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How do you texture?

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Ravenok polycounter lvl 7
Hey everyone,

Up until today, I put much focus on sculpture (real and digital), and less on painting and texturing. When it comes to the technical part, I know how to texture, and done it a lot. UVs and software stuff, using ZBrush or traditional painting on UV snapshots, etc. Artistically though, I didn't put much effort, since I had other things in my mind. I would use mainly real life photos, or pretty basic painting on snapshots or in ZBrush.

Now though, I'm starting to focus on improving my texturing ability, and would like to hear as many different approaches to texturing, as many of you here have such amazing results I wish I could have myself. :)

So I'd love to hear, how do you texture?
Do you paint it all, or use photos?
Do you paint on the UV snapshot, or in ZBrush/Bodypaint/Mari?
Do you do it on the high poly, or on the low poly?
Do you use sculpting to get cavity maps to use for things such as fabric textures and skin textures?

Anything that could help me get my hands on a few neat techniques, and a proper workflow, would be really appreciated and helpful for me :)

I'm more into painting textures myself by the way, and would love to hear methods on creating highly detailed textures that way.

Thanks all!

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  • LRoy
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    LRoy polycounter lvl 10
    That's a big question. Here's loads of info. Better start reading!

    http://wiki.polycount.com/TexturingTutorials

    Also, this is in the wrong section.
  • Ravenok
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    Ravenok polycounter lvl 7
    Oops, I didn't notice I was at the wrong section. I just opened the thread. That's not the first time too, sorry about that. :)

    Either way - thanks for the link, but I read the wiki often... what I'm looking for is really, some personal tips from fellow artists, about workflow and such, nothing so broad as a step by step tutorial. Although tutorials are awesome, and there ARE some I didn't read in the wiki, so thanks for the reminder. :)
  • Jessica Dinh
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    Jessica Dinh polycounter lvl 10
    Personally, the way I texture depends on how I'm modeling. If I'm making a high poly model, I usually just do photo manipulation. If it's more low poly and stylized, I hand-paint. Some people paint over photos, but when I hand-paint I like to straight up just paint haha. If I want to get cool textures in there, I just use different brushes.

    Post some work and progress and just let the community help you out! :D
  • euclidius
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    euclidius polycounter lvl 17
    I was just wondering about this the other day- thanks for starting the info Blaken :]
  • Xaltar
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    Xaltar polycounter lvl 17
    All of the above save bodypaint/zbrush etc. I typically hand paint some, photo source overlays (desaturated or greyscale) and use lighting/AO bakes to help get the lighting info I want then adjust layers untill it looks the way I want it. Then I merge the lot and save it out as my texture after saving the layered file as a backup incase I decide to change anything down the line. After I have a merged image I do the fine tuning on a single layer using smudge/push etc to get rid of seams or move things about a little. Final step is using "tweak UVs" in max to further get things lined up and buttoned down. I am pretty sure my way is not the best way to do it but its the way I have kinda gotten used to and it works for me.
  • Racer445
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    Racer445 polycounter lvl 12
    well, what are you texturing? doing hand-painted textures is a slightly different experience from entirely photosourced realistic stuff.
  • Ravenok
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    Ravenok polycounter lvl 7
    Well, honestly even when I do realistic stuff, I'd rather be able to paint them than have to rely on photos. I think painting something from scratch, even a completely realistic texture, gives it a unique feel. Either way, I texture mostly my own characters, which are rarely realistic. Even if they are, I usually prefer a more stylized result.
  • Jessica Dinh
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    Jessica Dinh polycounter lvl 10
    Hazardous has some really crazy texturing. I think a lot of his work is really realistic, and yet much of it is purely hand-painted (for example, his skin):

    "You'd actually be surprised at how this layer upon layer upon layer of random brushes can end up mimicing just about any damned material you can possibly think of and look remarkably photorealistic without just slapping a photo down."

    I think, if you haven't seen this thread already, you could find a lot of the information in here pretty helpful! [:

    http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87907&highlight=rubi+malone
  • Ravenok
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    Ravenok polycounter lvl 7
    Thanks for the link :)
    Now I've become obsessed with finding out how to get these hair strands to be well placed. :)
  • leilei
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    leilei polycounter lvl 14
    Blaken wrote: »
    So I'd love to hear, how do you texture?
    Do you paint it all, or use photos?
    Do you paint on the UV snapshot, or in ZBrush/Bodypaint/Mari?
    Do you do it on the high poly, or on the low poly?
    Do you use sculpting to get cavity maps to use for things such as fabric textures and skin textures?

    Well, here's how not to texture.
  • Ravenok
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    Ravenok polycounter lvl 7
    Haha leilei

    I know many people work like that, so I can't say if you're serious or not :P

    I know I'd love a good way to paint over my model. The high-poly one that is. I've been looking at getting Mari, but I'm not sure.
  • EiGHT
  • Wells
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    Wells polycounter lvl 18
    Here is how i texture

    xwood01steps.jpg
  • Cap Hotkill
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    Cap Hotkill polycounter lvl 13
  • Ravenok
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    Ravenok polycounter lvl 7
    Pff. Lots of awesome info and knowledge. Thanks so much. Sectaurs, your technique is pretty straightforward, and your results are just awesome. Sometimes we get so caught up in finding good techniques that we forget about good ole' painting...

    Your website's in my favs too. I hope you do international jobs :)
  • cain3D
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    i have a BIG question relating to this post. I have made many low poly models and maps for those models. I am not working on a model that I would like to keep and texture at HIGH POLY. Can anybody please please let me know if there are ways of going about this. I am stumped at the thought of unwrapping 400,000 tris...
    Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • Jessica Dinh
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    Jessica Dinh polycounter lvl 10
    You really don't want to make a normal map from your high poly and just make a low poly to texture? I've never heard of anyone unwrapping and texturing their high poly before...
  • dpadam450
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    dpadam450 polycounter lvl 9
    I am stumped at the thought of unwrapping 400,000 tris...
    Thats why you dont. And what is the reason for keeping 400K tris? You can always sub-surface your low poly and use displacement mapping. DX11 tessellation takes care of that anyway.

    The original idea of textures. I HATE painted textures (in most cases). Some textures you look at and can tell 100% sure they are not from photo because they don't look right at all. I think a lot of hand painted ones can come out just fine, but I don't know if they take a lot longer or not. I always use photos. A photo of a 2D surface is exactly the uv projection of something in real world. So why would you not use something that is real. You cant get more real than real.

    Of course if real is the style you are going for.
  • jimmypopali
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    Pelt+relaxing? Got me.
  • Bobby J Rice 3rd
    Zbrush - PolyPaint!
  • Justin Meisse
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    Justin Meisse polycounter lvl 18
    if I'm doing a prop I usually do an ao bake - put that as a multiply layer and paint under that. I also usually put a gradient ramp on the AO so it isn't shading with black.
  • MeintevdS
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    MeintevdS keyframe
    dpadam450 wrote: »
    A photo of a 2D surface is exactly the uv projection of something in real world. So why would you not use something that is real. You cant get more real than real.

    Of course if real is the style you are going for.

    Because any picture you take will take lighting and reflection info with it. So unless you spend lots of time painting those thing out you'll have highlights/reflections of the environment the picture was taken in. Sure photos are an awesome tool and shouldn't be ignored if they do the job right. But you can't just expect simply dropping a picture onto your model to be enough.
    Also, if you were to model (for example) a crocodile and you'd sculpt in the scales for your normal map, then it would be impossible to find a picture that would perfectly fit the normal map. So either you'd spend tons of time using the liquify tool and other tools to adjust the texture to your normal map/model or you could just hand paint the texture.

    You don't have to always paint everything, using photo sources is smart to safe time, but never only rely on photos to do the job for you, they contain fake lighting information that can make it look more unrealistic than a hand painted texture will.
  • konstruct
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    konstruct polycounter lvl 18
  • iniside
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    iniside polycounter lvl 6
    Highpass filter is you friend when working with photos.
    Not solution to all problems.. but solves most of them.
  • Fingus
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    Fingus polycounter lvl 11
    I've grown fond of projection painting. I haven't done any texturing in a while but when I did I was experimenting with using applications like Mudbox, 3DCoat and zBrush's zApplink plugin to texture. The ability to jump between Photoshop and 3D space eliminates the guesswork of painting on your flat texture, and then reloading the texture in your 3D app to see if you got it right.

    Here are two examples:

    http://vimeo.com/17231029
    http://vimeo.com/5820395

    So far I've found 3DCoat to be the best one at this. It can project into a viewport grab, but can also send the flat texture to Photoshop as well. And it keeps all your layers and blending modes so you don't need to merge everything into one layer like with zBrush. It makes the workflow a lot less destructive. I believe Mudbox has the same features, but it runs like ass on my machine so I haven't been able to use it extensively. From what I tried 3DCoat seems to handle seams, mirroring and overlapping a lot better though. And its built in panting tools are much better.
  • tda
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    tda polycounter lvl 16
    I'm a fan of zbrush polypaint. I used to be really put off it because of zbrush's hard to approach nature, but after sitting down to learn how to use it i wouldn't be without it anymore. Now whenever i make a model to sculpt i always give my base meshes a good unique UV so i can make the most of it. Paint some, export the texture, fiddle with it in photoshop, bring it back, etc. The mask by cavity thing in zbrush really lets you get a ridiculous amount of detail in there, using your sculpt to do the hard work. Shit is lightning fast.

    I think the thing i like about it most is that it's all vertex colour based, so once you do your game rez retopo you can bake it out along side all the other maps it'll come out perfectly seamless with xnormal. Of course polypaint has its limitations and the output usually needs some photoshop love before the texture is 100%, but i think this can be said of any method really.

    I only use it for organic things though, for other materials like metal or wood i stick pretty much exclusively to photoshop and photosourcing.
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