Leslie's post got me thinking we should list any available resources for cross-polarized photography.
I find them extremely useful for both reference and texturing and anything thats freely available would be a great boon to have on my HD
please no pirated stuff.
Explanation of the process for getting these types of photos:
Surface mimic had some for sale a while ago. seems their blog is down at the moment but ill be sure to bump this once its back up, heres their original facebook post
I was always interested in these kind of photo's, ever since I saw that UDK tutorial with the head texturing stuff.
Does this work with any kind of camera? Do I need to get a special one?
From what I have gathered, what most people do with DIY projects, they just slap a Polarized piece of plastic, I guess, on the lens and lightsource(flash).
For example, would this work with my sony cybershot DSC-W380?
I was always interested in these kind of photo's, ever since I saw that UDK tutorial with the head texturing stuff.
Does this work with any kind of camera? Do I need to get a special one?
From what I have gathered, what most people do with DIY projects, they just slap a Polarized piece of plastic, I guess, on the lens and lightsource(flash).
For example, would this work with my sony cybershot DSC-W380?
Thoeretically yes, though you generally want a DSLR/mirrorless interchangable lens camera with manual controls and a hot shoe for triggering the flash, as well as a high quality lens.
Doing it with a point and shoot like that cybershoot will probably be a pain.
Yeah I don't expect to get great results for a P&S like I have, but would it be decent enough to do some studies with? I guess I already know the answer to that question, though.
I'll be doing some experiments later when I got myself some polarizing filters.
Also, I read that there are two kinds of polarizing filters, linear and circular.
How do I know what I need?
Looks like most DIY projects use polarized glasses. Are those linear?
Did a bit more research and apparently LCD screen have these polarizing screens on em as well. So for the DIY'ers out there.. you could take apart your old broken LCD screen.
I got one laying around that doesn't work anymore. Will experiment with that. =]
Did a bit more research and apparently LCD screen have these polarizing screens on em as well. So for the DIY'ers out there.. you could take apart your old broken LCD screen.
I got one laying around that doesn't work anymore. Will experiment with that. =]
yeah i actually used the information from my own photos to base the physically accurate textures for my tb2 beta scene using this setup
So it occurred to me that those cheap 3D glasses you get free at the cinema actually have polarized lenses. So I popped em out of the frames, rotated them vertically and Bam! It works. No more shiny noses.
Anyone have any detailed info on the difference between CIR and linear polarizers for the use of cross-polarized photography..? This info is super god damn useful to me right now!
There really isn't s difference between a linear and circular polarizer. Both do the same thing. A circular polarizer is generally only used on the camera lens and is comprised of multiple pieces of glass which allows you to rotate it around to change the polarization. A linear polarizer is one piece of film or glass and you'd have to rotate it manually to change the polarization effect. Typically you'd use a linear polarizer on the lights and a circular polarizer on the lens so you can quickly dial in the proper polarization, however, a linear polarizer on the lens would work fine as well. The benefit of the circular polarizer is that you can fine tune the polarization of light entering the lens quickly and easily
I'm planning on buying two studio softbox strobes with large linear polarizing film to put over them so I can shoot some nice head references. I've been thinking of getting this elinchrom kit to use with my nikon D810. I think I can get some great soft polarized light with this setup. Thoughts? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home/search?N=10906651&InitialSearch=yes&sts=pi
i finally got a cross polarized setup working. i had a bunch of gear already, but I invested another $300 to get it setup.
i'm using one camera, a nikon d810 with a nikon 105mm macro lenes along with a nikon sb700 flash and a nikon sb900 flash. i already had this gear so the cost to get the polarized setup wasn't all that much more for fairly entry level equipment.
i could only find 12" x 17" linear polarizing film at my local camera store so i purchased 2 of those along with 2 Photoflex small softboxes that are 16" x 22" I also had to grab the mounting equipment to fit my flashes into the softboxes.
I'm triggering the flashes with nikon's CLS on camera flash which is nice because I didn't have to buy any other hardware to trigger the flash units.
I mounted the linear polarizing film onto some matboard. I cut out a 17"x22" hole and used gaffer's tape to tape the polarizers down. I still need to come up with a solution to easily mount the polarizer onto the front of the softbox.
the setup works pretty well, but does have its limitations. there is a decent amount of light loss due to the polarizers and because the softboxes are very small and the flash heads aren't extremely powerful they have to be placed very close to the subject. I'd ideally like larger softboxes with more powerful lights to get some more even lighting on the subject, but that would have cost at least 3 or 4 times more money.
the resolution of the d810 is fantastic, i get some great high resolution raw files. i've attached a 100% crop from one of the images.
photo projecting these onto a mesh is great, there is far less cleanup work needed which is a huge time saver. i also do all my work at 16bit so that after i do the initial projection i still have room to adjust the texture's contrast and saturation.
I was reading up on that udn page: https://udn.epicgames.com/Three/TakingBetterPhotosForTextures.html But i'm a bit confused.. won't cross polarizing make your images darker if you're shooting with a single speed light like this? How did this author compensate for that?
polarizers will cause some light loss...you can compensate by opening up the aperture a bit ...but at the cost of losing a little bit of depth of field. also, I always shoot in RAW format and it allows me to tweak the exposure a bit if i feel the image is too dark.
Replies
http://www.surfacemimic.com/gallery/
their main site seems to work fine
havn`t really found any good ones myself yet
Gir: those are great
Leslie: Thanks hopefully you and I both can discover some more.
Lee: Good stuff. in that similar vein you reminded me of ten24's stuff:
http://www.3dscanstore.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=70
Does this work with any kind of camera? Do I need to get a special one?
From what I have gathered, what most people do with DIY projects, they just slap a Polarized piece of plastic, I guess, on the lens and lightsource(flash).
For example, would this work with my sony cybershot DSC-W380?
Thoeretically yes, though you generally want a DSLR/mirrorless interchangable lens camera with manual controls and a hot shoe for triggering the flash, as well as a high quality lens.
Doing it with a point and shoot like that cybershoot will probably be a pain.
Yeah I don't expect to get great results for a P&S like I have, but would it be decent enough to do some studies with? I guess I already know the answer to that question, though.
I'll be doing some experiments later when I got myself some polarizing filters.
Also, I read that there are two kinds of polarizing filters, linear and circular.
How do I know what I need?
Looks like most DIY projects use polarized glasses. Are those linear?
this is a pretty great resource.
Did a bit more research and apparently LCD screen have these polarizing screens on em as well. So for the DIY'ers out there.. you could take apart your old broken LCD screen.
I got one laying around that doesn't work anymore. Will experiment with that. =]
yeah i actually used the information from my own photos to base the physically accurate textures for my tb2 beta scene using this setup
http://www.3dscanstore.com/
I'm planning on buying two studio softbox strobes with large linear polarizing film to put over them so I can shoot some nice head references. I've been thinking of getting this elinchrom kit to use with my nikon D810. I think I can get some great soft polarized light with this setup. Thoughts?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home/search?N=10906651&InitialSearch=yes&sts=pi
I found this site which sells polarizing film in large sizes. http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html
I've had trouble finding large enough film to place over a softbox that is 24"x32"
linear polarizers to cancel out direct light bounce, and circular to cancel ambient light bounce.
Elaborate please.
http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/polarizers.html
i'm using one camera, a nikon d810 with a nikon 105mm macro lenes along with a nikon sb700 flash and a nikon sb900 flash. i already had this gear so the cost to get the polarized setup wasn't all that much more for fairly entry level equipment.
i could only find 12" x 17" linear polarizing film at my local camera store so i purchased 2 of those along with 2 Photoflex small softboxes that are 16" x 22" I also had to grab the mounting equipment to fit my flashes into the softboxes.
I'm triggering the flashes with nikon's CLS on camera flash which is nice because I didn't have to buy any other hardware to trigger the flash units.
I mounted the linear polarizing film onto some matboard. I cut out a 17"x22" hole and used gaffer's tape to tape the polarizers down. I still need to come up with a solution to easily mount the polarizer onto the front of the softbox.
the setup works pretty well, but does have its limitations. there is a decent amount of light loss due to the polarizers and because the softboxes are very small and the flash heads aren't extremely powerful they have to be placed very close to the subject. I'd ideally like larger softboxes with more powerful lights to get some more even lighting on the subject, but that would have cost at least 3 or 4 times more money.
the resolution of the d810 is fantastic, i get some great high resolution raw files. i've attached a 100% crop from one of the images.
photo projecting these onto a mesh is great, there is far less cleanup work needed which is a huge time saver. i also do all my work at 16bit so that after i do the initial projection i still have room to adjust the texture's contrast and saturation.
http://texturing.xyz/
https://www.facebook.com/texturingxyz/?fref=ts
BTW never saw Zippzops last post, good stuff man
But i'm a bit confused..
won't cross polarizing make your images darker if you're shooting with a single speed light like this?
How did this author compensate for that?
http://texturing.xyz/
and of course this awesome site:
http://www.3dscanstore.com/index.php?route=common/home
(although I don't think they offer photos for projecting, the photos have already been projected on the scan.)
Does anyone know of any places offering cross polarized photos of African Americans for characters? I've looked around but still can't find any.
Can anyone tell me if that's makeup on her face below her eyes on the last image.
https://www.healthline.com/health/dark-circle-under-eyes
..also women often "suffer" from all the chemicals in the make-up and so without.. the just look like this..