TeriyakiStyle: Thanks, I thought it would add a bit more size reference.
I started work on the high poly version. I ended up changing the structure a fair amount. Also I decided to loose the metal bits at the end of the engines to free up some polies.
I need a bit of help. I haven't done much high poly before and I have done even less non-organic models. So in order to keep my hard edges after I smooth them I have been beveling them. This seems to work great for outer edges but doesn't work so well on inner edges. The edge themselves are ok but the area next to them ignores the edge and curves over it...it's kind of hard to explain so heres a picture.
Instead of beveling your edges to keep them hard try using the poly crease tool. It allows you to decide how much you want the high poly model to conform to the original mesh. This may not be appropriate for all situations but it generally works out well for me.
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Instead of beveling your edges to keep them hard try using the poly crease tool. It allows you to decide how much you want the high poly model to conform to the original mesh. This may not be appropriate for all situations but it generally works out well for me.
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Is that in Max? I don't believe I've ever heard of it/used it.
Ghostscape: Yep, crease settings are found in the Editable Poly rollouts. I generally don't use it because it gives a "perfectly" sharp edge, as opposed to a thin bevel that will catch light in a more natural way.
Brandon: Yeah, using smoothing groups is a quick hack for getting hard edges, but the trouble there is you get very exact hard edges. On real objects, there's always a slight roundness to an edge (aside from some kind of knife or sword or something, for the most part) This is especially apparent when your material has quite a bit of specular and gloss. With 100% hard edges, the edges wont catch the hilight because there's nothing there.
I always do my hipoly with plain old ring-connects for the most part, with occasional chamfer (good for semi-hard edges)
or you can use edges and edge loops to control your smoothness on the high poly model.
in 3ds max the connect feature is a god send with high poly modeling.
i've been working on a tutorial / work flow for this for a little while now... maybe I'll just post a quick screen cap to show what i mean if it isn't clear.
Replies
I started work on the high poly version. I ended up changing the structure a fair amount. Also I decided to loose the metal bits at the end of the engines to free up some polies.
So any help with this would be great!
PS. I'm using Maya
Do this. When you bevel your edge make sure your tris don't cut the border too fast. One way is to always report them on a larger face.
If so then when Meshsmoothing tell it to "smooth by smooth groups"
works like a charm...
Instead of beveling your edges to keep them hard try using the poly crease tool. It allows you to decide how much you want the high poly model to conform to the original mesh. This may not be appropriate for all situations but it generally works out well for me.
[/ QUOTE ]
Is that in Max? I don't believe I've ever heard of it/used it.
I always do my hipoly with plain old ring-connects for the most part, with occasional chamfer (good for semi-hard edges)
in 3ds max the connect feature is a god send with high poly modeling.
i've been working on a tutorial / work flow for this for a little while now... maybe I'll just post a quick screen cap to show what i mean if it isn't clear.
I just use chamfered edges because it gives you a better edge.
Heres a near finished high poly: