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DTA SRS Sniper Rifle

polycounter lvl 11
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Fridock polycounter lvl 11
Here is freshly done sniper rifle rendered in Marmoset Toolbag 2.

Aqwaqkw.png
KLHaEIT.png
LHjf9uX.png
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Guys, i need help - how do i make the render in 3ds Max with default scanline renderer look at least any good like if i did it in Marmoset (i mean i want 3ds max use all of the materials: Gloss,Normal, Specular, Diffuse like marmoset use). Well, technically, i want to know how do i fit the materials properly, here is freshly done sniper rifle rendered in Marmoset Toolbag 2. I don't use Max on regular basis, so this is very difficult for me.
Here is what i have achieved so far
OMpzlq7.jpg
ZrQ4ojC.jpg

Replies

  • dazzerfong
    For the Marmoset renders, the parts (especially the scope) are far too glossy. You have any texture maps?
  • Shrike
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    Shrike interpolator
    something is odd about the proportions. The scope is very likely too small.
    Youre not gonna get the shaders as nice as in marmoset that easily or easy at all.
    You have superior lighting in offline but thats it, but I really would not bother learning 3ds for rendering, especially not for game art. And its different and uses other standards, you would have to change your maps etc etc.
    Marmoset is made for rendering only, and 3ds materials are made for questioning your life decisions.

    Get the 3 point shader or marmoset and do your presentation there, the rest is just wasted time imo. Get unreal 4 or unity with shader forge and then try in a real node based editor meant for games if you want to learn it.

    Dont do the same mistake as me and mix offline and realtime render workflows. It will confuse you and it just got really easy in realtime.
  • JoshWilkinson
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    JoshWilkinson polycounter lvl 9
    I believe Shrike's on point with the size of your scope. If I'm not mistaken, you models Aimpoint's red dot sight, which offers no magnification and therefore isn't really applicable on a sniper rifle. However if you're looking for suggestions, I have plenty to offer.

    Leupold is my personal favorite scope manufacturer; traditional and minimal. However if you're looking for something with a little more aggression to compliment your game design art, Vortex Viper optics are pretty rugged. But if niether of those work and you want cutting edge, the ATN ThOR thermal scope is pretty intense. Just remember that whatever route you chose, your scopes can look a lot more intense with the scope mounts you choose.
  • DWalker
    Schmidt & Bender PM II scopes are used by the US Marines as their sniper day scope; sure they're more expensive, but that's hardly a problem here. ;)

    Why on the world would you put a vertical grip on a sniper rifle? You'd only want one of those for close-in work, and it's an even worse idea on a bolt-operated rifle. Drop it in favor of an appropriate bipod.
    pa230957.jpg

    Most modern noise suppressors are solid tubes; those with holes are double cylinders.
    nt.jpg
  • Fridock
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    Fridock polycounter lvl 11
    The reddot is something old i did and i just threw it on the sniper rifle, kinda a placeholder atm.
    Here are the tex preview for the green one
    ZoHxN9a.jpg
  • Fridock
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    Fridock polycounter lvl 11
  • RobeOmega
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    RobeOmega polycounter lvl 10
    Hey I created some pictures to make some points about your current UV's
    Pictureone_zps5173ca1d.png
    Picturetwo_zpsdbd2c30f.png
    Okay I did get lazy here and I did not point out everything so lots of things could be doubled up here but oh well sorry :(
    ZoHxN9aE_zps0a889dfb.png
    1) All these 4 can be put into one very little reason to have 4 of these when you can have 1
    2) Could be cut in half vertically or you could even get this into a quarter of the size but then cutting it horizontal
    3) This could be half of what it is if you doubled up
    4) Could be 1/4 of what it is
    5) For each size of box you could put into one box here I would have said 1/4th of size again but those 8 small boxes could be put into one so 1/4 only would be a waste
    6) This cannot be cut horizontally however this could be cut vertically in half
    7) These are almost the same not much need for it to be in two separate pieces
    8 ) All of this could be cut in half horizontally some of it vertically however not the piece with bolts
    9) 1/2 of the size or you could do 1/4 of size if you do the same as you did in 2)
    10) All of these could be just one
    11) Again 4 of these when there could be one
    12) Could at the very least but cut in half vertically
    13) Could again be 1/4 of the size if you follow what I did in the first image
    14) Okay I admit this is where I got bored there is lots of things that could be more optimal in here but I was too bored to go on so I just did a massive shape

    The camo cannot have much done to it because you should not be cutting down unique patterns such as wood, camos ect because it will be too obvious.

    Okay I probably have not made this very clear so you may ask questions :P
  • Fridock
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    Fridock polycounter lvl 11
    Robeomega
    Wow thanks man for the huge breakdown, this is definitely going into my "Tutorial" folder. Have a question tho - wouldn't it mess my the normals map colors if i cut it like that?
    And i did try to make "1)" into one, and it didn't look too well, however there are some parts there i combined into single uv space area, but now i see i could have done much more than that!
  • Fridock
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