That bike you didn't get for christmas..

Insulaner

Instead of cluttering the WAYWO thread, I'll just give it it's own thread.
I've been working on a bike for some time now.

High poly shots:







Low poly shot:



CryEngine2 shots:









I'm using a 1024x1024 for the bikes body and a 1024x512 for spokes and the cogs, I'm gonna resize that to 512x256, but I was too lazy for that yet.

The bike comes in at around 15k triangles. If this was for any game purpose, I probably would have gotten rid of a lot of details that you wouldn't have seen in a game, but want to end up with a final shot that looks something like this, so I kept most of the details in the lowpoly as well.

Still gotta fix some small things, then it|s off to texturing it..

katana

Mongoose?

Wish I still had my Schwinn Stingray.

Jessica Dinh

WOW. That looks pretty amazing, especially the CryEngine shots . . . The high poly looks really beautiful and clean. For the low poly though, I'd prolly half the number sides on some of your cylinders (all of the metal bar parts). I don't think they need quite so many to still look round and smooth, especially after you've baked your high poly onto it. Neato, I can't wait to see textures!!

Oh, also check out the end caps on your handlebars. Big ngon XD

Insulaner

Jessica Dinh wrote: »

Oh, also check out the end caps on your handlebars. Big ngon XD

Works though..

ghost-d

Amazing bake. For a while I really thought it´s all hipoly. Great job. Keep it up!

tesher07

Looks amazing but the front fork doesn't seem right at the bottom. Does the fork really connect to the front tire like that?

Pedro Amorim

oh ok i see what you did there looks cool
where was this baked? cause it looks great in cry2.

marks

I hate to rain on your parade, but this is pretty inaccurate. Your lower fork legs are far too thin, seat tube and seatpost are too thin, seatstays and chainstays are too thin, brake lever is at a silly angle, the bolts holding the handlebars to the stem should sit in a recess to be flush with the stem body, rear brake caliper is too small/thin, pegs are too small and too short, driver on the rear wheel would never be hollowed like you have it, you're missing the top half of the headset (even integrated headsets have a top part poking up out of the head tube), you have the brake cable attached back to front on the rear brake caliper, steerer tube is too thick ...

This is probably gonna be easier to do a paintover. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you need, I've ridden bmx for like 8 years or more, also worked as a bmx mechanic. I'll see about a paintover aswell for you.

Insulaner

pedro, I baked it with xNormal and put it straight into CE2.

marks, thanks for the detailed feedback, I'll try to fix as much as possible,. I might come back to you though, since I don't even know where some of the parts you mentioned are..

Jessica Dinh

Yeahh, he WOULD run into a bmx expert . . . XD

STRIKER

hahaahah that was great.

awesome model btw

Snader

don't use these exact numbers ofcourse.


edit: also make the spokes of geo. Would cost you 600-800 triangles, save texture space and look better.

Possibly add a couple dozen polies to the rear of the saddle.

marks

I thought the spokes looked fine personally. You know, apart from them being laced to the wheel incorrectly ;D its a pretty weird pattern to explain

Super Happy Cow wrote: »

Hahah. I love this site, and how fu***** hard it is to be a good 3D artists. It's so inordinately difficult.

You can never know enough, huh? : P

It's brilliant though, right? It literally forces you to look at the world in a different way.

Insulaner - I'll try and sort you some ref photos along with that paintover today, its still dark here though so I ripped some proportion examples off facebook quickly - this is much more the proportions you want to be aiming for with the forks, frame tubing and peg size/length:

sltrOlsson

Thought about the spokes. A quick fix might be just offsetting one of the sides 15% (i'm i right?). I guess you know what i mean. Bakes looks really sexy this far!

Baddcog

Bike looks pretty good.

Major issues I noticed.

1-bars need some sweep, would be very uncomfortable to ride a bike with completely straight bars (each grip should sweep back at 5* angle)

2- spoke lacing. Lacing radial (straight out) is fine for front wheel. The only torque applied is from the brakes, and you have none.

However, you can't laced a rar wheel without a cross pattern. When you crank it would twist the rim away from the hub too easy. Cross pattern fixes that because you have spokes leading and trailing the hub.
As you can see in the posted pic the rear wheel has a 3 cross pattern and the front is radial.
Most common is 3 cross, 32 spokes (16 per side) (a spoke crosses 3 spokes on it's side of the wheel) (some flatland bikes use 3 cross 48 spoke wheels)
Basically it looks like a spoke goes straight up from each side of the hub, not the center of hub)

Then you need to rotate that pattern by half for the other side of wheel. (all the right side spokes go into every other hole on rim)


Lighter weight (ie: not BMX bikes) bikes sometimes have 2 cross as shorter spokes weight less), less common is a 'crows foot' pattern. every third spoke is radial, and the other spokes are in a 4 cross pattern (difficult to lace and takes too many spoke lengths for no real purpose other than looks)

---

OK, this pic is a 36 spoke pattern, but 3 cross so the same applies to 32 spoke pattern.

The green pattern is the base for 3 cross, One spoke is on outside of hub, one is on inside of hub.
That pattern rotates 8 times around wheel (16 spokes) as indicated by next set of blue spokes.

Then same pattern on other side of wheel offset by one spoke hole on rim/hub.

Of course there are 9 patterns per side in the pic (9x2=18, x2 sides of wheel= 36)