First of all your gun is awesome. I would definitely like to see some texture on it . And a noob question: I'm a beginner and i use 3ds Max and box modeling to make my weapons. The question is how did you made yours? Beacause obviously it's not box modeling. If you could tell me or give me a good tutorial i would realy appreciate it. I will say it again I AM A BEGINNER Thanks in advance
Looks great, but I'm not sure your UVs are as nice as they could be. I get the leaving space for mip mapping, but it looks like your space between shells may be too generous in many places. Other places look totally empty. Poly count seems good for the level of detail you've managed, but it feels like your texture may suffer a bit from not using all of your UV space.
@HappyFool: I'm a Maya user, so I'm not sure about any good Max tutorials. Google "3dsMax Weapong Modeling Tutorials", and I'm sure you'll get plenty of hits. As a beginner, make Google your friend As for how I made this one, I have a pretty extensive record of my progress here : http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72785
@roosterMAP & 3D-209: I have a few opportunities to mirror UVs, but If I leave them overlayed, won't that make one side's normals inside out? I've had that problem before. I would really like to save texturing work (like you said, lots of pieces).
@Kitteh: 2048 makes it look SO MUCH BETTER, but I'm limited by a texture size budget. I'm thinking about working in 2048, and scaling down so I have a high res portfolio version
@roosterMAP & 3D-209: I have a few opportunities to mirror UVs, but If I leave them overlayed, won't that make one side's normals inside out?
Nope, make sure you mirror the UV shells and then check "ignore mirrored UVs" or whatever the option is in transfer maps. Pretty much all 3D packages and game engines auto-invert normals on faces with mirrored UVs these days so no need to worry.
You can delete faces on your baking lowres too if certain UVs are overlapped but not mirrored, in which case you'll run into seam issues unless the edge normals around the faces you delete and are casting from are hard. That last part may not have made sense, but it's 5am and I'm sleepy so I'll explain tomorrow if needed!
Both the nvidia and xnormal filters can do this. It just resets the normal lengths back to how they should be. If you've overlayed any details in photoshop you should do this. Here's an example.
Thanks for the help! I'll get on that and post my progress soon.
Just a quick sidenote, you may already know this but in the UV texture editor you can go to Image --> Shade UVs to see what's flipped and what's not. With the "Ignore Mirrored Faces" option checked in Transfer Maps, all the shells that shade red will be ignored during baking.
Since last bake:
-Mirrored a bunch of duplicate pieces to save UV space.
-Scaled all UVs up by about 10%. -Added RIS rails -Added emergency iron sights
-Added bullet
-Added a few other minor details
Barring any major crits, this is my final bake. I will now focus on texturing and refining my other maps.
Kitteh, you nailed it. I tend to over-saturate my textures a bit :P I desaturated just about everything, and it's looking much better now. Thanks
I am in the process of adding scratches, dirt, grime, and general wear-n-tear now. This last texture is nothing but flat colors with various cavity map overlays. When I get further into the wear-n-tear, the metal (and the whole texture, overall) won't look bland and boring. Following a sweet tut right now that teaches this workflow. I like it. Very logical :poly121:
i think yhis could really benifit from a great specular map. ive started hand painting metal and i find it works quite well. i'd make a tut but riducluously busy atm
It's taken me quite a while, but I'm happy with what I got. Learned an awful lot, and will have a much better idea of how to prepare my model for texturing next time.
I've actually used the predecessor of this, the old L96....anyway, great model, but you could do a lot more with the texture imo.
Firstly, the stock is more matte than you have it, its a type of plastic or composite or something, and tends to scratch up just a little. Secondly I think your metal could take another pass, for instance I cant really tell the difference between the metal barrel, the plastic/rubber buttstock and the scope....and perhaps some Afghanistan dust in the corners wouldnt go amiss?
Those white scrapes on your metal are a bit too noisy and don't follow the shapes of the model well enough. Also, the nicks on the stock are a bit overdone. Take all the damage on the metal out of the normal map, too.
erm, i'm pretty sure it's molded green and besides, making them black would look really odd. you're making this more complicated than it actually is sir kitteh.
your texture isn't holding up with those giant resolution renders, however when scaled down to fit the forum it looks way better. make smaller renders!
Replies
I believe it turns on the night-vision.
Seems like a nice bake! Very reasonable tricount too.
Nice gun though!
@HappyFool: I'm a Maya user, so I'm not sure about any good Max tutorials. Google "3dsMax Weapong Modeling Tutorials", and I'm sure you'll get plenty of hits. As a beginner, make Google your friend As for how I made this one, I have a pretty extensive record of my progress here : http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72785
@Racer445: What do you mean by renormalize?
@roosterMAP & 3D-209: I have a few opportunities to mirror UVs, but If I leave them overlayed, won't that make one side's normals inside out? I've had that problem before. I would really like to save texturing work (like you said, lots of pieces).
@Kitteh: 2048 makes it look SO MUCH BETTER, but I'm limited by a texture size budget. I'm thinking about working in 2048, and scaling down so I have a high res portfolio version
Nope, make sure you mirror the UV shells and then check "ignore mirrored UVs" or whatever the option is in transfer maps. Pretty much all 3D packages and game engines auto-invert normals on faces with mirrored UVs these days so no need to worry.
You can delete faces on your baking lowres too if certain UVs are overlapped but not mirrored, in which case you'll run into seam issues unless the edge normals around the faces you delete and are casting from are hard. That last part may not have made sense, but it's 5am and I'm sleepy so I'll explain tomorrow if needed!
Both the nvidia and xnormal filters can do this. It just resets the normal lengths back to how they should be. If you've overlayed any details in photoshop you should do this. Here's an example.
Just a quick sidenote, you may already know this but in the UV texture editor you can go to Image --> Shade UVs to see what's flipped and what's not. With the "Ignore Mirrored Faces" option checked in Transfer Maps, all the shells that shade red will be ignored during baking.
6,296 Tris
1 - 1024 x 1024 Normal
1 - 1024 x 1024 AO
Maps :
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/Polygoblin/AWSM_normals-1.jpg
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/Polygoblin/AWSM_occlusion.jpg
Since last bake:
-Mirrored a bunch of duplicate pieces to save UV space.
-Scaled all UVs up by about 10%.
-Added RIS rails
-Added emergency iron sights
-Added bullet
-Added a few other minor details
Barring any major crits, this is my final bake. I will now focus on texturing and refining my other maps.
C&C is welcomed and much appreciated!
Working on the texture atm. Still lots to do....
Starting the wear-n-tear. Going to add detail normals as I go. I still need to create the engravings and stuff too.
i certainly hope people don't hunt with this rifle... it seems like such a cheat lol
At first I thought this was something out of a CoD game ._.
I think the metal seams a bit boring a bit to uniform, and agree with Kitteh a bit to saturated and maybe to dark.
Other than that it's smashing
Kitteh, you nailed it. I tend to over-saturate my textures a bit :P I desaturated just about everything, and it's looking much better now. Thanks
I am in the process of adding scratches, dirt, grime, and general wear-n-tear now. This last texture is nothing but flat colors with various cavity map overlays. When I get further into the wear-n-tear, the metal (and the whole texture, overall) won't look bland and boring. Following a sweet tut right now that teaches this workflow. I like it. Very logical :poly121:
Starting to define each surface. Adding detail normals as I go....
Feedback is always welcome
C&C is welcomed and appreciated
*1024 shots for comparison, if needed*
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8508552/AWSM_Diffuse_V6c.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8508552/AWSM_Diffuse_V6b.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8508552/AWSM_Diffuse_V6d.jpg
I think it was worth it. Still have lots to do, but it seems like a good spot for a progress report. Feel free to offer any C&C
Hope you like
2048x2048 Diffuse, Normal, Specular
Crits are welcome, but I'm not going to touch anything further, unless it's absolutely needed.
awesome work
I would maybe change the lighting somewhat, tune down the extreme highlights on the metal parts, but other than that, this is really nice work!
I seem to struggle with lighting a bit, so any more suggestions there are greatly appreciated.
Firstly, the stock is more matte than you have it, its a type of plastic or composite or something, and tends to scratch up just a little. Secondly I think your metal could take another pass, for instance I cant really tell the difference between the metal barrel, the plastic/rubber buttstock and the scope....and perhaps some Afghanistan dust in the corners wouldnt go amiss?
Got some good feedback, so I decided to tweak some things.... again :poly124:
Update:
It's been a long project, but I'm calling it finished from here Hope you guys like what I came up with!
Thanks for taking the time to view my thread
-Ben
your texture isn't holding up with those giant resolution renders, however when scaled down to fit the forum it looks way better. make smaller renders!
Thanks for the advice, Racer445 I'll scale it down.