has a moly / enamel-type finish that's very similar to some of the GunKote type enamel finishes popular these days. My apologies in advance for the somewhat futzy lighting, I've only got an old, cheap point-and-shoot digital and I had to tweak these in Photoshop to correct for the exposure.
Here's the rear of the receiver, showing the general character of the finish when lit directly but viewed at an angle:
Now here are a series of three shots showing how picky the scratches and specular details are about lighting and viewing angle. Watch the area within that cluster of rivets above the trigger in these next three pics, and especially watch what happens with the subtle angle change (watch the perspective change of the sling loop at the upper left for a good angle cue):
Here's another angle change for comparison:
And here's how quickly all that detail and complexity of the material gets lost when you hit it with a flash - but, good example of the material under harsher lighting, especially shows the graininess of the finish:
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need other pictures with different lighting or angles.
:thumbup::thumbdown:
Also play around with adding some small surface scratches here and there in the spec, so you get those scratches only showing when the light hits, to help sell that parkerized look.
You also have some very rough smudges, that really ruins it. Those smudges need to much more subtle, and much more frequent.
Also, add scratches on the barrel from the slide moving back and forward, as well as more scratches on exposed edges. It can help to just light the specular more on those.
As for the grip, it really needs work, notice on below picture how its dark and not shiny in the crevices, and only gives off a bit of smudged shine on the big, exposed diamonds..
http://www.baitshopboyz.com/forum/uploads/NorthLogan/2008-09-27_220940_1917USGI640a.jpg
You need to pay attention to the smallest of details..
EDIT: You might wanna give this a read-through: http://philipk.net/tutorials/materials/metalmatte/metalmatte.html
Finished to me goign to try and get it into source or other games, pm if you want the files.
Hope you understand. Those holes are for bullet counting.
It's no so important though.
And about material. It's too... New.