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Hand Painted Texture(s) - Practice and Critique

polycounter lvl 11
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Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
Hey fellas.

I've been putting off learning this skill for a really long time. It's become apparent that it is a necessary skill to have, and can only help.

So I've been looking at the low poly thread and some other resources on how to do this quite effectively.

This is a thread that will document my progress, along with any helpful critiques that you guys can give me. I'll try and organize my projects in terms of materials (stone, wood, metal, etc).

Hopefully this thread can be a useful resource to anyone who is going through learning how to hand paint textures.

All these textures are creative commons. Feel free to download them and use them if you would like to.



Here is my first attempt at creating a tileable handpainted texture. C & C please. I need to learn this, so tear me apart so I can rebuild myself stronger :-)

Floor_D.jpg
Floor_Nrm.jpg

Shot from crazybump

Floor.jpg

Replies

  • vj_box
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    This looks cool virtuos,but i also feel that it looks a bit wax like now. It can be crisp,dry and hard.I think thats the only critique or impression i would have on this one,but ya this is awesome.
    Vj
  • Cody
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    Cody polycounter lvl 15
    Great end result! Did you crazybump a photoshop layer for the normal?
  • Chittaranjan
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    Chittaranjan polycounter lvl 12
  • odium
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    odium polycounter lvl 18
    Biggest flaw i see is that your normal map is too cheap for the effect you created. You have a lot of depth and cracks in your diffuse but it doesnt show in your normals at all. Its hard to get this with hand painted textured because of the lack of real geo, so what I would suggest trying to do is using something like crazy bump, playing around with the depth a bit and merging your original normal map with the new one somewhat to create a combination. Sure, its not perfect, but its really hard to do this kind of work with hand painted normals, unless you pre-plan it before hand.

    Secondly some people have said it looks a lot like wax. This is a combination of two reasons, one is that your normal map is totally flat on the bricks, which will present a perfectly even highlight over the surface resulting in so specular difference at all, and two because you appear to not even be using a spec map. Rock doesn't really shine that much, so try at first going with a really dark colour, possibly a dark warm colour or maybe blue, but keep the spec levels low.

    It does work though, and has a nice style. I can't fault you for what you've done on the diffuse, its really nice and depends on the style of art your going for anyway.
  • Zack Fowler
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    Zack Fowler polycounter lvl 11
    The reason it looks like wax is because you've painted in very sharp highlights and mixed them with very soft gradients across the rock surfaces, which makes it look like light is not only bouncing off but traveling through the surface. Right now they are looking fairly blobby and rounded on the surface, to fix that you will want to simply have more crisply defined variation in value. Use a brush with fairly hard edge to go back over and flatten the surfaces.

    Even if you are going for a handpainted look, if you are going to use normal maps then you should not paint in as much lighting information as you have here. Edge highlights should just be due to worn down exposed edges turning a different color, and should be equally spread around the different exposed edges.

    That parallax in Crazybump looks pretty sweet eh!
  • Mark Dygert
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    Nice paintin' skills tex. Durn-tootin'.
    /Spit
    *DING*

    Crits:
    - Too much lighting info in the diffuse. Specifically the highlights painted with what looks like one specific light source in mind.
    - Normal is missing info. No dents, dings, or noisy stone detail.
    - Spec is also your diffuse? Right now your diffuse works more like a spec, remove the painted highlights, and turn the spec to have more subtle highlights around almost every edge not just from one imagined light source.
  • SHEPEIRO
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    SHEPEIRO polycounter lvl 17
    yeah^^^^^^^^^^^ and zackFs

    its seams a bit confussed what your trying to acheive, i would either hand paint everything, or normal/spec map it and use a shader to work with the hand painted effect.
  • LlamaJuice
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    LlamaJuice polycounter lvl 11
    Your normal is just the cracks between the rocks, which makes the rest of the normal map entirely flat... which makes all the rocks at the same "height". I'd toy with making different rocks slightly higher/lower than others and of course include your dented parts of the rocks in your normal, to just have the grout makes it look weird.
  • TicTac
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    Well right now he has some rises and falls painted into his texture (it looks like some coloured reflections, too?)

    Perhaps make a version of it without the highlights, a more detailed normal map, then toss it into crazybump again?
  • andersh
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    andersh polycounter lvl 10
    As a side note, is there a tutorial/trick to creating tiling hand-painted textures, or should I just go about it the usual way I would with photographic textures?
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    WOW! thanks for all the responses guys!

    Yea so i'd hate to make excuses but the reason the normal map came out flat is because i actually lost the PSD due to a photoshop crash, so i just had a flat layer left over because i was lucky enough to save it out to send to a friend. So i actually had to go in and create a sort of height map to get the normal to come out right, and i didn't take the time to hand paint in all the cracks and such.


    So what i've taken in so far... if i'm planning to use a normal map and a spec map with a hand painted texture, leave out the highlights and let the normal map and spec map do that job for me.

    For Rock - Hard brushes, no soft gradients.

    Guys i am going to redo this texture with all the information yo have just given me.

    Thank you so much for all the feedback!
  • Mazvix
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    You are jumping too far ahead. Focus on how materials are in real life. From what I can tell you are using airbrushes which is why its giving you that ceramic-ish look.

    I say focus on just 1 tile in photoshop and practice on it before you do a tileable texture. Groves arenever that dark, always make it a bit darker than what is around. In reality groves IRL are the lightest area because cement that they use is sometimes white, it's just painted darker in games for the sake of the shadows and separation of planes. Play world of warcraft and you will learn a lot.
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    K, here is the diffuse of my re-done texture. Took around 45 minutes to make. The first one took me like 2 hours.

    I tried to make it look a bit harder, i didn't add any highlights. I took Mazvix's advice into account and lightened the cracks a bit. I'll now work on the specular and normals.

    Stone_Floor_D.jpg



    [EDIT] Haha so my buddy spug was just like, "Well you threw a stone based texture overlay on it so it's not hand painted anymore."

    Shit. I'll try and give it that same texture feel without texture overlays. :-)

    this should be fun
  • Mazvix
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    andersh wrote: »
    As a side note, is there a tutorial/trick to creating tiling hand-painted textures, or should I just go about it the usual way I would with photographic textures?

    You have to do it the "offset" way, you don't need a tutorial for that lol. Every artist has his own way of doing things, you have to find yours which means less worrying and more tackling.
  • cholden
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    cholden polycounter lvl 18
    Your original was way better

    rgb0 is not a color, do not use it. Think of paining on the 0-100 brightness scale, never go out of the 25-75 brightness range. This way, when you LIGHT your scene, the texture has somewhere to go (brighter or darker). You can paint this all in greyscale for learning (makes it easier). From there, just handpaint until it looks done. If you go greyscale, a great way to add color at the end is with a gradient map. You can use a mix of colors here for some stylish looking outcome. Either way, avoid that photo overlay as long as possible. If it has a texture you like, turn that into brush and use that.
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    Thanks for the advice Cholden. Spug also told me to turn and offset some of the tiles so it doesn't look so perfect.

    I also got rid of the texture overlays and made a 2 brushes out of them. Here is the end result.

    Stone_Floor_D2.jpg

    I'm going to start on the normals and spec now.
  • Mark Dygert
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    There we go that's looking really good. I think it might be a tad light for a ground floor tile. They catch a lot of light sometimes and it might blow out pretty easily, but it really depends on the level and the lighting.
  • Nizza_waaarg
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    Nizza_waaarg polycounter lvl 15
    looks better man (i fail at hand painting so i can't really comment anyways :P)

    as long as it tiles properly without repeating too obviously it should look awsome (i'm guessing you can rotate certain tiles maybe?). Hope it looks cool on the normal map and all that too :)
  • Zack Fowler
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    Zack Fowler polycounter lvl 11
    Yeah, that's definitely a noticeable improvement. Start messing with custom messy brushes for large scale discoloration and texture (think along the lines of using a sponge to paint roughness on a canvas) and keep plugging away at various scuff marks and edge wear with a small sharp brush. I find keeping sharply defined details like edging and cracks on a separate layer above the more chaotic general surface texture a fairly easy way to work. You can draw in lots of heavy strokes for scratches or wear and then erase away with a low-opacity brush until you have the intensity you want. Play with the opacity, flow, and size of your brushes a lot -- using the number keys for opacity and brackets for brush size is indispensable to me.

    edit: Here's a quick anim to show the process I just described. The result I made might be a bit too beaten up for what you're going for but the process is the main thing. Worth noting that the anim just shows layers, not time progression -- I switched between working on the soft and sharp layers several times while painting.

    stone-paintover-anim.gif
  • mortalhuman
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    Hand painted? I'm done trying, at least for now. That being said, those are incredible to my eyes. I like the version before the most previous more, though. The offsets make the map look really interesting, but I would also require a second more uniform one - using the one with offsets only now and then in the uv set.

    I also very much liked the one before the last because the style is very different: Where the first one looks quasi-photo-realistic, the second seems to have lost some integrity to blurring which has left it feeling semi-pr.

    The final texture has been artistically amplified by your other work, the blur fits, but over all it leaves something to be desired as my taste was drawn to the really sharp and concrete looking one. I like the potential for a really funky normal map on that one more so than the last, and the offset - it's a good touch, but would be a sore thumb in any large setting. Make a uniform alternate, and you're set.

    Great work, worth my first post here. You're on a distinguished path, I can only hope to carry this kind of skill in pS one day.
  • nfrrtycmplx
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    nfrrtycmplx polycounter lvl 18
    I don't know if anyone's mentioned it... but i don't see it being addressed in paint overs or iteration.

    There's far too much black in the texture to make any normal map contribution useful for the cracks.
  • Kessler
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    Kessler polycounter lvl 17
    Handpainting is awesome!!!!!!!. great info fellas. those bricks made me jump back to my childhood. first paint at the top looks exactly like hero quest tiles. That game was sooooo awesome.
  • Marnik
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    Marnik polycounter lvl 8
    Wow, great painting and great advice!

    Makes my shitty handpainted textures look even more like a third grader playing with a tablet >_<
  • Sirdelita
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    Sirdelita polycounter lvl 10
    This is super fantastic! Did you use noise on the textures? and if you did, did you do normal or monochromatic?
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    Hey thanks for all the posts guys. This tread is becoming a great source for learning this stuff.

    I think this is one of those things that i'll definitely get better at over time as i refine my workflow.

    Sirdelita i actually didn't use noise, i just used a custom brush. I am under the impression that filters are a no-no. I could be wrong though
  • Mark Dygert
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    Every tool should be in your toolbox when you go to work. They are a means to an end. The unhealthy reliance on filters (and photos) is what you want to avoid but don't cut them out...

    If it looks "filtered" then you're doing it wrong =P

    Looking forward to seeing mawr!
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    K, more stone goodness.. I tried to nail consistency with the first one here, but i did something wrong along the way. I think i placed the bricks too far apart from one another, and i didn't get the feeling i was aiming for. Live and learn i guess.

    Things i kept in mind:

    nothing is white and nothing is black
    Stone scratches and chunks are usually lighter color
    no photo overlays, so i created several new brushes based off of stone photos.
    No light sources, since normals with spec will do alot of highlighting and shading for me.




    Stone_Bricks_D.jpg

    unrealshot1.jpg


    I'm going to start tackling metal and stuff tomorrow, either that or wood. We'll see. Once again, feel free to rip those textures apart for me.
  • torontoanimator
    its good to see others doing good handpainted work, i know from experience that handpainted stones can be one of the hardest things to paint, keep up the good work!
  • Acumen
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    Acumen polycounter lvl 18
    now that looks a bit too noisy.
    i think it destroys the handpainted look a bit, cause it makes it look very generic.
    not to imply anything, but to me it seems you used the noise to generate some structure on the stones, so you don't have to paint it all in like ZackF described. admit !! :D
    still i liked your very first version the best. you can just see the you put much more work in there, than the other tries, imo.
  • Pope Adam
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    Pope Adam polycounter lvl 11
    i approve! :) very nice virtuosic - this will be a fun thread to watch.
  • kodiak
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    A problem that I have with the texture is that you don't really see any cement or plaster type material binding the stones/bricks together. You really aren't going to see a wall like that without a lot of whitish plaster in-between the bricks.


    here are some examples that might help you

    Brick_wall.jpg

    brick_wall.jpg

    Also with that last example, it shows some good ways you can make the texture more interesting by pushing some of the rocks back, adding some damage here and there. You can go way beyond slightly different proportions and some minor cracks to make your texture a lot more appealing.
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    I lost my wacom tablet pen :-(
  • arrangemonk
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    arrangemonk polycounter lvl 15
    lol, thats why there is a pen holder to put the pen in

    painting with mouse isnt that hard^^
  • SHEPEIRO
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    SHEPEIRO polycounter lvl 17
    lol, thats why there is a pen holder to put the pen in

    painting with mouse isnt that hard^^

    nah thats why theres a gap between the function keys and the rest of em on yer keyboard
  • ZacD
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    ZacD ngon master
    I'm grab happy and put a lot of stuff in my pockets, one day after doodling on my intuos4 I must of stuck my pen in my pocket and went out. One of my friends needed to write down a phone number and reached into a pocket and gave me what I initially though was a pen. "Weird looking pen, what the f***, how do I write with this s***" was my friends response. Luckily I haven't lost the pen yet.
  • nfrrtycmplx
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    nfrrtycmplx polycounter lvl 18
    What do the refrigerator, washing machine, car seat, sidewalk, medicine cabinet, couch, park bench, girlfriends car/bed, space/time and table at a waffle house have in common?

    Yeahp...
  • Mark Dygert
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    lol, thats why there is a pen holder to put the pen in

    painting with mouse isnt that hard^^
    I think the real question is what is he doing setting it down...
  • Nysuatro
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    This is probably a stupid question. But what do you mean with soft and sharp layer in this img?
    Do you mean a layer where a hard brush us used and the other a soft brush?
    http://files.getdropbox.com/u/1340077/Misc/stone-paintover-anim.gif
  • Ryan Smith
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    Ryan Smith polycounter lvl 11
    My fucking god i found it in the street. I took it and my tablet to my car to go back to Ohio for a day, and i never used it... when i got back, i couldn't find my pen. Here i dropped it where i previously had dropped my car. Only problem, it was after a rainstorm, but the pen still works :-) no one ran it over either! yay!
  • Tumerboy
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    Tumerboy polycounter lvl 17
    lucky man! that's $70 in your pocket.
  • nfrrtycmplx
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    nfrrtycmplx polycounter lvl 18
    omg, now paint
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