Hey guys, here I have few questions mainly about intersecting geometry, vertices and smoothing. In following examples I try to state what I struggle with while modeling. Hopefully you could enlighten me ^_^ . I am posting this because last time I tried to cut doorframe into car model, which didn't go very well.
Scene 1 - Lets say one is modeling ammo clip. A separate part, so you got few options
A - You do roughly blockout clip, then use turbosmooth or other smooth modifier to get the required shape. B - One can use splines to get perfect shape. No use of sub-dividing geometry afterwards, but number of polys will be a lot higher alredy.
Scene 2 - Intersecting geometry, one can use boolean, cut tool, doesn't really matter.
A - Whilst its 4 - quad or any or regular n-gons, it should be safe to use small amount of vertices and then subdivide. This often causes artifacts ( at least for me) B - rather to get the desired shape, then connect loose vertices.
Scene 3 - complex shapes that needs to be cutted out inside shape, such as guns, doorframes.
A - Better to blockout whole shape, then using boolean or cut tool, to get the shape. I tried this with doorframe but ended up with too many loose vertecies. B - Instead of blocking out, one will extrude around, making sure topology remains good.
Scene 4 - smoothing of individual parts of mesh. I saw people on youtube cutting the mesh into two, subdividing required part. Hovewer, afterwards subdivided part wasn't connected back. They often left a small gap between these parts. Lets just subdivide right part of mesh.
A - You subdivide whole mesh, even if left part is going to be empty. B - You cut the meshes in two, subdividing only right part. Do you connect them afterwards or not ?
Okay. Here is my question: I want build a wall around my scene just like the guy in this tutorial (7:40). Problem is, I'm using Maya, and I don't know how can you do it like that there. I know you can do it in 3ds max using loft (gif), but it's not working in maya. The only way I'm thinking of, is using extrud along the curves, like when you building pipes, but this metho seems sub-optimal for the wall.
In some more modelling trouble.. How would I re-top these tank treads for UE4? Im currently hand-modelling each piece but it's gonna take me days. Any suggestions?
Current attempt is colored red
Retopo one section. Create spline to match tread, copy along spline.
Followup question: How is that going to be animated? Bones? Texture/UV animation? That can help inform your modeling/baking also.
Hi guys I'm new to hard surface modeling and I've been practising complex shapes since. I've got some pinching problems with this model. How do I fix this issue and the topology as well? Thanks in advance.
Filip5: Why don't you just subdivide the entire mesh? What are you trying to achieve by splitting it up?
I just find it useless to have model with lets say 16 faces if you can have 4. I know I am speaking of low numbers, but imagine a complex scene. Every vertex matters.
@admiralpixel15@JonahH_M Decided to take a stab at the shape as well, looked fun! Just wanted to propose a different solution, because in a lot of situations, you don't actually need to add that much geometry. Sometimes using a ton of geo like that can make a cage more cumbersome to work with. Just aligning your boolean operands well tends to do a pretty good job. I doubt that the way I did it was perfect, but in this case, I basically aligned the cylinders edges in a way that a lot of the support loops would become almost built in after I booleaned them together. As you can see, the edges of the secondary cylinder flow right into the support loops of the main cylinder. It's a pretty handy way of working that has been demonstrated a lot in this thread, you should definitely take a look through it! Hope this helped out some.
Hey guys, I am having really hard time modeling viking ship hull. I tired it, but I didn't get even close to desired shape. Any ideas how to model side planks and that curvature ?
@gfelton Ok, but why that would be an advantage? What would make the (not offset) version I posted bad, in comparison? @Filip5 basically, each side of the hull is a deformed plane, with one loop for each plank; can you post your approach?
@Ausonian I tried that before using Lord @perna method. It works fine in some cases if you're doing that kind of model however I think it's much more convenient to use the cylinder's edges as control loops rather than introducing new edges.
@Ausonian let's see what Lord @perna will say I'm not trying to oppose on your idea. There will always be a different solution to one problem. I'm just following what the majority says...
Could someone help me see where I'm going wrong here?
I'm trying to model a coffee mug and having some trouble with the parts where the handle connects with the main body of the mug. I don't really see what is wrong with the low poly version, but when I subdivide there are some weird overlapping edges.
If I subdivide it further it's less noticeable, but still there:
Seems like you have it creased on the borders of the handle, and when the creased edge meets its uncreased brother on the cup the subdivided geo bends inward. If you want the handle to have a rectangular cross section Im guessing you need to add some support loops and ditch the creasing
Seems like you have it creased on the borders of the handle, and when the creased edge meets its uncreased brother on the cup the subdivided geo bends inward. If you want the handle to have a rectangular cross section Im guessing you need to add some support loops and ditch the creasing
thanks, I will try that though I'm not quite sure how to do it while avoiding pinching.
@miriamylam simply add more geometrie to you cylindicle form. you need this to get some supporting geometrie for your handle. here is how I would do this:
1. Start with your base but keep in mind how do you handle your support edge on ths cylindricle form 2. I know I would do this with double turbosmooth. So I started on 1. with a very low geo, because I knew I would get more geo with my first turbosmooth on smoothingroups. 3. Result
@Ausonian because its simply more accurate in my opinion. there is some missing geometrie in the cylindrical part. the software is doing exactly what it should be with this geo, or do I think wrong? xD
whoever posted that, the problem isn't modeling technique, problem is seeing. But it shouldn't be hard to see the shape, just follow the highlights in the wood.
When I started out I would make these kind of overpaints by hand. After a while you start seeing them automatically
Thank you for trying to help guys. The examples help a lot! However I have limited freedom on this model since I'm following very specific measurements.
@miriamylam That's either a bug or creased edges; what software are you using? The subdivision result should not look like that...
I'm using 3ds max. I think I tracked down the issue, it was a problem with smoothing groups. I applied a few iterations of turbosmooth without smoothing groups and it's a lot less bad, although I'm not getting quite the edge definition I was looking for on the handle.
And there is still some slight pinching, can you see it? Do you know how I can fix it? Wireframe:
Look, I don't want to be provocative, but I really want to understand why 1 is better than 2, with clear, non cryptic explanation for dumb people like me (and my english isn't perfect either)
@Ausonian The main reason being is that in the first example you can spread the control loops apart to achieve a smoother transition. In the second example, the middle loop extending from the corner is being constrained on a tighter Z-Type axis. In other words if there's pinching then it'll be more visible since you've essentially constrained the geometry into a single direction. In general it's better to use as little supporting geometry as you need and let SubD do the rest for you.
Hi all professional modelers. I just want to ask how do you model stuff from concept images? For instance you're going to model a futuristic gun concept you found on Google, how do you approach those? How would you know what the back looks like, the other side of the gun, the parts inside, or its measurement? Let's say I want to model this gun (see image), how can I approach that? I'm so sorry if it's kind of a stupid question I just want to know how you guys deal this situation. Thanks in advance.
Hi all professional modelers. I just want to ask how do you model stuff from concept images? For instance you're going to model a futuristic gun concept you found on Google, how do you approach those? How would you know what the back looks like, the other side of the gun, the parts inside, or its measurement? Let's say I want to model this gun (see image), how can I approach that? I'm so sorry if it's kind of a stupid question I just want to know how you guys deal this situation. Thanks in advance.
break it down to smaller chunks you can better digest. experience will help you closing the gaps in the design. i see a ton of cylindric shapes, a sphere, a few more complex pieces. stadt with the simpler stuff and work yourself up to the more complex stuff. If you have struggle imagining them in 3d. draw some simple wireframe like flow lines on top, just to get an idea how a shape behaves in 3d.
don't blockade yourself with the whole thing being so complex, start small and if you struggles ask others for help
@Neox Thanks for the advice and tips Sir. For instance there is this complex shape, should I model it as one part by combining different primitives or just lay it down there where it's supposed to be (like just penetrate it from the model)? This is where I get confused every time when it comes to modeling. Also every time I see detailed and complex shapes I always get intimidated and think that I cannot do it. I get jelous of people who can do such complicated, complex and detailed work (please see image to get my point). Anyways thanks in advance sir that really helps.
Hey guys, I am having really hard time modeling viking ship hull. I tired it, but I didn't get even close to desired shape. Any ideas how to model side planks and that curvature ?
One thing that helps me time after time: learn about the actual structure and construction of real world objects.
How was this ship made in real life? If we made these objects hundreds of years ago, then there is already a process in place that we can reproduce digitally and we probably have records of how it was made. My suggestion: watch a video about and read the Wikipedia page concerning the thing you are making. Learn, at least superficially, how this object is crafted. Learn the vocabulary and anatomy of the object you're studying.
As a plus, you get to learn some history, engineering, and carry that knowledge into the future.
Drilling down in Wikipedia (clicking links to learn terms you don't know) helps build a better picture, IMO.
Also, learning about your object lets you release some artistic anxiety and get into a mode where you are breaking the object into smaller parts.
For this particular object, I would start by just getting top, side and 3/4 reference of a similar ship and doing a simple 3D blockout to start. Ship blueprints exists for most types of ships, and finding that would help a lot.
@Neox Thanks for the advice and tips Sir. For instance there is this complex shape, should I model it as one part by combining different primitives or just lay it down there where it's supposed to be (like just penetrate it from the model)? This is where I get confused every time when it comes to modeling. Also every time I see detailed and complex shapes I always get intimidated and think that I cannot do it. I get jelous of people who can do such complicated, complex and detailed work (please see image to get my point). Anyways thanks in advance sir that really helps.
As a beginner, I certainly wouldn't try modeling every little detail on something this complex. Like Neox said, you can always break down complex structures like this into simpler shapes to make it easier. What I would do is build relatively simple geometry, and just convey the tiny details in the texture. If you're modeling for a game, that's most likely what you'll be doing anyways to make it easy to render.
Just keep practicing and stuff like this will be no problem eventually!
For this particular object, I would start by just getting top, side and 3/4 reference of a similar ship and doing a simple 3D blockout to start. Ship blueprints exists for most types of ships, and finding that would help a lot.
Good luck!
Thank you for pointing out those things, jengy. I found some ship plans around building a viking ships, but many of those shapes differ as you pointed out. I tried to model that around 4 times, but smoothing ruined it every time, so I putted it aside until I get more experience for such models...
Thank you for pointing out those things, jengy. I found some ship plans around building a viking ships, but many of those shapes differ as you pointed out. I tried to model that around 4 times, but smoothing ruined it every time, so I putted it aside until I get more experience for such models...
Can you post some screenshots of the smoothed model? A visual example will help with contextual feedback. Also, what tools are you using to model? (Maya, Zbrush, Blender?)
Hi, I'am having a few problems trying to make a perfectly smooth pipe shape with this pattern cut into it using Maya, if any one has any solutions or can help it would be greatly appreciated cheers..
@Callaby32 read the past few pages of this thread and you will find a ton of this kind of questions. Try to use this tips and tricks, than you will find a easy solution by yourself.
Replies
Scene 1 - Lets say one is modeling ammo clip. A separate part, so you got few options
A - You do roughly blockout clip, then use turbosmooth or other smooth modifier to get the required shape.
B - One can use splines to get perfect shape. No use of sub-dividing geometry afterwards, but number of polys will be a lot higher alredy.
Scene 2 - Intersecting geometry, one can use boolean, cut tool, doesn't really matter.
A - Whilst its 4 - quad or any or regular n-gons, it should be safe to use small amount of vertices and then subdivide. This often causes artifacts ( at least for me)
B - rather to get the desired shape, then connect loose vertices.
Scene 3 - complex shapes that needs to be cutted out inside shape, such as guns, doorframes.
A - Better to blockout whole shape, then using boolean or cut tool, to get the shape. I tried this with doorframe but ended up with too many loose vertecies.
B - Instead of blocking out, one will extrude around, making sure topology remains good.
Scene 4 - smoothing of individual parts of mesh. I saw people on youtube cutting the mesh into two, subdividing required part. Hovewer, afterwards subdivided part wasn't connected back. They often left a small gap between these parts. Lets just subdivide right part of mesh.
A - You subdivide whole mesh, even if left part is going to be empty.
B - You cut the meshes in two, subdividing only right part. Do you connect them afterwards or not ?
Followup question: How is that going to be animated? Bones? Texture/UV animation?
That can help inform your modeling/baking also.
And the boolean operands:
What's the convenience of offsetting, in your first example?
Ok, but why that would be an advantage? What would make the (not offset) version I posted bad, in comparison?
@Filip5
basically, each side of the hull is a deformed plane, with one loop for each plank; can you post your approach?
oooooooooooooooooooook, if it works for you...........
I'm trying to model a coffee mug and having some trouble with the parts where the handle connects with the main body of the mug. I don't really see what is wrong with the low poly version, but when I subdivide there are some weird overlapping edges.
If I subdivide it further it's less noticeable, but still there:
Help very much appreciated.
1. Start with your base but keep in mind how do you handle your support edge on ths cylindricle form
2. I know I would do this with double turbosmooth. So I started on 1. with a very low geo, because I knew I would get more geo with my first turbosmooth on smoothingroups.
3. Result
Why?
@miriamylam
That's either a bug or creased edges; what software are you using? The subdivision result should not look like that...
That mug is a pretty simple shape, miriamylam mesh should subdivide well
@TeriyakiStyle
Nobody is a bible here, can I disagree on something?
Ausonian said: I'm using 3ds max. I think I tracked down the issue, it was a problem with smoothing groups. I applied a few iterations of turbosmooth without smoothing groups and it's a lot less bad, although I'm not getting quite the edge definition I was looking for on the handle.
And there is still some slight pinching, can you see it? Do you know how I can fix it? Wireframe:
The main reason being is that in the first example you can spread the control loops apart to achieve a smoother transition. In the second example, the middle loop extending from the corner is being constrained on a tighter Z-Type axis. In other words if there's pinching then it'll be more visible since you've essentially constrained the geometry into a single direction. In general it's better to use as little supporting geometry as you need and let SubD do the rest for you.
Try this (the starting cylinder is 20 sides)
...
i see a ton of cylindric shapes, a sphere, a few more complex pieces. stadt with the simpler stuff and work yourself up to the more complex stuff. If you have struggle imagining them in 3d. draw some simple wireframe like flow lines on top, just to get an idea how a shape behaves in 3d.
don't blockade yourself with the whole thing being so complex, start small and if you struggles ask others for help
just give it time, go from simple to complex, from rough to detailled, break down complex shapes to simpler things you can handle more easily.
just give it time and stay at it
How was this ship made in real life? If we made these objects hundreds of years ago, then there is already a process in place that we can reproduce digitally and we probably have records of how it was made.
My suggestion: watch a video about and read the Wikipedia page concerning the thing you are making. Learn, at least superficially, how this object is crafted. Learn the vocabulary and anatomy of the object you're studying.
As a plus, you get to learn some history, engineering, and carry that knowledge into the future.
Here's a page I found that might be helpful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viking_ships
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clinker_(boat_building)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_and_tenon
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/3c/9d/83/3c9d83670a7920b60971806345a0c491.jpg
Drilling down in Wikipedia (clicking links to learn terms you don't know) helps build a better picture, IMO.
Also, learning about your object lets you release some artistic anxiety and get into a mode where you are breaking the object into smaller parts.
For this particular object, I would start by just getting top, side and 3/4 reference of a similar ship and doing a simple 3D blockout to start. Ship blueprints exists for most types of ships, and finding that would help a lot.
Good luck!
Here's a bonus image of a hull comparison:
Just keep practicing and stuff like this will be no problem eventually!
Also, what tools are you using to model? (Maya, Zbrush, Blender?)
Any idea how can I do this to get hexagon sphere...?
Is it possible from sphere shape...?
Thanks.
http://www.giyf.com/