I wanted to do some experimenting with getting zbrush more integrated with my current pipeline of hard surface assets. To ease into it I chose a relatively simple gun with a few intricate details to use in zbrush. Ended up with the AK-74M. Began the whole process the usual way by blocking it out in Maya. Block-in took roughly 3 (work) days. Once block-in was complete I started on the high poly with doing the more basic details in Maya the usual way then sent some of the more complex details into zbrush to use dynamesh subtract/add. High poly took about a day and a half.
Some negatives to this pipeline are that it can be super destructive if you're not being careful. It was also a bit a tricky to think in terms of subtraction on some of the parts at first, took a little coming around to.
Also a few of the parts ended up with much tighter edges then I wanted after sending to zbrush. A super easy fix I just wasn't paying close enough attention at the time, will need to go back and smooth them out a bit. All in all was pretty happy with the results of the high poly within the time frame. Still to come is low poly, baking, texturing. 100% accuracy was not the goal, just a usable, convincing high poly for baking a game ready mesh from, however crit is much welcomed! Especially if you see something that's glaringly not part of the 74M or is in fact missing.
Update 10-31-2014
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http://youtu.be/gd3-6t59uU0?t=13m31s
@Sammy: I'd say some of the edges are still too tight for my liking and want to thicken them still. The same amount of detail could have been achieved had it been done entirely in zbrush. The purpose of the block in mesh was to have a simple mesh to iterate on as I try to nail down proportion and shape and to have a solid mesh to start my low poly from so I'd say it saves time in the end, I guess it depends on what your daily workflow is like and which program you're more comfortable with too.
Some feedback about geo and look, not about weapon authenticity. I dont know what reference you are looking either .
Look forward to more updates!
I've got only small crits that i get on first look:
Got some bakes, pretty happy with how the dynamesh stuff baked.
1. Should be just the last 4 digits of the serial number. Besides, there is no letter "R" in the Cyrillic alphabet.
2. Missing spot-weld marks (you have them on the left side, just need to duplicate them on the right side). There are also spot-weld marks under the selector too, which would be visible when it's on safe or single fire.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll62/dr1553/100_5999.jpg
3. Missing locking lever. Probably not very important in first person, though.
4. This one is your choice, of course, but the windage drum usually sticks out quite a bit, so in first person it may look as if something's missing.
5. Just saw it's already been mentioned by BLACKMETAL, but anyway : AK74M uses a long-collar compensator - the one you've modeled looks like a short collar (used on the AK74). As the threaded part is longer on the new version, the older compensator wouldn't fit.
https://www.k-var.com/shop/skin1/pages/US/Articles/Muzzle_Brake/images/Arsenal_KVAR%20-%20Collector%27s%20Corner%20-%20AK-74%20Muzzle%20Brakes%20Final%20Version_img_12.jpg
https://www.k-var.com/shop/skin1/pages/US/Articles/Muzzle_Brake/images/Arsenal_KVAR%20-%20Collector%27s%20Corner%20-%20AK-74%20Muzzle%20Brakes%20Final%20Version_img_13.jpg
6. Normally, it's just a hole with no plug. Or, more exactly, the transversal pin is the plug.
7. Same thing as point 1. Just the last 4 digits of the s/n. Actually, the s/n on the receiver cover is more or less optional - it can be stamped, hand-written with an electric pencil (it was usually the case on AK74s) or missing altogether.
Only sitting at about 10k verts right now, which for current gen assault rifles is some what on the lower side.
Here's just a quick shot of the work in progress texture, haven't had much time to work on it but it's getting there. Also when I get a chance I'll do a short break down the zbrush workflow if anyone's interested, it's super quick and helps you get awesome high poly shapes while minimizing topology issues.
the metal has a lot of flashy detail and variation, i like it a lot
You aren't the first person to mention that. After looking at the ref more I think they used electrical tape, mine looks like dull packaging tape that should be glossier. I'll do some tweaking to it. Thanks!
looks good son!
can we get a FP shot?